I have a 555E backhoe. When I would dig or use the front end loader the motor would bog down and some times die. It's and older unit and was smoking so I had the motor rebuilt. When I got it back it was still doing the same thing and the transmition went out. Thought that might have been the problem. Had it rebuilt and it still doing the same thing. It seems to bog down when in gear and using the hydrolics. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Is your machine 4wd/4x1 bucket/ have extenda-hoe/ does it have the 4 speed shifter on the floor with just the F/R left hand under the steering wheel. First thought would be a inline fuel filter, soft fuel line hose sucking together, screen in the top of lift pump, main fuel/water separator, air filter, turbo issue. Convertor issue. Hyd controls sticking stab levers not returning to center, extenda - hoe lever or pedal sticking or crud on the floor board under it. Does your tach work on the side dash, engine speed no load rpm, hyd system raise loader all the way to the top with engine full speed, what is your rpm while holding it over relief, machine in 4th gear and brakes set, place in forward and ease engine to full rpm, what is your rpm. Last a combo trans in 4th and loader full raise, machine in forward what is your rpm with the machine wide open, this is a trans/hyd stall. Service brake needs to hold machine and do not do this test for more than 5-10 seconds with the machine at operating temp
We had the same problem on 555. Smoked no power trying to load with front bucket. Put in a rebuilt motor. Same problem. It was the torque converter. What sucked was the dealer looked at the converter while the engine was out and said it was ok.:Banghead
Its the 555E 2x4 four speed in the floor with F/R on the steering wheel. Ive replaced the soft fuel lines from tank to pump and return line. I do have a temp gauge that works but its not over heating. The tach also works. When it bogs down is after its warmed up and if it dies it has to sit before it will start. Once its cooled down it will fire right up. None of my lever are sticking. Did have that problem but had it fixed. I will check my rpm when i get a chance later to day.
That tells me it's a fuel issue, not a transmission/hydraulic issue. Does it blow black smoke (or any smoke) as it's bogging down? Is this an intermittent problem or does it bog down whenever you use the hydraulics under load?
It doesnt seem to do it untill it warms up. I havent run it alot yet but its not smoking.
It has a new fuel filter and I replaced the rubber fuel lines. It also has a secondary in line fuel pump that the previous owner had put on it. Both fuel pumps seem to be working as they shoud.
If it's intermittent, then drain the tank and suck out the garbage that's in there, or clean the screen. Some injection pumps will die when the return is blocked, can't tell you if your's does though.
Thanks, Ill give it a shot and let you.
Drained the tank. Had a little crud not bad. Cleared the lines and checked the filters all seem good. When it starts it sounds good. If I hold the front end loader lever to the point where it stops the moor bogs and will die if I don't let off. I have a smaller John Deer and when it gets to that point it sounds like the hydrolics bypass. On my 555E it will kill the motor.
Sorry, I thought for sure it would be fuel related if it wouldn't start again until it cooled off. Sheepfoot or others will be along with better ideas.
Ok that explains the issue more clearly. So some questions. Are you giving it full throttle or half throttle? Biggest question does it smoke while doing this?
I ran it full throttle and when it bogs down it white smokes a bit
Let me ask this. If you put it in gear against a pile at full throttle without moving the bucket what does it do?
I will try that when I can get back to it. It rained today and it's on some property that I own east of Dallas
Did you remove the screen from the fuel pump and clean it, the fuel pump has a single screw in the top cover. Loosen the screw and remove the cover, once removed take the screen out and clean. The gaskets will most likely not want to reseal, but I would pull that screen and check it after it quits to see how much crud is stuck to it. It may just need to be cleaned. Also how long have you had this machine?. When did the problem start ?. How many hours have you put on the machine since you owned it ?.
I pushed up against a tree and the back tire spin in the dirt.
Still baffled. When it died after using the hydrolics it would start. Sprayed starter fluid and it starts and runs until it runs out of starter fluid
Did you clean the screen in the lift pump?
I didn't see a screen in the pump. Only the filer under it. Where would it be?
The 555E here has a lift pump ( looks like a regular gas engine fuel pump ) mounted on the rh side of the engine away from the injection pump. It has a round cover on top with a single screw, remove the screw and remove the top and there is a strainer filter inside that may have crud inside that sticks to the screen while running and drops the crud after it sits a little allowing it to restart until the crud starves it again. You may have a newer machine with a different pump but the parts book also shows it for this machine.
I ran against a large tree and the back tires spun. When I used the hydrolics the motor died. It wouldn't start so I used starter fluid. I started till that ran out and died again. Sometimes when I first start it, it will white smoke and barely run then after a minute or so it will run right. I took the lift pump off and apart found no screen or anything stuck in it. Could this be and injector pump issue? I have had a number of people say they thought it was a fuel problem but I'm running out of things it could be. Fuel tank has been cleaned. All rubber fuel lines replaced lift pump was checked and has new filter. Has an inline fuel pump as a booster. Also,after it dies it will turn over a couple of tries then it's like the battery looses power and will barley turn it over. I just replaced the battery and it still does the same thing. This tractor has got me crazy.
I would also run a fused hot wire to the fuel pump shut off valve, remove the wire and install a temp wire from the battery with a fuse and switch. Tape up the end of the wire removed. Turn the switch on and start as normal and see if it dies while testing. If it dies remove the wire, remove the shut off valve and take the spring and plunger out and try again to see if it dies. Does your return to dig work on the loader along with the self leveler system?. Is all the linkage free and not binding back to the loader control valve?. You will need to look at the fire wall to the rear around the valve cover height. On the alt side, you will see three test ports for the hyd system. You will need to get a quick connect /hose / and two gauges. One 500 psi and one around 5000 psi. The top port is loader, middle is steering, lower is backhoe. You will need to check the pressure on the loader relief valve more than likely also to see if it's been jacked up. I would do those simple fuel shut of tests, also recheck all ground straps from the battery, frame to frame. Return to dig operation, depending on if the bucket is dumped while raising or rolled back, same with lowering could put it in a hyd stall and kill the engine. Last you may need to pick up some test gauges, I can walk you thru the test and give you the rpms and pressures so you know what you have. Did you ever write down the numbers on the rpm/stall info that I asked you about.
Sorry it took so long to get back. Found out the problem was the injector pump timing was off. Had to put it in the shop and they were able to figure it out within a day. I was expecting a lot worse. This was the best result that I could have been after going through everything. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Someone help me understand how injection pump timing caused the engine stall when using the hydraulics but not driving the wheels ? Seems to me the problem would be in both cases. Does the transmission change the pump timing ?
I am just curious about a couple of things. When the engine was rebuilt was the fuel injection pump removed ? If it was did you have it rebuilt by a professional re-builder ?
I hired an older guy that has a small outfit that does repair on site. I pulled the motor and left with him. I was cofindant in him until I met his wife. Lots of drama between the two. Anyway he rebuilt it and said he put the timing where it was supposed to be. We now know that was wrong. I just happy it's over with. My neighbor recommended him is why I used him. I later asked him how long he has used him and he said never. Just saw his add in the local paper. I will ask more questions on a referral next time. I think the mechanic was good but his personal issues got in the way.
Thanks for letting us know what happened. I was sure wondering what the real problem was.