I am in the process of re-sealing one of the stabilizer cylinders on my Massey Ferguson 50HX (about 1995 model). This is a side shift machine with vertical stabs. I got the other cylinder repaired "professionally" about a year ago and they butchered everything they could. The main problem being a wire clip that locks the gland nut in place. They said they couldn't remove the wire so they had to cut the top end off my cylinder and completely remake a new one (cost over $1000). So this time I'll look at it myself. The gland nut is in reasonable condition. From the photo you can see the specially shaped hole with the wire clip inside. The parts book shows one end of this wire has a 90° bend in it (and would locate in the gland nut). Question is… how to extract the wire. I'm guessing I should start unscrewing the gland nut until I see an end that I can dig out of that hole. Then extract the wire before undoing the nut any further. But I think the nut would need to turn at the same time and the slotted hole appears to face the wrong way. It looks like a fiddly job. I would appreciate any advice from someone who has worked on these cylinders before. I have a parts book but no service manual. Thanks, Chris Brisbane Australia
Chris, What you described is what you have to do. Spray some WD into hole - that chamfered edge will guide out the wire when you turn the gland nut - you may need to give the wire a little help with a small screwdriver/probe. Hopefully the 90deg end of the wire has a good hole in the gland & will turn the wire OK, that is the problem with this design
Thanks Alrman. So is the gland nut right-hand threaded or left-hand (or not threaded). Reason for asking is that the chamfered hole appears to face the wrong way… to remove the wire I would be turning the gland clockwise (tightening). I have been gradually filling the hole with Inox lube. Thanks again. Chris.
Hi AussieChris, alrman is steering you correctly. Plenty of spray lube. Sometimes rust and corrosion makes the wire get stuck so when you try to turn it, it snaps off the 90 degree bend into the gland, then you have a problem. Simply turn the gland while viewing in hole to make sure wire moves as gland is rotated. If it moves, turn the gland until you see the end of the wire, then turn gland opposite direction while using a small screwdriver to help get wire started out of hole. Once the wire end is out of hole, continue turning gland until the wire is free. There are no threads on gland. But before you do any of this, secure the cylinder in a vise with fittings on bottom. push/pull the rod in and out to remove oil from the cylinder. Then remove wire. Now, give the rod a pull to knock the gland out barrel with piston. Sometimes these things get stuck on burrs inside barrel and you can get it to pull out. I have had to push the rod back in and give it a shot of air on backside of piston to knock these things out. Just make sure you have something to catch the rod when it comes free.
Many thanks to both of you. Now I know the gland is not threaded I have a better idea how to proceed. I would never have thought to "slide hammer" the gland out of the barrel. I'm continuing to soak the joint in penetrating lube and I will make a spanner this weekend, and put some hurt on it then. Will keep you posted.
I owned one of these and they are not a bad hoe. Probably had less money in repairing it than a N.H Taking the spring out was no big deal for me. Like every one said, drain the cyl. Soake it good overnight, ( just put it in a vice, clamped it lightly, put a bucket under it), got a old rag, saturated it with kerosene, a few taps with a brass hammer to losten it up. Turn it clockwise, viewed from rod end till the end of the spring shows, use a pick to sort of lift it up and keep turning. Went to a local hydraulics store and got seals for less than $25. Local shop wanted at least $250 to do it.
Chris ,When you get it out make sure that you examine the grove in both the barrel & gland as they wear,if this the case them the gland moves and damages the o-ring,a quick fix is to spot weld the gland in place.For the reassembly make sure that it is a genuine wire from terex as if the wire is too small it behaves the same. They are a great machine spent many an hour on the 50b,50d 50h/hx /hxs&t,the 60's and 7/860 fermec.
Many thanks to all of you for your advice. I got the cylinder apart on the weekend (had to make a big spanner) and it wasn't too difficult. The main gland/rod seal was stuffed as expected but the rest of it appears to be in reasonable condition. I will be trying to source new seals this week but most places are shut until the new year. Thanks again - will keep you posted. Chris.
Just to let you know I've finished rebuilding the cylinder. Many thanks to all you guys for your advice and encouragement. The job was not that difficult. (Alrman, I got the seals from A&B ok, thanks.) I've attached a final couple of photos to assist anyone else doing the same job. 1st one shows the gland nut tapped back into place with the wire ready to be reinstalled. And the 2nd photo shows the gland rotated and the wire wound almost all the way in. The cylinder has been repainted and I've replaced all the wear pads at the top and bottom of the leg. Ready to go back to work! Happy New Year everyone. Chris Brisbane Australia.
Looks like ya got it all sorted out AussieChris. :wink2 Glad to see you used plenty of grease. I hate to take a cylinder apart after a few years that didn't have any lube applied to it. :Banghead
Aussie Chris , One thing I do on this type cylinder is when finished put a dab of silicone in the groove on the barrel where the wire is to keep water out ..It helps if you ever have to take it apart years later ...
This thread has been a great help for me as I have to reconstruct one of these that was given to me in pieces with the seals removed, I have a new set of seals but there appears to include more than shown above, does anyone have an exploded view of this specific cylinder they can post so I can be sure to get them placed correctly? its for an MF50B but the workshop manual I have shows a different type of ram than the 1605046M93 type that I have shown here. Thanks