I tried to order seal kits from my case dealer and they told me to look on the gland for a part number which would tell me whether I have the split piston or the one-piece - my glands (see pics) have the groove, but no part# - I did read from a different PARTS SOURCE that Some of the split piston cylinders have a machined groove in the face of the gland - unfortunately they do not state whether or not a machined groove is positive proof .. can anyone verify? - much thanks.
I had the same problem. If the part number isn't stamped on the gland the only sure way to find out which pistons are in the cylinders is to pull them out of BOTH cylinders.
ok tink, my next question would be how do I isolate the cylinders? from outside, it's hard to see where everything is routed - thanks for your reply
Swing the boom to either the extreme right or left and loosen the hose that goes to the base of the cylinder barrel that you now have access to. You have to loosen that hose to allow the rod assembly to come out. Unscrew the gland (don't forget to remove the lock screw on it) then take the pin out of the rod eye and pull the rod and piston out. There is no need to remove the cylinders from the machine. Remember to not allow the new packing to slide over the barrel threads when you reinsert the rod assembly. I learned the hard way what can happen to that nice new piston packing.
Still do not see how to keep from losing all my hydraulic fluid once the barrel is open and the rod & piston are out - also how to keep the packing from scraping the threads - I didn't have a problem a couple years ago when I re-sealed the dipper cylinder :beatsme
Tom, you will only lose a small amount of hydraulic oil, the oil in the cylinder and the oil in the lines. The swing cylinder spools in the valve body will be at rest and centered creating a closed system as far as any oil migrating from the supply and return circuit. To prevent the packing from sliding across the barrel threads I use a piece of plastic that I cut from the side of a one gallon water or milk bottle and lay it on the lower half of the thread circumference. It thin and tough enough to allow the packing to slide over it. Don't lay it in any further than the threads or you will have problem getting the piston into the barrel.
Ok Tink, it was not too bad - however, I now have a new problem - was not expecting the spring loaded pin .. I do not have a deep well socket or a 1 13/16 box wrench .. looks like I could use a 1 7/8 but don't have that either - will have to go get one or the other - what's the reason for the spring
Think - What do you think of THIS KIT from HERE ?
Tom, that pin is part of the cushion assembly for the swing function. It prevents abrupt and violent stops when you quit swing the boom. Be sure to put it back together the way it is now. I use a 3/4 inch drive regular socket and just let the pin stick out. Then the 18 inch pipe wrench comes out with a 5 foot cheater pipe on the handle. It chews up the socket but it gets the job done. In regards to that kit, I don't know if that is the correct one. Personally, I but my kits from the local Case dealer. They are about the same price and he has the factory parts book to get it right. Besides I want to see CNH in business for a long time.
OK, it worked pretty good Tink .. even with a 14" wrench I hardly had to lean on it - will close everything up and probably get the parts next week - I do not use it much, mostly just to move snow, or if a tree comes down, so no rush .. thanks a bunch :drinkup
Looks good Tom. When you put that nut back on lean on the pipe somewhat. It sounded like it came off a little too easy.
Brake cleaner.... dry.... loctite... TIGHT... yup.