I am rebuilding this hoe assembly. I have it off the tractor. The self aligning bushings on the stabilizers are floppy and worn out. Are these suppose to be fairly tight? I can probably make new ones with a ball attachment for my lathe. Also where the hoe frame hooks to the bottom of the loader frame has the 2 lower pins worn badly. These are short ones welded in. I can probably make these as well but do these pins really matter? I have 4140 steel but I know welding 4140ht is tricky.
Well I am surprised that no one responded to this. These bushings are available from ebackhoe parts as a complete unit. They have to be torched or ground out with a grinder and welded in. The case parts website only shows the inner ball. But this place has the complete enchilida for $50 each. Just an fyi.
Those upper bushings should be tight in their holes. Only the pins should be moving in the bushings. It looks like you will need to weld in new bushings on the lower end of the stabilizer. Seems strange that it never had replaceable bushings there. OR is it the stabilizer pad pin that has worn out their holes ? In regards to the loader frame pins; they will only get worse if you don't fix them also.
It is the bushings in the frame that are worn out. When I spoke to Dale at e-backhoe he said he did not know why case did not install replaceable bushings there. I will have to grind and torch these. Far as the pins that are welded in I can machine new ones and weld them in also.
Dale knows the Case backhoes inside-out. He is a true expert when it comes to parts and solutions for repairs. None of those pins should be welded in anywhere. Is it the ref #5 or #7 bushings that are worn out ? It appears Case used two different style bushings there. One style may be pressed in and the other welded. It most likely depends on the serial number range of the backhoe frame. Dale may be able to find (ref #16) pins for you that are drilled and tapped for grease zerks.
Number 5 bushing is suppose to be a spherical bushing in a bore to allow it to swivel. I have two 580c`s and one has two holes on the other end of the shaft and the other has only one. I guess this was so that you could move the outrigger to another position. Yes these are welded in. And the pins that I am talking about are on the bottom of that frame assembly (not visible) that hooks into the loader frame slots. These are badly worn. I really dont know that matters or not. I can make new ones, oversize of course but not sure if the slack there affects anything. These are also welded in.
@ Tinkerer .... your confusing us all with the wrong pictures - Since there are not too many centremounts round here, I must say I was a little confused myself....
Well I made a mistake . OOPS. I do see the welded in pins. They are just above the number 5 in the picture.
Sorry. Misinformation is worse than no information.
Hi guys, i am replacing a self aligning bushing on the stabilizer cylinder tube. Took it out of the box and it has a notch and small crack on it. Not sure if this is supposed to be there? These are held in with snap rings. Bushing is #3
The notch is for grease, the small crack could be a problem. while I’m not familiar with those types of movable joints in that application, I think it was a novelty idea that nobody ended up using. Still, a better idea than my 580 SE that had no bushings in the stabilizer arm and had to be welded up and machined.
Hi Harley Broken tractor rep says the crack is intentional so the self aligning section can be inserted in the bushing. It allows the bushing to expand. Thanks for the reply
Also the notch i was referring to is the tiny one where the crack starts. It is not the groove for the grease. Its hard to see
Makes sense. How else would they get it together. lol
Oh the notch is where it’s radial, it can pivot. Is that what you mean. I have a friend that has that type stabilizer, tried help him move it one time, couldn’t get it without a pressure washer and a lot of PB Blaster. Never moved again, as far as I know.
If you look at the middle photo,the outside circumference is the bushing.The inner section is sort of a "swivel" that moves to align the pin.If you look at 12 o clock on the inside edge of the bushing you will see a small notch the leads to the crack.It is hard to see in the photo but it is basically a tiny notch.I attatched a generic picture showing the entire bushing with the center "swivel. If you notice the small holes on the bushing grease track and on the inside of the swivel??? There are 2 on the bushing and 2 on the swivel.should those line up with the grease fitting that is on the cylinder tube?or will the grease find its way in there on its own?
correct. I am wondering if I sould take the swivel piece out before pressing in the bushing, or will it be a nightmare getting the swivel back in the bushing once it is in?
I have a few of those spherical type bushings for other things and to my knowledge, you will never get them apart without ruining them. Some are designed with flat spots that are supposed to come apart but these are not that, by the looks. Grease does matriculate around the housing, that’s what the channel is for and the small holes lubricate the roller but it generally doesn’t work well, in my opinion. I am surprised that they used that type of bushing for that type of application as I can’t see it lasting to long or work correctly. Again, I helped move the stabilizers once with a friend and it wasn’t easy at all.
That type of spherical bushing is very common on lots of equipment requiring articulation of assemblies. Both parts are hardened. Some have seals on each side. DO NOT heat them. They have to be pressed in. They should be an interference fit. The grease holes do not have to be aligned but the grease hole in the ear has to align with the radial groove in the bushing
And yes, they can be broken during assembly- then they are throwaway. There is usually a parting line in the outer race. They should be installed by pressing on the outer race only
Thanks guys, I will most likely use an old socket or pipe that will sit only on the outer circumference to press them in.