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580D brake job Qs

ak_snowbear ยท 2009-06-14 01:20

I've gotta 580D turbo with a leaking seal on the right brake, the side with the posi-track shaft. It was like a chinese finger puzzle but I got the housing off. I rotated it 90 degrees and cocked it till it came out between the shaft and the frame rail. Seems like it would have been a whole lot easier to drop the axle 1". How do I put it back together w/o tearing up the new seal. Can I install the housing and then put the seal in? Any other tips?

Replies9
  1. #1ak_snowbear2009-06-16 01:55

    thirty hits and no ideas

  2. #2stock2009-06-16 04:03

    Any pictures of this finger puzzle?

  3. #3Phil2009-06-16 07:09

    Here's a picture off the Case site. I'm assuming the reference is to the cover #1. End of the shaft must be pretty close to the frame. I've never worked on the 580D turbo brake assembly. Maybe if the housing,#1, was removed off the other side, the whole crown gear/carrier assembly would shift over enough allowing easier assembly on the right side. Good idea to replace both seals anyway. If you disturb the seal on the other side it may start leaking anyway, unless the brake was locked before hand. Phil

  4. #4Phil2009-06-16 07:31

    Now that I think about it, I'm not so sure:tong. The left bull gear is close to the carrier. Maybe somebody else has an easy way. Here's a picture of just the carrier. Those carrier bearings tend to lose their pre-load over time especially with lots of roading. Good idea to check that, the crown and pinion will start to howl as a first step. Phil

  5. #5ak_snowbear2009-06-16 12:26

    Thanks Phil. I hadn't thot about the seal on other side. If it is an old seal, like the one I removed, it'll be stiff and probably damaged now. I started with the brake adjuster tightened up on the left but had to loosen it so the shaft would drop giving me that extra 1/4" needed to work the right side. Better to replace the left too than mess up another set of brake discs.

  6. #6bobin352009-06-16 18:53

    I would take shim stock to make a seal guide this is how ie always done them. make sure the seal drain hole is open also!

  7. #7ak_snowbear2009-06-16 23:24

    Thanks I'll remember that for next time. One side is together and I'm getting ready to put the seal in the other side. I drove the first one alittle deeper than I wanted but I think it will be ok. I'll measure the other side to make sure it's not up against the bearing. The housings go on nicely without the seals in place. It would be a major PITA to try and get the housing in if the seals were in. The extra 1/4" gained by letting the shaft fall makes a huge difference. Those drain holes are odd. They deadend at the shims. I would have thot they should go somewhere. I replaced the left side seal as suggested by Phil and found the housing drain plugged with dry brake material.

  8. #8Phil2009-06-17 06:08

    I think it's the left side that has that dreaded sharp ledge on the carrier shaft. I have used a plastic coke bottle to slide over the shaft before the housing/seal assembly is slid on. We had a very knowledgeable fellow here, Melben, who used electrical tape to fill the groove. Once the seal was in, the end of the tape was pulled to unwind it from the groove. Installing a seal, when parts are assembled is not uncommon, example, an auto tranny drive shaft seal replacement. As long as the seal lip is not damaged or the garter spring pops out. Check for any up or down or endways movement of the carrier shaft once the housings are tightened down on the shims. I've never worked on the turbo brakes so I'm not sure if one can get good clamping pressure on that housing without being fully assembled. Phil

  9. #9ak_snowbear2009-06-18 04:09

    Got'r all back together. So far no leaks