Found a running 580CK in a barn, just had to buy it . Seemed a good deal at the time but now I'm not so sure. Been working on her as time permits, but there seems to be one problem after another. The hoe leaked real bad, I decided to pull it off to get a better look. Picture shows her just detached from the hoe. Then there was the left loader cylinder leak, so much oil came out of the gland, I left a pail under it every time I shut it off. The cab mounts were all broken, and she has what I always figured was the ugliest of the 3 common cab styles. The shuttle won't release so there's no hope of changing gears without shutting it off. Shuttle gauge pressure falls off when warm. Surprisingly the left brake does work a little, and the hydraulic oil looks very clean To be continued....Phil
Good thing you got here out of there. It looks like she has a lot of life left. What do you figure causes the shuttle pressure to drop? That cab would look so much better if they didn't angle the front portion forward.
I was actually able to fill the loader bucket with clay, quite a tough machine despite all that is wrong with it. She's a proud old girl, kinda felt sorry for her .The loader arm pivots are real sloppy. I located another CK loader frame, with no welds on it, for $200. Split the tractor and found a nice wad of debris blocking the pump screen. Took the shuttle assembly completely apart and found lots of broken clutch springs, all 12 of them. Cutting down some springs(MCM 9434K95) from McMaster Carr to .900"OL and placing the cut end in the hole. Should of got custom made springs that have both ends ground flat, but I think these will work okay, the originals were .410" OD and wire size .062". Phil
Got the shuttle back together. Replaced 2 clutch discs damaged by the broken springs. Put a new seal kit in it, also 3 new sealing rings on the mainshaft. The 'quad' rings that seal the shuttle pump to the adaptor plate are no longer available, so I used a metric o-ring that really filled the grove. Took the seat off, then diff cover and things don't look good inside. Phil
A couple more shuttle pictures. Installed a new seat and decided to pull the cover off. This is where I got the feeling I should have left it there in the barn. Diff fluid had a nice pink tint to it and the viscosity of hydraulic oil. One side gear had chipped teeth and the carrier has lots of side play. One final gear moves in and out 1/2".Phil
Well, look at the bright side phil...at least there's gears in there. :tong Won't be long you'll have it fixed up and painted and someone will buy it from ya, ugly cab and all. :yup
Ha, ha, at least it's a Case.
That's the machine I learned on 30+ years ago and it was ugly then. Good luck.
When I replace a hose on my old 69 580CK I feel like I am "working on it".....Your ability to fix em up is incredible. I would sure like to have that experience and ability. They deserve saving and you sure do em proud. I like the pictures and details as i try and learn as much real life stuff about them as I can. They are not like old cars or trucks as we did not grow up working on them so every bit of real experience really helps guys like me. You keep up the good work! We love it!
Took the brake assemblies off, both were soaked in oil and one cover had been welded in several places. Located a used cover and ordered it along with new lining from A&I. Ordered some new springs for the brake bands, and seals for the carrier bearing holders. Removed the carrier/crown assembly and cleaned the diff housing out. Removed the front cover(see pic) to replace the 2 main-shaft oil seals. Tightened the pinion shaft nut 3/4 turn to take the end play out of the shaft, and repeened the locknut. Added a shim to tighten the mainshaft bearings. The old carrier had some worn spider gears and the crown was loose on it's rivets. One sidegear had chipped teeth. Swapped them out with a carrier and sidegears from a 530 tractor. Replaced the fiber washers with the updated steel ones, selecting the 'thinnest' of several available(about .085") to get the right sidegear backlash. Installed a new .010" washer, on the inside next to the carrier. Phil
I hope I never have to see all of those gears and clutches in my 580ck, but so far my machine has had similiar problems as others here have. First was water in the crankcase, new sleeve seals solved that. I noticed my loader frame is cracked at the horizontal stiffener, haven't fixed yet...
Welcome diezelnut:drinkup:drinkup I'm lucky to have found a replacement loader frame with no welds on it. My first CK, about 25 years ago, was cracked and patched up there. I replaced the center piece and added another piece of rectangular tubing closer to the bucket. Phil
Installed new seals in the carrier bearing housing. I'm using the housings from the 530 farm tractor to keep the bearings matched. Installed new axle seals too. Installed the carrier assembly and removed enough shims to get a slight drag on the carrier. Switched shims from side to side to bring the backlash down to the spec. Last picture shows setting the backlash between the crown and pinion. Yes they are now mismatched. Tooth contact pattern turned out looking good. The old girl might be around for a while yet. Phil
Hi Phil I haven't got back to my 580B since you pointed me in the right direction for some parts and you working on another machine already. I wish I were there as well,I just haven't had the time lately. Good pictures and descriptions, I will definitely use some of this info later on. John :drinkup
Thank you Singletree. Installed the final drive gears and put the cover back on, with the new seat. Installed a new fan belt while the pump was off. The hydraulic pump was corroded so bad on the bottom that the housing o-ring was hanging out. Replaced it with a used pump I had. Had to buy a new coupling from Case. The generator did work but it's difficult to remove, so I decided to replace it with an alternator, and lose my tach drive. If anyone needs a generator, tach drive/cable, and new regulator, for a restoration, let me know. Hour meter currently shows only about 800 hours. Phil
Hi Phil, thank you for taking your own time to enlighten me, a mere mechanically impaired mortal. I have to work on my 580SE since it won't go forward anymore. It will only go reverse after I gaz it for a couple of seconds. Do you think I could have broken springs in the shuttle assembly? Thanks Pierre
Hi all, I bought a 1973 580b as a retirement project.I didn't know I was buying a full time job I enjoy the challenge and twisting a few wrenches.It is great that there is a place like this to come and find out a solution to a headbanger. Phil,I saw the pic(great pics by the way)of your hydraulic pump and I got to ask how the heck do you hang onto the crank pulley and get a wrench in there to remove the bolts?
