Drained oil out of my D5c final drive and found good bit of metal shavings in the right one. I was wondering what worst case senerio, could i be looking at in price for having this repaired ?? any suggestions appriciated
It's hard to say, it all depends on parts brand, who does the labor, if gears need replacing, etc, but worst case would be a few thousand dollars.
Some photos of the particles or better still with them still attached to the mag plub might be a good start. That way might give you a better idea of what type of repair might be needed.
It might not be as bad as you think. I has the same thing, and it ended up being just the bearing rollers slowly spalling off. (D5G) Gears were still in nice shape. CAT patched it up before i completed the purchase of the unit, so i saw it apart myself. The bearings were several hundred each, they replaced 2 on each side i think. The good news is it could be that simple. Good luck
Was the debris on the outer or inner plug? The sooner you tear into it the cheaper it will be. If a bearing is failing and you run it until it fails then you will be replacing gears, shafts and possibly housings. This is a fairly simple job requiring no special tooling.
And Lee's not kidding you when he says stop it now to save money!!!
Thanks for replys I would be having someone do repairs I didnt know about outer or inner plug I took big plug at bottom inside off had fine metal shavings I stuck finger inside hole can feel small bits of metal and finger came out silver kind like when you get antizieze on your hands. Dont really know how to post picts. Just wanting worst case pricing estimate if everything gears bearings and housing are bad, trying to avoid sticker shock just the way my luck goes.
Absolute worst case, you really don't want to know...I quit totaling parts when I hit $10,000. That was all new Cat parts pricing from my local dealer, no freight or labor included. Worst case involves pulling the steering clutches to change the inside top pinion bearing. I seriously doubt you will have to worry about this scenario as you haven't mentioned grinding or other sounds of mechanical death coming from the area. Good luck.
"Anti-sieze-looking" paste is normal wear, particles that you can feel on your fingers are not. There is a thread somewhere about how to post photos. I suggest you have a look at it and post a photo or two if you need anything more than uninformed opinion about what your failure might be.
I have two questions. I know the inside plug in the frame is magnetized but is the fill or drain plug on the outside also magnetized? And if the inside plug is the only one magnetized, that means you lose your oil when you remove the plug to check what is attached to the inside of the plug. Isn't that correct?
Here it is -
I have a question instead of an answer. What is the easiest way to remove the final drive from a D5 Cat?
The D5c is a not common banger in the U.K. I think a Delta Cable pough final drive that I did about 3 years ago might have been based on a 5c, this needed a little cap removing to get to a fair sized nut, with this nut removed it was just a case of pulling the spocket, I think it took a 2" size adaptor and about 40 ton to fetch the rim off, it was similar to a 931 shovel to do, I know I have a few pics of 931's and D3 tractors somewhere if it helps, but you will need the rim pulled??? I think, the Delta tractor was a funny sort of machine it had a 3126 motor under an extended hood, and plenty of things had been modified to make it a "Delta" but the base unit was I think D5C
The easiest way is to have someone do it for you. To remove it, split track and just unbolt it from the frame. The pinion is still attached to the frame and can also be removed if needed. Do you need to disassemble it?
I have slack in final drive. You can move the sprocket from side to side with a pry bar. I have removed cap or cover on outside of final drive and took the big nut off end of final drive axel. But, I cannot get the "cover" off that has the key in it. Track would not stay in sprocket. It would climb out on the outside.
Big nut? do you have a D5B? The sprocket hubs are a press fit and you will need an H- bar and either a forcing bolt but usually a ram to pop it free.
The nut was not a monster, I just used the standard 3 leg set up into the service cylinder (74 ton) to pop the rim free, there was no outer support hub.