I started repacking the leaking cylinders on my hoe, the dipper cylinder was a breeze. I moved onto the lift cylinder 2"X4" cylinder that was a weeper and I thought it would be an easy go like the first cylinder. Boy O Boy was I wrong. The end of the shaft is stuck in the bore just inches from coming out, and when I looked inside I could see that the wiper seals had broken up and were wedged between the cylinder walls and the plunger. I was thinking of heating the cylinder walls were the plunger is stuck, maybe that would allow the seals to soften enough to pull the ram apart. So, am I going in the right direction? Has anyone else suffered with this issue?
loosen the hose connections at both ends of cylinder, may have vacuum holding back the rod, then use a comalong to pull out rod, rig it strait line to pull, do it gently Good Luck
line are disconnected, pulled it as far as It would go with the comealong
pull harder
Not my first rodeo, pulling harder as you stated was not working. In the last picture that I just posted you can see the plunger on the end of the shaft, it contains 8 sweeper rings that are of a stiff rubber compound, the cylinder that is stuck has never been serviced, the sweeper seals are hard as a rock from use/age and have broken apart in the cylinder wedging themselves between the plunger and the cylinder and locking it tightly in the bore, my come along with two snatch blocks could not pull it any further, and the cylinder is too long to set up in the hoist pictured above. I am going to back flush it this morning to remove any residual oil and heat the cylinder near the plunger to try and soften the seals.
It appears that you are using an engine hoist to pull the rod out. If so what is it rated at 2 tons ? Too weak if it is. I had a couple that I chained to the tractor frame and then pulled the rod out with my 4 wheel drive truck.
works good on the same cylinders, on the larger cylinders I use my track loader as a dead head and do that very thing as well, just this is the first time I have come across a seized up cylinder...real PITA
Update: use medium heat all around the end of the cylinder, after putting the unit under a load of pulling stress. After about 20 minutes of heating the housing she popped. Fire wins again.
Going back together with no issue, the fun is the inner seal which I normally use a zip tie to fold if in half the snip the tie when it in the groove
sorry about the spelling and grammar errors, darn phone is hard to use on this site at times
When I first worked on my 580c to get it ready to move to my home shop the dipper cylinder was smoked...It was my first rodeo w/ cylinder seal repair..got the gland loose and basically pulled it out by hand,piece of cake....well then when it came to repacking my loader lift cylinders,I figured I'd show the guys at work how to rebuild a cylinder....HA not this time Mr. backhoe man...had er chained between giant anchored steel shop table and yanked w/ shop forklift,no dice....took cylinder back home,put back on machine, hooked up lines,wrapped with bath towel and put hydraulic pressure to it and presto instant rod removal.....my honey was not really happy about the towel, but they make new ones every day....point is use machine pressure for stubborn cylinders.....and use old towels...
I must disagree just a bit, one thing is that it's unsafe to pressurize a cylinder of this size when not secured, and the other is, if the rod strikes a surface thats just a hard it can dent the rod surface or even gall it. I will admit I have charged small cylinders in the past on the bench and even out on the macadam, and it is cool when they blow apart, but I wouldn't do it to anything over a 1 1/2" diameter, JS
just for the record, I didnt do this to the top of the spanner cap
Just about every one of my glands looks like that,and in my defense ,all rods were supported/protected and you only need a small bump to get them to pop.. not full beans..desperate times sometimes call for desperate measures...just gotta use yur noodle......
I would look down inside the barrel and make sure the bottom side of is not dinged, I have replaced many of them from people dropping the hoe and bending them on the stabilizer pad, The damage to the brass spacer looks suspicious to me as I would hope you did not have to use enough heat to melt metal. usually the piston is scored at the bent area .
I did, the barrel was good, I replaced the brass spacer, the seal kit comes with new ones, I only used enough heat to soften the seals and continued to crank on the come along the entire time to walk it out of the tube.
Pressurizing with a liquid is one thing, but don't use air! That's when you make missiles