I've been looking for a hoe for the past few years. I ended up with a 555 diesel possible A model. Got a pretty good deal on it as well. Machine started easily, no ether or preheating, even at 45 degrees. However it hydrolocked after running it for a half hour last sunday...it ran fine when I shut it off, would not restart the next day.. Machine showed no signs of burning coolant and oil was never milky, however guy said it used some antifreeze, had no idea where it would go though. I am praying this is a head gasket gone south. Machine info: was told it was a '82 555A, How do I verify this before ordering parts? Has the blue "replacement" engine Has 4200 hours, hourmeter works, nothing else electrical does. 2wd with power reverser Questions: How do I verify it is a 555A and where is the serial number? Best place to get parts besides dealer? Aftermarket parts like pistons and sleeves? if it comes down to that. What do you guys think the problem is? Thanks for any help -Mike
I'm also a new owner. Did find some help with parts info/price/ diagrams at www.messicks.com/nhparts/8219.aspx . I would invest in a service manual. Do a google search. I downloaded one for my 555E for $35. Sorry I'm not a mechanic and can be of more help....
I have the service manuals for this machine and there is a section on serial # decal location, if you can't find it. Not sure what you mean by "it hydrolocked after running it for a half hour last sunday...it ran fine when I shut it off". A bad head to block seal or cracked cylinder head, in extreme cases, in my opinion, can lead to a 'hydrolocked engine', upon start-up in the morning, as coolant lays on top of a piston. Coolant can show up in the oil pan from that or other sources, so loosen your oil pan plug and check for coolant. A seeping rad hose/coolant pump will lower your coolant level. Sometimes we can be mislead by what the previous owner says. ATCOEQUIP has summed it up well in the Ditchwitch thread by noting that you need the 3 basics, fuel, air, and heat, for combustion. So when troubleshooting it's best to remember this. Check your fuel supply and power to your injection pump solenoid valve as a start. I don't recall aftermarket engine parts for that 3 cylinder Ford diesel being hard to get. If it starts at 45 deg F., I think that is a good sign. Phil
Could also be a fuel injector leaking into the cylinder causing the hydrolock. First have to confirm which fluid is causing the hydrolock....could be other culprits to ie... something in driveline,clutch, flywheel,starter etc.
Update, We got the head off tonight and as I feared, the center cylinder cavitated, I'm getting a steady stream of coolant from the small hole. Its been running like this for awhile :-( Going to try to talk someone into boring and sleeving the block still in the tractor, and put a new piston and rings in and be down with it. We could have snow next week, and the machine sits outside next to a buddys house. We're hoping we can get it done without losing parts in the snow
Okay, you really do have a problem there. It sounds like you are describing a liner pin hole. Possibly the other 2 liners have similar holes developing. If any coolant has gone into the engine oil, it can cause scuffing damage to the pistons and rings. You will do well to get a new liner pressed in there and level with the deck. I had a 550 once, really liked the machine. The engines are built like a brick outhouse in the fog . It was almost useless in the snow though, I couldn't believe the difference compared to a 580B I had. I suppose one could fit chains to it. Phil
Another Update: Well, I ended up reinstalling the head with new gaskets without fixing the cavitation in the one liner. I plan on playing with it a couple hours before I put it up for the winter. Decided against fixing it right now, as the machine is on the side of a buddys house, with the loader propped up. During the week I'm working on it at night after work with a lead light, on his lawn..and its been dipping into the 20s at night. Come spring time, I'll bring it to my house and pull the engine and have all 3 sleeves done, so its a good reilable machine. I was pretty bummed to find out about the bad sleeve, but am still tickled to own the hoe. It actually fooled us when it hydrolocked, since the hoe started real easy and ran good. The guy I bought it from said he would buy it back within a month if I didnt like it. But running old hoes around here bring big bucks..I saw a old 4500 gasser bring 5500 at an auction. I paid 3000 for this one so looks likes I can afford to put some in it. Thanks for everyones input. This project has just started. -Mike
For $3000 I think you did very well. As I recall my machinist got away with boring out the last Ford engine I took to him. He said the sleeves come out hard, I'm not sure if he welded a bead on them or what he did. After pressing the new sleeves in he said the block has to be machined flat. Sounds like you can do most of the work yourself and save a bundle. I think these machines are one of the best buys out there and the engine certainly the toughest. Phil
Hi Mike; Was browsing backhoe threads and tripped over this one. You want to make sure antifreeze is not collecting in the oil sump. if the pump picks it up it can spin a bearing. seen it a couple of times on different engines. John
Lol, I bought a 1" box end wrench at the flea market 2 weekends ago to leave in the machine, so the drain plug can be cracked before running it. Was thinking the exact same thing you were. I did mark the front pump u joint, so when its pointed up, the bad cylinder is at tdc and cant hydrolock. I did get the oil pressure gauge working the other night as well..has 50 psi around 1000 rpm...seemed pretty good to me. Thanks for posting. -Mike
Mike, I don't know what caused the pin hole in the liner . But I can tell that it is just one reason why I believe anti-freeze should be completely drained and new anti-freeze put back into any machine on a regular basis. The rust inhibitors can only last for a certain period of time. I would also recommend a new thermostat at every coolant change also. It is cheap insurance against a lot of potential problems. Also if you take the engine out to do your overhaul you may want to consider replacing all of the freeze plugs.
I run a 60 series detroit in my volvo. at 1,400,000 miles i took it into a dealer for bearings. it had a pinholed liner also. didn't need bearings. Shop fprman suggested K & W Metallic block sealer used exactly by the directions. It stopped the leak and ran on to 1,650,000 miles, then i sold it. still running a year later. Might be worth a try.
I ran the Bars ceramic head gasket/block sealer. so far so good. Its a temporary fix for me, as the cavitated cylinder has some scuffing and I'd like to sleeve the cylinders and be done with it. Thanks for the reply though, I'm curious to see how far it will go.