Thought I was in for a simple repack/reseal... of course, it's never that simple . Turns out the clevis end of the cylinder was gnarlier than a jihadi outhouse. So... 1 D36203 & $48.14 later... and that doesn't include machining & welding... sigh.
LOL I've spent the past few days screwing with the alternator on my 555. Voltage regulator died, why buy a new one for $50 when I can update the whole Motorola system? Scrounged up a few used ones off parted out reefer units. My boss gave me a brand new LN alternator that was an oddball, Cant get it to charge for anything. Had a prototype Valeo reefer alternator with movable mounts..should fit anything....nope, sticks out too far, belt rubs on shuttle cooler line. Hopefully have it licked tonight. How long does it take change an alternator? days..
my 580B I am working on has the same problem with one cylinder, I am working on swing tower repair right now but I was thinking machine a bushing tack weld it in place with rod then fill it with weld or have one huge rod to fill up the hole drilling the hole for the pin and welding it in, and anyway its just a stablizer
dr2, Keep us posted as to how you make out with this. Pics if available would be nice. Thanks, John
come one, come all... join me in my magical journey into bankruptcy. as per your request... here's heads... ...and tails... anyway, pulled the other stab. cylinder and, as i suspected, bearing is cracked . the good news this time is that i may just get away without a rebore/ rebush for cylinder #2. regards... d2r ps -- is there a good way to burp the air out of the system when reinstalling cylinders?
With my JD 310D I just install hoses to cylinders and make sure system is full of fluid and get in the cab and work the cylinders several times and top off the fluid. Air is gone in 2 minutes.
Don't tell me!.... Am I missing something....did your machine shop weld the bushing into place on one side? It sure looks like it from the photo. I always thought that was a no-no. On some bushings, they get the inner race into the bushing by cracking the outer race--it is hard to spot unless you know to look for it. The crack is held closed by the press fit in the hole. Dunno if the bushings on the Case are that kind. By the way, you can sometimes save big time on bearings and bushings if you check with a local bearing supply house, like Kaman, Kinecor, AIT, or the like. You need to be able to tell them the OD, ID, and thickness and they usually can fill in the blanks from there. Jon.
Im looking at a case super e and was wondering how the Case has treated you?
i asked about that when i picked up the cylinder... and they told me that was how they did this type of fix. as for the bearing itself, there's a picture of it near the beginning of the thread.
- UPDATE - Stabilizer blues Thought I'd share the latest. Turns out the messed-up clevis end of the cylinder was missing the spacers on either side of the bearing... which apparently allowed the bearing to crack, shift and baff out the hole in the cylinder tang. No shocker given this is such a high load-bearing assembly. My guess is the previous owner, who's a bit of a shade-tree mechanic, just lost them the last time he serviced the cylinder. FWIW, I asked about getting replacement spacers at the dealer and they told me they'd have to order them in... with a possible next week delivery. Went to a machine shop and for twenty bucks they turned me a couple overnight As you can see... it's both costly & time consuming to have to build up, machine & rebush the clevis end of the cylinder to accept a new bearing. For all you owners of older machines like my 580B... I'd suggest doing a quick check to make sure the spacers are actually there. Anyway... onwards & upwards.