Hey Guys. It's great to see that good 580b info is flowing even in the absence of Phil - I hope all is well for him and send my thanks for all that he has shared - ATCO too. I am trying to fix the right brake on a 580b. To access the top two bolts (1), it looks like I must remove the differential lock unit (2). After disconnecting the diff lock lever (3) and removing the housing bolts and allen from the differential lock the housing will rotate slightly, but won't move far enough out to get anything behind it to pry - not even a screwdriver. Can the top bolts to the brake housing (1) be removed without removing the differential lock? [*)Do I need to pull the shaft (4) out of the differential housing? Can I pry on the differential housing without worrying about damaging something internal? Thank you.
Been a long time i will try, try to move the lock cover up it has a yoke that fits in a groove in a slide gear
The problem you have is that the sliding collar for the diff lock is siezed to the cross shaft - unusual as they usually leak a little oil........ You won't slide the yoke off the collar as the collar will hit the side of the housing. Trying to remove the top bolts of the brake cover won't make much difference, as the seized collar will retain both covers. (but it may give you a better leverage point to pry both covers together) To remove the #4 shaft, can't be done without pulling the diff lock either. You need to pry the cover off - try to get something either side of the cover to give it some tension & try a sharp hit onto the housing. I often use a couple of old 3/8" wood chisels that will slip into almost anywhere.
dumb question A lot of people don't see the recessed allen head bolt out of the front of the cover, I see you have it loose. That cover should almost fall off, no need to pry. All that can hold it internally is the fork pads in the sliding collar. If all the bolts are out it should be loose as it is not doweled for locating the cover. If the shaft is trusted fast in the cover it could keep it back tight, soak it up with PB blaster or your favorite and see if you can turn the engagement shaft. Mel
I appreciate the useful information that all of you gave and particularly the detail alrman. Chisels worked great - I just had to start with a really sharp one to get into the tiny crack. It was dry as a bone in there. Doesn't look like it got one drop of oil in its 35 years. Sorry you thought this a dumb question Mel, but I'd rather ask one than feel really stupid buying and a hard-to-find and expensive part because I didn't know 'the trick'. Here are more pics for anyone who would like a peek inside a differential lock.
Sorry you misunderstood my title, I meant that it was probably a dumb question to ask if you seen the recessed allen bolt on my part but I had to ask cause I have had several calls over my career of 50 yrs now working on these tractors and taken calls from those who did not find the allen bolt till it was pointed out to them. I did see however that you had it backed out. I have consistently told people over the years that the only dumb questions are the ones that people are afraid to ask. I hope that I have not offended you or please accept my sincere regrets for the misunderstanding. I will certainly be looking forward to adding info in the future that may be helpful. Being a jerk to fellow forumers is just not my style. Mel
Yeah buddy...with all our smarts and engineering skills, we develop products like Lock Tite to keep components in place. But it's hard to find anything that will seize something as tight as Gods original Lock Tite... Rust.
No worries Mel - just a simple misunderstanding. Those are easy with only typed words. I appreciate you sharing from 50 years experience. This is my first piece of heavy equipment and truth be told, I probably will ask a dumb (or at least simple) question or two, but I will do that happily for the reason stated above and to hopefully help out some fellow newbies too. Speaking of which - the allen that Mel mentioned being easily missed is the one poking out just below and left of the shaft labeled #4 in the second pic of post 1. Mine was 1/4". Atco - Ain't that the truth. I'm from Oregon. Aluminum could rust here. ...now onto brakes.