I have a Case 580c that will not stay running. It runs for a couple of minutes and then dies. when you start it back up, it does the same thing, runs for a few minutes and then dies. I have replaced both fuel filters, did not find any clogs in fuel lines from the tank to the filters, from filters to pump, pump screen is also clear. no clog in fuel return line. someone suggested putting an electric pump on to feed fuel to filters from tank, did this, but found no change. pulled air filter, no change. engine runs fine, but stalls after a few minutes, seems like lack of fuel. does anyone have any suggestions as to where to go from here. replacing the pump is really expensive, and would hate to spend the money just to find out that wasn't the problem. Thanks, James
Silly test, loosen the fuel cap.... or take it off even if nothing can fall in. If the cap can't vent into the tank then it more or less pulls a vacuum and fuel won't flow.
I fought with a diesel Tracmobile half the winter and it all straightened out when I got in a new load of fuel. Whodathunk?
Make sure and check the fitting on top of the injector pump, there *is* a check ball in this fitting if *any* debris gets in the fitting it WILL shut the motor down when pressure rises because of the blockage. The blockage is usually caused by small pieces of the pumps seals wearing out...
What Ronsii describes is what ultimately happened to my 580d.
Are the filters full or empty after it quits running ? Can you reach high idle ?
Remove the return fitting from the top of the pump.. [check valve] NOT just the line, but the entire fitting.. Now start the engine.. if it runs and doesn't shut off, its a "flex ring" problem.. inside the pump. Let us know what happens..
scottAR: tried what you suggested with the fuel cap, still doesn't want to run...same results as before
at thepumpguysc: removed the return fitting (check valve) and it will run and could accelerate it. when i put the check valve back in, it ran for a couple of minutes and then it died. when i restarted it, the time that it would run seemed to be less than that and each time after it would be less and less, could not accelerate. what is the purpose of the return check valve, and can the backhoe be ran without it? checked the ball inside the fitting, and there does not appear to be any debris in there.
removed the return fitting (check valve) and it will run and could accelerate it. when i put the check valve back in, it ran for a couple of minutes and then it died. when i restarted it, the time that it would run seemed to be less than that and each time after it would be less and less, could not accelerate. what is the purpose of the return check valve, and can the backhoe be ran without it? checked the ball inside the fitting, and there does not appear to be any debris in there.
Its a VERY COMMON problem.. The pump maker put a "plastic" ring inside the pump that deteriorates over time.. In a pinch, you could remove the check valve and smash the glass ball and spring out of it, using a hammer and punch.. THIS IS NOT A FIX !!! it will get you going in a pinch.. The FLEX RING is broken and the pump needs to be repaired.. Why it shuts down is>> the small pieces of flex ring clog the check valve, blocking the return fuel.. housing pressure builds and overcomes INLET FUEL PRESSURE.. If you cant get fuel OUT, you cant get fuel IN.. If your going with the hammer/punch method remember>> all those "plastic" pieces are going back to the tank and will cause problems later on.. ALSO, the ring keeps 2 metal pieces from smashing into each other.. once its broken the 2 pieces start hitting each other and eventually will shear off.. then you have a run-away engine.. The pump/engine needs to be timed before you pull the pump for repair.. IF you need help, just shout.. TPG
can i rebuild the pump myself? or do you know of someone else who can do it for me? or am i better off just buying a new/rebuilt one? the new/rebuilt ones cost any where from 1100 to 2000 with the core charge.
I'll shoot you an email..
Over the past couple of weeks my 580c started doing the same thing. I fallowed thepumpguysc advice and it did help. I would like to know if you could send me the info for rebuilding the pump myself that you sent jriddle99 for rebuilding them. Thanks, Dave
NO.. I don't do internet rebuilds.. You can smash the ball out to get the machine to a shady place & pull the pump.. I'd be happy to do the rebuild for ya.. {cheap} Just incase it needs to be said.. Take the fitting OFF the pump before you smash the ball & spring out..
That would work for me, in the thread, you said the engine and pump have to be timed before you pull the pump, do you know the procedure for this? I am still looking for my shop book, it got misplaced in a move. please let me know, Dave
Shut off the fuel or pinch the line.. Remove the side cover on the inj. pump.. the pumps gonna be full of fuel until it drains out..{can or bucket handy} Under the cover you'll see a stationary line.. thers another one in there that rotates. Rotate the engine by hand until the 2 lines meet & stop.. pump timing done. Please post the #'s off the name plate {1st line}
You can download it here -----> https://www.minnpar.com/manuals4.as...als&SSFName=CASE 580CK MODEL C SERVICE MANUAL
Hello to all, I am new to this forum. I have a 1977 580c extendahoe. I put 5 gallons of fuel in, quit after 15 minutes, and now will only run for a minute at a time. Drained all fuel, replaced filters, checked inlet screen at IP all clear. Good flow of fuel to the IP. Found what looks like coffee grounds in the return line check valve from the IP, must have a bad flex ring. I have ordered a rebuild gasket kit that comes with the one piece weight cage that eliminates the flex ring. The injection pump is a Roosa Master (Stanadyne) DBO431AJ3205. I am hoping to find a service manual for this pump, but can only find DM, D2 and other pumps. Does anyone here have a manual for a DBO4 pump, or somewhere I could find one? I need all the torques and specs and diagrams.
