i looked at a '70 d8h today, have a few things a got questions on, 1. where they hold the final to the track frame. the four bolts that hold it down on each side on the outside, were all welded acouple times and cobbled pretty bad. guy acted like it was,"nature of the beast", is it really or is this something that can cause problems/ a stress point... is it something that can break, or is it that when there are redoing the seals and such, they break the bolts and did a crappy job repairing, ive never seen one with suck a cobby patch job. both sides where this way, the right side had a dripping leak. 2 if the linkage on the thottle was so wore , it couldnt shut the engine off. is that really just a rod adjustment issue, or can there be other issue. the actual pins and yokes didnt seem oblonged much at all, but the level felt like it was loose somewhere. 3. let it run for a hour, drove it around some, then open'd the rad. cap. no bad pressure relief at all, but there seem'd to be some air flow coming up from in the radiator, id of thought the cap would of had bad pressure if it was really a head gasket, now i wonder if a felt some fan air, that was escaping the hood. but didnt think so at the time. any insight is greatly appreciated. motor had a exhaust gasket leak bad on #6 , but ran good. rails were 75%good, but wasnt the smoothest rig ive drove as far as driving forward, reverse seemed smooth. i thought it could of been the packed gravel lot i was on, grousers were 2.5".
On the fix on the track frame it sounds like someone didn't want to spend the money to fix it the right way. Did they weld the cap to the track frame to hold it? When I have to change out the final drive seals on my machines I always put in new bolts with a lot of anti seize. It sounds like the owner just got by without maintaining the machine. If its cheap enough it might be a good buy. I just bought a good running D8k out here in California with a cab and ripper for $22,500. Undercairrage was 80%.
d8h final bolts No they welded the heads of a shorter bolt to the trackframe, then nuts on top for most of them, just looked to be done many times. What would cause the dozer to shake pretty good when driving it. It was bad enough it was vibrating the rops pretty good? I've drove a few of these old girls and not ran into one that shook so bad. All the frames looked good, rollers were ok,sprockets good .
Does the machine have a torque converter? If so it might be the U joints that go from the torque converter to the transmission. When the U joint goes bad it causes a lot of vibration. Because you have to pull up the floor plates to access the U-joints they tend to be forgotten when its service time. I try to grease the U-joints about every 500 hours. Sounds like a cheap repair job on the track frames. Is it the seven roller track frame? If so you might be able to find a good used pair off of an ag machine for around five grand.
On the track frames, is this a stress point when pushing and pulling? Of does it just ride. Thks for the help .
Just more living proff that there is a class of people out there that should not be allowed to own or have access to a torch or welder or both. I know many of them personally. Some of the things they do is totally off the wall. Had one call me a few monthes ago wondering how you weld cast iron to steel. Another one ask me how to weld ductile iron. When I asked how he knew it was ductile iron he tells me that it says ductile iron on it in plain English. I asked him what else it said on it. His response was "do bo weld, ductile iron." I tell him that is just what it means. His response is "that is only so they can get me to buy a new piece." Like I said no welder or torch for these people allowed.
I think ill just stay clear of it, makes me wonder what else is patched