Has anyone experienced very hard brake pedal? The brakes on this machine have always sucked. This last time I tore into them , I replaced everything. Frictions, steels and rebuilt the actuators. The masters hold with no bypass under extended foot pressure. The brakes are very poor and the pedal is very hard. All the right fluids in all the right places. Does anyone have any ideas?
If you have put all those parts into this - there's no reason why the brakes shouldn't be performing correctly. What oil exactly did you use to fill the transaxle after the repair? Case OEM? (Transaxle fluid?) OR something else? If the oil is not suited for wet brakes - the pedal will feel good but the machine just will not pull up.
I used the Case tch and tried the Mobil wet brake oil. I also added friction modifiers to kill some of the chatter. These brakes have chattered from when I got it at 700 hrs. Until now at 5000 plus hours. They have never been "right". Now their just getting worse.
TCH should not have been used & Mobil wet brake oil - I'm not too sure of - but, from what you are saying, didn't do the job. This is what should be used, it is an 80w/140 oil - a lot heavier than any other wet brake oil made by most oil companies. It's not cheap....
I misspoke the TCH,,,,, I think,,,. That's is the case oil that I use. The Mobil, (I can't recall the name) is the same application/weight as specified by Case. I'm pretty sure it's not oil related. I'm going to go back through all the adjustment procedure again this week. I'm starting to wonder if it's in the actuator pressure plates. Maybe the balls aren't climbing the ramps? Possibly the adjustment is to tight. It has to be something I'm overlooking.
You need to have at least 3 inches of pedal travel to apply the brakes, any higher the brakes will drag as they get hotter & can lock up.
Yep, it's good there. Pedal travel by is on. The questionable part is where the wheel cylinders are dupt to tighten until tire is difficult to turn and then back off 2 turns The question of difficult is a variable. I think I might just back them off some.
Wet brake chatter is always an oil related problem. Some noise you will always have, especially, just before the machine comes to a halt. But, how much is too much?
Update,,,, I'm still fighting with the brakes everything and I mean everything except the housing has been inspected and replaced. New oem master cylinders, rebuilt slave cylinder actuators, new plates and steels. All newly flushed lines and fluid replaced with Case recommended oil. They have been bled and re-bled, adjusted and readjusted. They do everything except stop the tractor. This ain't my first rodeo but what am I missing?
Did you actually replace the Mobil oil you first installed with CNH oil? If not, my recommendation is that you should dump the Mobil oil - get some CNH Transaxle Fluid. There is NO equivalent oil made by any oil maker - with the same viscosity & the brake additives / friction modifiers. You didn't specify exactly what you did fill it with?? Standard 85w/140 does not allow the brakes to work correctly in the 580K transaxle. Below is a screenshot of the Mobil website oil recommendation for the 580K..... red boxes are my edits
Well,,, after 2 Complete oil changes with the Case recommended Ultra oil they are still no better. I've kind of given up trying to get them to work correctly. The only remedy at this point is to not let any other operator run it. I kind of give up on it!
After 5000+ hours of chattering, perhaps it is time to install new brakes in a spotlessly clean transaxle and filled with the correct fluid.
I am not familiar with these brakes at all but is there a way to determine if what ever device squeezes the frictions and steels together is actually doing that? I have had brake pads frozen in place on rear automobile systems that would not generate braking action.
Can you verify the oil you used? "Case recommended Ultra oil" - is that Hy-Trans Ultra? If so, that is NOT the correct oil for a 580K series 1 transaxle. It should have Transaxle Fluid.