Any advice on keeping this boom cylinders outer seal seated? Aside from rebuilding it. Thanks
Drill and tap four small holes (1/4) in the head around the seal and use body washers and bolts to hold the seal in place
How ever you can do it will just be a bandaid, and we all know bandaids are for temporary use, and have a possibility of causing more problems when it is rebuilt later.
Actually used to do this to D9/D10 ripper cylinders as part of the cylinder rebuild It was done to stop the seal coming out and causing problems
If the seal is coming out then something is worn to the point which needs replaced. Was the ripper cylinder rebuilt for a customer or for the company you worked for?
Cylinders were for the company I worked for Had a lot of problems in the past with wiper seals coming out of housings that we're not worn (ripper cylinders only) Became standard procedure for the company to use bolts and body washers to retain the wiper seal We're sent to the machine shop to be drilled and tapped and then installed at assembly Company had over thirty dozers I know it may sound dodgy to you but it was tried and tested ofer a period of years Fergy
bucyrus631, You really should put a new seal in that cylinder. Just because you re-seat it doesn't mean it will seal the water out. Your gland seal may be the worse for wear already from it not being seated and holding a good seal. If the new seal comes out then maybe anchor it as suggested already.
Fergy Does not sound dodgy at all! Now if you want to make it look even better, if there is room have shop machine the bore just a bit deeper then cut a groove for a snap-ring! I believe I have worked on some Cat cylinders that come that way from factory. Drilling and taping the holes on an assembled cylinder will require a steady hand but could be done. Another option that might work if it can be cleaned very good would be to clean it with brake-kleen and then prime with Loc-tite primer then apply some Loc-tite bearing mount and tap in and let set over night. Just be careful to not get the Loc-tite down in the rod bore! Usally when I reseal one with a wiper like this I install the wipers with the bearing mount, sees to work very good.
Thanks for all of the great responses. This is old but goodie, only used on my property. Don't have a spanner or a setup to tackle a big cylinder like that. Only have air and impact guns. The others I've sent out were $350- $450 each labor alone and we're smaller, they gotta hone and paint, pressure test..... Im going to try cleaning real well and try some sealant just to hold it in place. That probably won't do much other than keeping it out of sight. Lol. Hopefully in the future I'll be able to fix it correctly. I was thinking maybe a little silicone to hold it but I should try the loctite as suggested.
I'd clean it real good then slide the seal/wiper down till it touches the head it goes in and then put the Loc- tite on the seal and wiper and tap it in. Doing this way should keep the Loc-tite from getting into the area below the seal/wiper. If when it is all the way in the cyliner head there is some of the bore showing around the top side you could use a punch to peen the head around the wiper a little to help hold it in. Just don't swing crazy and damage the chrome rod or you will be cussing me out big time.
Hi kshansen Yeah loctite is what seals I put in cylinders now get This had been tried by the company but was unsuccessful While drilling and tapping or even loctiting will not fix the problem here Returning that seal to its proper position will stop any further ingress IF the seal is not RS And the housing is clean Fergy
Warm weather almost here. I'll be giving it a shot this week using the "wifes" hammer on it. I'll be back to report on it. Thanks again everyone!
So, did your fix work on this? The warm weather has been and gone here in NW MT, winter is getting ready to pounce again judging by the size of my neighbor's woodpile...[-:
seals Hi. Unfortunately, no. I forgot all about it. Ill try again next spring.