been working a bit with my old 580CK, and have noticed that the brakes are REAL weak. They will stop, but it takes a wile, and you realy have to lay on them. Does not seem to be a ton of travel on the pedels, so I dont know if its a adjustment issue. For all of you that have worked on these, do you have a basic Diag procedure for me? Anything common on these things?? Thanks for any help!!
Specs call for 1 1/4" to 1 3/4" 'free pedal', and adjustment is necessary after 2 1/4" free travel. It's possible adjustment may help. Next step would be an inspection to check lining condition and oil contamination. I've owned quite a few 580CK's and BCK's and it's not often I get one with decent brakes. Aftermarket lining kits are available. Phil
Here is the section 74 of the manual (Brakes): http://www.filefactory.com/file/b19df4b/n/Section_74_Brakes.pdf The site has a lot of ads, but just scroll to the bottom where it says download. It was the only place I could find free file hosting. If it doesn't work then give me an email address that I can email the file direct to you. If you have the Diff. lock you'll have to remove that first. The studs have to come out to get enough clearance (per the manual). People have recommended replacing everything, look for aftermarket kit with everything (discs, balls, and springs) and the bands too. Make sure your seals between the Diff. housing and brake are not leaking. Oh, and if there are drain holes in the bottoms of the housings, make sure they are clear. If your brake return springs are shot replace them too(cheap enough to get at a Case dealer). And finally, like Phil is implying; even when these brakes are new they generally suck! Some think it's just a bad design. Here are some websites for parts: http://www.brokentractor.com/case_backhoe_differential-brakes.htm http://www.equipmentpartssource.com/onlinestore/store_brakes_case.php Hope this helps!
Ok, got it okney1lz. Thanks! I have a manual, but did not see that section in it. Ill check it out this weekend.
OK, had a chance to work the tractor a little yesterday, and I have to say they ARE getting a little better. The tractor had sat for a year or so, so maybe they were just a little glased over, or a little rusty or something. Also they free travel is a little diferent from one side to the other, so having the two pedels linked, was only applying one brake. I will do the adjustment, and follow up with how it works after. Thanks guys for your help!!!!
Well I get a call yesterday from the old owner. "Hey, I have two sets of brake linings here for that loader.... " So seems I'm set there. Funny how this stuff works.
got a 580 b 1976 and no right brake at all- found out the hard way unloading it from the trailer ! had to release and pray! ride'em cowboy!
hey guys this site is very,very awesome! bought a 580b on ebay had it shipped from P.A. with u-ship- ive quietly observed many of your threads and am honestly impresssed by so many of your expertise and wilingnesss to share good advise-got perfect service manuals-mint condition from previous owner-I,ll try to post pictures and share info as soon as i learn how-
I've got a Case 580 K and I'm loving it but my master brake cylinder has developed a leak. Just wondering if anyone has removed the master cylinder and how difficult this is? I don't quote understand how u get to them. Do I need to remove the entire cowling above the pedals and surrounding the steering column inside the cabin? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome to HEF farmerjim! There is a small panel on LHS of steering wheel, remove it & that will allow you to see what is going on. Remove the clevis pins to the pedals. From memory I always dropped the return springs off. Now from engine flap area remove the plumbing to the cyls. They are unfortuately held in with bolts & nuts :Banghead - 1/2" spanner required under dash & 1/2" x 3/8"dr socket with long extention at engine flap side. I've only ever bought genuine kits for them. *** ONLY USE MINERAL OIL TO FILL *** Whatever you are using in your hydraulics is fine. TIP - when you fit the main seal to the piston, you have to ssttrrretttccchhhh the heck out of it to get it on. - polish all the edges of the seal groove with some W&D paper to remove the sharp corners. If you don't you will be buying another kit as you WILL cut the seal........ "bin there done that"
Thank you for the quick and detailed response airman! I will give it my best shot. Just have find someone who sells the kits. Just wanted to double check you are saying for me to use hydraulic fluid in the brake system - not normal brake fluid? I am so happy I found this forum - don't feel nearly as "alone" and helpless anymore! You guys rock! Cheers from down under!
Correct! Use hydraulic oil. There are 2 sizes re master cylinders 7/8" & 1" be sure you order the right one. There is no way of knowing without measuring - most are 1", but be sure. If you have trouble finding kits contact me by P.M. or email.
Ok. Thanks again airman! I will try to contact you directly to hopefully get some pointers on where I can locate suitable kits.