Hey guys, please forgive my ignorance. I had a hose break that comes out of the loader control valve. It was stuck good, I had to heat it and cheater pipe a pipe wrench to get it unscrewed. I did, but in the process broke off a cylinder off the bottom of the valve. Again, please forgive my ignorance here, I'm having to learn as I go on this machine. I scoured the parts diagram and it looks to be the CAS detent housing. Could you guys look at the attached pictures and confirm that. Some of the threads broke off where it attaches to the pump. What's the actual function? And if it's detent, the push button is completely missing, so if I don't use loader detent, will it hold?
That is your boom float detent.
Float doesn't work either. Is that cylinder under pressure if you're not using the float?
No. The only oil in that cap would be spool seal leakage . The float is held in by little balls and springs inside the cap.
I don't think you have the correct diagram for your 580K It should look like this - The control lever will be all floppy without the cap fitted, it also controls the lever/spool neutral position. "Float" position is when you push the loader lift lever past the lower position. It then clicks into float & is held there by those ball bearings & then allows the loader bucket to ride over & follow the ground - it basically opens the cylinders at both ends, allowing oil to move freely either side of the piston - so there is no pressure in the circuit at all. Those little ball bearings are a real PITA to deal with, they will definitely challenge your repair skills @Ed1 ......
YES! That's it exactly alrman! Do you know what the heading on that diagram is. I searched and searched and didn't find that. But that's it exactly, 14 is the part. The ball bearings are still intact, there's just a little chip out of the threads at the top. If it's not under pressure than maybe I can thread it back on and get by for a bit.
I found it finally! It's $100!!!
$100 for a $10,000 machine
It's a money pit is what it is. I've already put $2k in it. Everytime I replace something the next thing in line blows.
All part of used equipment ownership
Oh I know it, I'm poor, everything I own is used lmbo!!
Ok guys, the plot thickens. Part of the housing threads broke off inside the valve. Nothing can ever just be easy on this machine. So I'm ordering a new housing, but I have to get the threads out. Does anyone know, can I grab 9 with a channel locks and unscrew it from 2, carefully so I don't lose the spring and retainers? Then maybe I can open a lineman pliers in there and spin it out??
Do it this way...... Remove the rest of your broken housing so that the bore is clear. Disconnect the boom control spool linkage at the top of the valve (Make sure your boom is on the ground also). Once you have the linkage unhooked, the boom spool should easily slide out the bottom of the valve (the end where your housing broke). It will lose some oil so have a drain pan or bucket ready. Once you have it out, put the linkage end (the flats) in a vise and you can remove the screw (item 9) from the spool. You should be able to build the entire spool assembly on the vise, and then just slide it back in the spool and screw in your new cover housing. I would not try to do this with the spool still in the control valve. *NOTE* DO NOT CLAMP ANY OF THE CHROME SPOOL IN A VISE. Only the flats on the end.
I just re-read your question. You CAN remove the screw from the bottom of your spool if you need the room to access the broken cover piece to extract. You wont get the detent assembly out in one piece, just catch all the little parts and then bench (vise) build the assembly to reinstall. AGAIN...…...make sure your boom is on the ground BEFORE you do anything. If you drop the spool there is no hydraulics to hold the boom cylinders stationary and gravity will take over uncontrolled until the boom settles to the ground.
So you don't think I can unscrew 9 from 2 with 2 still in the valve. I figured I'd have to hold the spool above the housing. Or, will that whole thing really just slide out if I disconnect the linkage? I don't want to have to take too much apart. It's not leaking, I don't want to mess with any seals and cause another leak, I have enough If it'll all just slide out without messing with the seals I that'd be smarter/easier. Like you said, I just need room to stick some pliers or something up in there to extract the broken off threads.
