Hello working on my case skid steer 85xt I was loosing power in left side did flow test and think i narrowed it down to drive motor, I pulled motor apart to look for any signs of metal debris or blown seals, the seals didn't look great but were still one piece and no noticible metel shavings but I noticed this rubber in couple spots were I don't believe there's supposed to be a seal not sure if its rubber or silicone and I'm wondering if a good cleaning and seal kit will fix it.
There rubber piece about 3/4 inch long in groove where driver pointing
did you have to remove the twin pumps to be able to remove the drive motor?
Yes, you have to remove the pumps to get to the travel motors. The blown seal may be part of your weak travel issue. Its definitely worth replacing. Hope you marked the housing before disassembly.
No I didn't remove the pumps, I pulled the drive motor parking assembly as one out the front. Yes I marked the housing. Although I need to find something better to mark them with cause my lines were fading when I was cleaning the housing up
What would be the best stuff to clean everything with? I was originally thinking brake cleaner then soak all the clean parts in new hydraulic oil before assembly. Any recommendation of a better way I'm all ears
Brake clean cuts through the oil well but I don't like using it on very sensitive parts like that because it chills them and then moisture condenses on them. Not a big deal but it can be annoying. Plus it's expensive. I clean stuff like that with kerosene in a recirculating parts washer sink. Just wear good gloves and try not to breath too much
OK thanks now before I start cleaning stuff up. Would it be a bad idea to use a dremal and cut a line in housing to mark it for aliment? I'm thinking my paint market lines will come off when I start cleaning
I usually use a dermal or similar to mark things on hydraulic components. I haven't found any marker that holds up to brake clean and oil.
Put new seals in pump installed pump along with new filters put it back together fired it up and my charge light is on so I shut it back down, does the system need to be bleed when first started?
You will need to fill up the case drain of the motor. It may take a minute or so for the charge pump to work out the air from the system, any longer and there is likely a issue. You said you didn't remove the pumps, so you shouldn't have to prime them.
Well got it going and it didn't fix it. Anyone know of a place to get a drive motor cheaper than case dealer? When I was talking to case dealer they were talking like I'd have to get the parking brake assembly too beings mine is an early model. Also any other ways to be 100% positive it's the drive motor?
There is some scoring evident in those pictures which is not good. Unfortunately, your pump will look exactly the same. Pressure & pump efficiency is lost through those scratch marks. If you install a new drive motor with worn pumps, you are throwing time & money to the wind. You really need to overhaul the pumps as well & that is a specialized repair best left to a shop that has the ability to bench test their work after repair.
Thanks for the advice, guess I got some thinking to do, I bought machine to dig my basement and do landscaping for my house I'm building witch basements done. Might be farther ahead selling it broke and cutting my losses. It's only got 2200 hours on it so it really sucks to have this big of problems
If you put a flow tester on it and you're sure the pump checks out good you should be able to r&r just the motor. Used parts are always an option. Buy from a yard that will stand behind their parts and flush it before use. You also might be able to replace just the worn parts in the motor you have to save some $$$. I wouldn't give up hope just yet.
Ya I had a pressure guage and flow meeter on it and everything was in spec according to my manual, except left drive motor was loosing too much flow when I put it under load. supposed to only drop like 2 GPM and witch right side did, but left would drop over 10gpm