Do any of you fellas have any experience with bleeding the master and slave cylinder on one of these old Dodge’s? It has a 230Cummins and a rto9513 and I let it sit for a while and now the clutch won’t disengage.
Use a hand powered vacuum bleeder for brakes, or fill reservoir pump the pedal a few times then crack bleeder at slave and let it gravity bleed.
And more than likely the clutch discs possibly froze to intermediate plate, should have a 14" twin disc and possibly organic material on friction disc/plate. Those can rust to the intermediate plate.
What would be the best way to get it broke loose if that was the problem. I think that could be it because the fluid reservoir was full when I checked it so I don’t see how it could have gotten air in it.
Remove the bell housing inspection cover, have someone push the pedal down to see if it's pulling/moving the throw-out bearing at least 1/2" {with engine off} first.
That’s my problem, I don’t have anyone to help me with it at all.
Well better find somebody.
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I finally got around to messing with the Dodge some more today and I put some batteries in it and cranked it,patched the airline to engage the pto where the mice had chewed it into and then I tried the clutch and it is working but the pedal is right on the floor. I haven’t used it much in the past 2 years and it has always been low but it seems much lower now. I just don’t know where to start trying to adjust it. I can’t get it in gear without cutting it off and restarting it right now but if I push the clutch hard into the floor I can stop it without it dying.
First--make sure there is no air in hydraulic system--then adjust.
How do you check for air?
Bleed it at bleeder screw/valve on slave cylinder at bell housing area. Make sure master is full of Dot 3 fluid first.
Ok I found the bleeder valve. You said pump it a few times and let it gravity bleed,does the pedal need to be in while it bleeds out?
Sometimes blocking pedal down does help other times it will make no difference.
I pulled the bleeder valve out and it was dry at first and then after a few minutes it got wet. I’m going to let it sit for a while and see if it starts running out. I know absolutely nothing about how to proceed but I’m just guessing.
Just make sure you keep the master cylinder full, do not let it run dry. If it drips out a 1/4 cup try it to see if it gained any extra pedal.
A while back I was able to get a little more pedal but I let it sit with the bleeder screw open and it never lost any fluid but I lost the pedal. I’m wondering if the valve is bad. Any thoughts on it?
I think you need to pull the master cyl and repair it and if the slave is leaking from the boot, remove it and repair it too. After disassembly and cleaning, inspect the bore for excessive rust damage before honing. Sometimes honing will remove light rust damage, otherwise the cyl may have to be replaced. In your case, i would just replace the cups and see how long it lasts. If the boot is good, reuse it and just replace the cups- they are cheap.
So you think the master cylinder is actually the culprit? I found some master cylinder that looks like it on line for 45-65 dollars and I would rather just go new if that’s the problem.
More than likely it is bypassing fluid in either master or slave cylinders. Finding exact new might be a problem but the ones you have might be rebuildable.
I’m pretty sure I have found the master cylinder but I haven’t found a slave that looks like same. The mounting bolts on mine are at an angle and all that I have found are directly horizontal. I might be able to modify it but I’m going to pull it off and take it to Napa and see if they can get a kit for it.
Finally got some weather to get out there and start tinkering. I took the line loose and nothing came out with the master reservoir full so I yanked it off and it was plugged. I had bought a master cylinder for a d100-300 and it looked the same but the boot assembly was different but my old one looks good so I swapped it over to the new one and I’m putting it back on. I’m going to have to get some line to hook it back up and I was wondering how I should proceed to bleed it now. I’m hoping that the slave will be alright. I am thinking to fill the reservoir and crack the bleeder open on the slave and get fluid to there and that’s as far as I know what to do. Would appreciate any info.
No one can give any advice?
Sorry Charles---but I'm out of circulation, there are others that can help though.
if you can’t find a helper to sit in the seat, and don’t have a vacuum bleeder, try pumping it a few times and while holding it down, use a stick jammed against the seat to hold it down while you crawl underneath and crack the bleeder screw. After a couple times you should get some pedal. Those old hyd activated clutches usually aren’t too bad to bleed
What’s wrong? Hope you’re alright.
I bought a cheap vacuum pump but I’ve never used one.
You need the little bottle with the inlet and outlet tubes on the cap to use with the vacuum method. It keeps the fluid from going into the vacuum pump
What is the diameter of the tubing that connects the two cylinders? Some hydraulic clutches have to be bled by pushing fluid into the bleed screw at the slave cylinder.
I never considered that. Is that on old vehicles or the newer ones with the hydraulic collar/bearing on the trans input shaft? I’ve only ever had the old external slave cyl type
Although master cylinder’s look the same ones used for clutches don’t require the check valve at the bottom of the bore. It is designed to hold residual pressure against the brake shoes and that isn’t helpful when working with a release bearing. One setup that I worked on had the slave cylinder mounted way above the master cylinder and that one would give you fits to get bled properly. Keep plugging away. You will get it.
If the line from the master to the slave cylinder is of a larger diameter if you try to manually bleed it the air in the line will keep bubbling back up the line. Volvo trucks have a hydraulic clutch and there is no way you can bleed them manually. Volvo sells a tool that puts fluid in from the slave end.
I’ve only worked on the old 60’s-70’s hyd truck (medium duty) clutch systems and the 70’s - early 80’s Steiger tractors which used the hyd clutch systems. That Volvo system sounds like it could be a pita
The Volvo slave cylinder is a pita! It is also air assisted with Pressure protection valve supplying air.