The DBO is just the superseded part number for the DBGFCC #.. If ur gonna try it yourself.. u need a DB2 & a DB manual.. They really screwed up w the manuals.. There’s only 3 torques u need & only 2 are important.. The END PLATE IS 30-35inlbs The DELIVERY VALVE is 90 inlbs. & the cam ball screw is 300-350inlbs.. u GOTTA HAVE the special tool & bushing to remove & install the cam screw.. or IT WILL BREAK. Don’t say nobody warned u... Good luck.. & remember, we ALL charge more if the pump comes in disassembled..
I had my brother in laws back hoe do this his was a 1966 case 530 it wound up being the linkage on injection pump was loose and the the cable was only moving just enough to where it would only get enough fuel to stay running for just a minute then die we tightened it back up and runs great now
Thank you for your quick reply thepumpguysc! Could you please give me a link to find the special tool and bushing for the cam screw, and a DB2 and DB manual?
For all you would be DIY pump repairmen, Thepumpguy is THE place to send it. Either before you screw it up or after (cost more then, but oh well) And he takes bad checks without a lot of whining. Joe H
Hi Dave If you need to get your bh pump rebuilt use TPG does good work and is resonable
THANX for the plug fellas, it means alot.. The thing about doing it yourself is>> either u have all the information or u dont.. if u DONT, its not a diy project.. Speciality fuel shops PAY BIG MONEY to have ALL the information at their finger tips.. & years of schooling.. its really not a diy project.. U "might" be able to get it to work... & u "might" blow up your engine.. Theres a few videos on utube.. from western truck or something like that.. but he doesnt know what hes doing either.. from a professional standpoint... I couldnt watch it.. I lasted 2 minutes.. I think he posted a link here?? somewhere?? Try over at Tractor forum.. I know he posted the vid there.. It was for a JD pump.. same diff.. ..good luck & feel free to email me after u get to a stoppng point.. BTW.. a kit & a weight retainer are only 2 parts outta 10 that u need for a proper job..
OK, so I got the special tool and bushing from US Diesel, cam screw cam out just fine (couple sharp raps with a pin punch). Pump is apart, and full of the governor flex ring crumbles. I can see the where the crumbs were plugging up the return check valve, and probably causing my engine shut down after 1 minute. Got the one piece 29111 weight cage, rebuild seal kit, pilot bushing is badly scored inside, so I got a new one. I ordered a pilot tube mandrel and installation spacer, to press the new pilot tube in (Marco at US Diesel is most helpful). I have a couple questions: 1. Is there an alternative to the A-12 #46739 epoxy for installing the pilot bushing? I see on the data sheet that this is a 2:3 ratio mix, with a high temperature rating of 82*C (179.6*F). I presume that is 2 parts catalyst to 3 parts resin, to extend working time? I have checked several places, out of stock. The quantities sold would be good for dozens of pilot bushings, I only need to do one. Does anyone know of an epoxy that I could purchase at the local auto parts, that would work for this application? 2. My return check valve seems to be the wrong thread size, or cross threaded by a previous owner. Is there more than one size of check valve for this pump? I found a number stamped into the mounting flange of the pump that reads "5 27 87". Is this a Stanadyne number, or was this pump maybe rebuilt on that date? What size is it supposed to be, 1/8" npt? Thanks for any help you could give me.
I have a 530ck that is having the exact same problem. It runs good and strong for a few minutes then dies. How much do you charge to service this type of problem because I would rather pay someone that knows what they are doing rather try to do it myself and have my engine runaway to another demension.
Tony.. click on my screen name on the left side of the page for contact info..
That's pretty funny.
at thepumpguysc, I'm in the same boat as some of the rest of these guys. I'm new at this forum thing too. I'm pretty sure the pump on my 580C needs a rebuild, are you still in the business of rebuilding. I'd rather have some one who knows what they are doing. Thanks
Still in business.?? That’s funny.. I TRIED to retire once.. it didn’t go as planned.. There was to many customers who wouldn’t take NO for an answer.!! So YES I’m still going strong..working 7 days a week.. to keep everyone happy..(except the wife) U can contact me directly at:: [email protected] in your home mail service..
Welcome to HEF, SouperCooper !
SuperCooper..... 2 good moves... #1 joining this forum #2 getting the PumpGuy to rebuild your IP.. and welcome aboard!
TPG are you still rebuilding pumps? need one rebuilt.
Yes.. Contact me directly, either prvt msg or email.
I think I am having this issue too. I haven't opened the injector pump and I am a little bit worried... I don't know how to time the injector pump and that is scaring me. Can you give a better description on the check valve? Can I pull that top cover and clean it? And what should I use?
There are timing instructions all over the web.. And at least 300x on this forum.