Going to be installing a new fuel injection pump on my 580 Super E backhoe. Just wanted to know what i should look for when installing the new one. I'm guess in the pump is keyed to be installed in a certain direction for timing? Haven't taken the old one off yet. Waiting on new one to arrive. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeff
Buy the service manual for the machine. There is one on Ebay for $180.00. Everything you need to know is in it. Do not remove the pump until you have the # 1 piston in the correct position. All of the timing marks must be in the correct position before the pump comes off or you will have terrible time getting the pump reinstalled the way it HAS to be.
Is it a CAV pump? What did it cost and why did you get a new one vs. having the old one fixed?
It was leaking fuel badly. I ordered a rebuilt one because I was still able to use the machine and just wanted to swap out the old one. It ran about $950 with a $250 core charge. Once I get it swapped out then I'll send my old one back. I was told since it was a rotary style pump I can just swap it out. So I need to find out for sure.
,you will see a plastic timing pin under that pump at about 5 o'clock to it. You should be able to push the pin when you roll it around to TDC. Be sure you have #1 cyl valves both closed on the compression stroke. Then you have a plastic cap in front on the timing cover that screws out covering the nut that holds it to the timing gear. Pull it and be sure your rebuilt pump is set on 1 before reinstalling it.
The new pump came "locked in time" So it should be ready to be installed.
Yes sir,long as you got the rest of the motor lined up ,bolt it up -REMEMBER to put the lock pins in the unlocked position ,prime it and crank her up
Ha! I have heard several mention starting it with that plastic pin pushed in and it's gets broke. I think the front nut needs to be tightened to about 48 ft/lbs of torque. Maybe someone else can verify this.
These lock pins..either one of you able to post a pic of them? Thanks!
AND the one above it in the pump,that one can wreak havoc on the pump.
So that I understand correctly.. -Before I pull the old pump make sure cylinder 1 is in the up position-TDC -Once cylinder is in TDC the plastic pin which Bowen has posted a pic of should be able to be pushed in. -Remove old pump install new ones -Bleed lines -Pull out plastic pin which Bowen posted a pic of -Pin on pump?
It has a strange oval shaped clip/washer on it. If you move the clip so that it lets the bolt go in, this locks the pump down. With the clip under the bolt the pump is free to turn. Pay attention to the wire going to the solenoid as you remove the old pump. Almost all the fuel lines connecting to the pump, including the injector lines, have to be removed.
Ok, So it's looking to be relatively easy swap. Getting piston 1 up on TDC, pushing in that bottom pin (which i think mine may be broke), removing old pump, installing new one, priming, pulling bottom pin out, unscrewing pin on pump and turning the clip on it and tightening back up. Thank you guys for you help. Once it's up and running i will let you know how things went. Might not be till the weekend when I have time to work on it.
IF your pin is broken you can remove it and use your "pinky finger" as a guide.. The pin is held in by a star clip, just get a screwdriver and pop it out..remove the pin w/some pliers and check for a "bump" on the end of the timing pin. IF its there..remove the oring on the timing pin, lube the pin w/grease or oil to make it go in and out easier. I ALWAYS rotate the engine with the pin out and use my finger as a guide until I feel the TBC hole come up, then I install the lubed pin W/O the oring to find true TDC. Its VERY EASY to shear the end off the pin so be carefull and don't go to fast. TPG
YEP,I'll second that,they are easy to break off for sure
Thank you everyone for your input. The installation is very simple and fool proof. My pin was fine. Only part that held me up was the plastic cover on the front of the timing cover. Once I realized it unscrewed I was good to go. Now to figure out where the right rear brake cylinder is and fix that so both brakes work.
580SE? Take out the instrument panel and look down in the hole. But you don't fill these as I understand it. (And your's may be different) You probably need to start a new thread on this problem. The problem may not be here at all.
Wheel cylinder. Both master cylinders are good. It leaks out of right rear
Oooohh... I better just let someone else help with that.
There have been a lot of post on the SE brakes but to me it is still a little confusing. I see three possibilities of brakes in the SE. Wet, dry. and master cylinders with auto fill and without, maybe on both. My 1983-4 580SE has regular master cylinders just like on a car or truck. My brakes are dry, won't work if oil gets on them. If I remember right from the old post bowen has wet brakes and auto feed to the M cylinders and hand brake on the drive-shaft. Oh, and I forgot, the hand brake on the dry brakes are on a lever that pulls on the normal brake disk. The wet brakes have a separate brake on the drive shaft. Could be other combinations that I am not aware of.
This is S/N related. I have no brake problems so I have never took any bolts off... only 95% sure what I have. But from all I have researched mine are dry brakes. Gear oil in the transaxle vs. Hy-Tran Ultra for the brakes. But I do have the master cylinders that are filled with the hyd fluid from the tank if I understand it correctly. Never worked on this either. And my parking brake does have the external disc vs. being inside the transaxle case. BTW this S/N is from the transaxle, NOT the machine. The plate is underneath. Mine is S/N 16274426, made in 1985
I would think that with gear oil in the transaxle you would have to have dry brakes. I have had my right side apart several times only because I didn't do it right the first time. I had oil (gear oil) leaking from the brake housing and the disk were soaked with it. I used brake cleaner to clean them good and put in a new seal but not a whisper of a brake, not even with the wheel off the ground. Bought new disk and installed them, still not a hint of brakes. Opened it again and this time opened the actuating disk and removed the balls, (for the second time). This time I took more care in inspecting the ramps. I was working in the field, (true field) so I had to go to the auto store and buy grinding wheels for a drill and work off a generator. I reworked the ramps and hand polished them, the balls were fine. Put it back together and now I have pretty good brakes. Had I been more careful the first time it would have saved me a lot of time.