As I recall, if the pump won't slide out of the splined adapter, then the 4 bolts holding the pump drive to the crank pulley will have to be removed. Then the whole assembly will slide forward right out the front. The 7/16" bolts usually come loose easily; get a long 5/8"box wrench and give it a little tap if needed. Working between the rad and the engine is a pain on a B model, but once off, it can be re-bolted through the front, assuming the splined adapter is separated from the pump. I have to update this thread, been very busy this summer . Phil
Thanks Phil, I changed out the alternator and the alternator frame was slightly different which lead the belt to be too long and I ran out of adjustment room.I was trying to change the v belt to one slightly smaller.I got the hydraulic pump loose but the dang splined shaft was not coming out.Tried the bolts on the adapter and they were not moving without the crank turning.I wasn't sure if that was the way to go.:beatsme So I moved the alternator adjustment bar to a location a little higher on the water pump which gave me more travel to tighten the belt.The belt was good just too long.Now works as it should. I thank you for the assistance and will file that away for when I really have to change it. Cheers,Gary
Hi I have a brake problem. Left side works but need to put new brake pads on. I bought some off ebay Right side had oil on pads. Took off diferecheral lock and brakes. Took philips screw out pulled hub plate out. Lots of fluit came out fast. I did not realize I should have drained it first. I see I need an o ring, a seal in the hub and some seal inside? how do I get too this one. Do I need to take off the top diferenchal cover like some of the the pichures in this thread Case dealer wants 25.30 for seal a39273 seal in the hub I can see does this seam right and 52.70 for a diferenchal vent
Case 580b forgot
Work, Welcome to the forum:drinkup Not sure but I believe you cannot replace the 2 shaft seals(A35919) inside the side gear, unless you remove the final drive gear, to allow the side gear to slide off the carrier shaft. This is done by removing the diff cover and pulling the axle. The leaky offender is usually the seal(A39273) that runs on the side gear. The inner cover o-ring needed is G10347. You can use this site to get prices: http://www.colemanequip.com/Case_Parts.asp#partSearch One reason A39273 may leak is because of end-play in the carrier bearings. With the inner cover installed temporarily using 1/2"NC bolts 1" long, also minus A39273 and G10347; the 'end play' or 'up and down' play on the side gear splined end, can be checked. Just grab it and wiggle. There should be no movement. Carrier(side gear) tapered bearings should actually have a slight pre-load on them. This is set with those large shims on either side, when the crown and pinion is set to spec. 580CK and B models, unless updated, have fiber thrust washers between the side gears and carrier. These are prone to wear and breakage; if they break then suddenly you have lots of end play and loose the support the 2 tapered bearings were designed to give the crown gear. Sometimes replacing an inner cover seal A39273 on one side can lead to a leak on the other side. A Case mechanic on this site, Mel, locks one brake up tight by adjusting it, before working on the other side. Mel also uses electrical tape to protect the seal when installing the inner cover. The left-side side gear has a nasty groove in it and it must filled with electrical tape or have a plastic sleeve slide over it for installation. The tape idea works very well. Phil
P Thank you for the info. This is my first backhoe. I grabbed the shaft and I have twelve thousands. Must need the fiber washers. The axle on the right side has 8 thousands end play add 4 thousands up anddown measured at the weal flange. I checked the axle nut it is tight. I will have to pull the axle to remove the final drive gear to replace the fiber washers. The axle seal does not leak. if I pull the axle and after reinstalling the axle the seal would leak could I replace the seal without removing. The axle tube and all that is attached. I am worried about this.
That amount of movement isn't too alarming compared to some I've seen. If you want to replace your fiber washers, remember the replacement washers are available in several thicknesses, used to set the gap between the spider gears, as I recall. There is a separate .010"washer that goes with each thrust washer and goes toward the inside as I recall. Sometimes a measurement can be taken from the old washer, where it's not worn to see what was used. Wear in the carrier bearings can also add to end play. Axles can be removed by prying them out of the housing, once the nut is removed. When replacing the axle, spacers are used to force the outer seal back in place, evenly, as the nut is tightened. You should get a service manual if you intend to go much further than you have. Phil
i think this is what was leaking i found it this way. I found out it has steal washers inside not fiber. it must have ben apart before, maybe this is how the seal was damaged:beatsme
Those are the 2 seals around the diff lock shaft. Good thing you pulled it apart. Phil
Wow Phil, you do some serious work!