Those special bolts are a real pain to deal with when the spool is in a vise, they are hardened steel, very hard to grip & turn. Just pull the spool out, if you have enough clearance to do so, without any obstructions - other wise you may need to remove the entire valve to gain access. ***** FOLLOW THE SAFETY GUIDELINES BY @Vetech63 ***** Is the valve on the RH Chassis out side the machine? Some 580K's have them fitted behind the engine firewall......yuk!
It's between the firewall and heat shield, but I took the heat shield out. I should have the room.
You can unscrew it. I just wouldn't attempt to installed it that way.
Well if all I have to do is disconnect the linkage and the whole thing will slide out, that's all I'll need to do. Then I'll have room to get something in there to turn that piece out. I thought about maybe a wooden dowel that size. Tap it up in there and twist it out.
So you have the loader frame in the raised position - WITH THE SAFETY SUPPORT IN PLACE & ALREADY HOLDING THE WEIGHT OF THE BUCKET......BEFORE you pull the spool out.
I think I can do it with it down, but yes, I'll use the safety if it has to be up.
Alright boys, this sucks. Pulling the spool out the bottom doesn't work. It bottoms out against the back of the motor with an inch or so still in the valve. I don't think I can twist the valve enough just taking out the bolts, I'd have to disconnect all the plumbing. I can not unscrew the bottom half no matter what I try, it just slips round and round. So i can't pull it out the top. I'm out of ideas.
Post a pic of valve please so we can see what you are seeing.
Sorry, they were posted earlier in the thread
Your valve is mounted on the firewall correct? If so you will have to remove valve to repair the detent cap because you can't get spool out, as you have found out. I was thinking valve was mounted below floor plate, some of the early ones had loader valve mounted on firewall.
Not really on the firewall, it's bolted to the side I think. I bought a 1" pipe nibb and took the threads off with a grinder to try and jam it in and twist the broken piece out, but it wouldn't go over the spring.
I'm completely at a loss how else to do this without removing the valve which is a huge job.
You could remove the engine, with that out of the way the spool would just come straight out ...... I did say this may test your mechanical skills..... & we haven't even got to the detent balls yet.
I was thinking I could just drill a half inch hole in the back of the motor to give me the extra clearance, then just fill it with JB Weld after. What do you think?? I already did the balls. The trick is have your Allen in the cap ready to screw in and stick your index finger up inside. If you lay the tube a little sideways and just drop the balls in, once you start tightening the cap they'll spread out.
drill holes in a perfectly good engine ??? im not as experienced as the guys helping you already,but thats a bad idea...just get use to the idea the valve has to come out and thats the pile of **** you stepped in, we all have our piles that we stepped in or will someday..hey its only time to do it right and not cause other issues while fixing one....hopefully you got a cool spot to work with this heat..
You do know I we were both joking right Hobbytime??? Although nowadays, I wouldn't be surprised. I mean, people are confused what bathroom to go in, so..... Guys, I'm gonna unbolt the valve and super pray I have enough slack in the plumbing to just rotate it enough to slide the spool out. I'm not happy about it, but it is the only option.
you would be surprised at what some people do when it comes to repairs or simple maintenance..there was a thread on some forum, may even be this one that some dumbass filled his ford mustang engine with water and ran it , thinking it will clean out all the sludge, and it was verified he did it on a ford forum.( needless to say after the engine seized up tight he decided to sell off the car).sooooo....with that, when someone even jokes on crazy actions, one has to ponder if they really are joking...
Haha, maybe he was trying to steam clean his injectors??!!
Hey guys. Well getting that valve in an orientation to pull that spool is a big a pain in the *** as I thought. There isn't enough slack in the metal lines to just let it rotate, so off they've come, well, two of the four are off so far, it got dark and I gave up. I only found three mounting bolts, is that correct or is a fourth hiding somewhere?
Correct, only 3 bolts
Three is enough lol, I have no clue how I'm ever gonna get the bottom one back in!!!
You have removed the plate behind the foot pedals haven't you?
You mean the swing pedals, or brake pedals? If you mean the brake pedals, I didn't know there was a plate there to take out.