Hello everyone, A little while back, I had a very hard time undoing my rusted bobtach wedges on my 863 G series. After repeated oiling for over a week, I was eventually able to free them by hammering carefully from underneath. Anyway, after I did it, I noticed that one of the levers was way too free, enough so that I wired it in place in the meantime. The other lever was tighter, though not probably as tight as it should be. So, in taking it apart to see what I needed, I see the bolts that are captured by the bushing are bent up, probably almost 30 degrees, and the springs are shot. But, I think the bushings might have actually broken. I thought it was just a sleeve/spacer that slides over the bolt, but now I see on the replacement part that it's one solid piece. Would it pay to just re-weld the broken point, rather than cut the bushing out completely? What is the common repair here? Thanks in advance. Joe
That's a weld in bushing, I've replaced a good number of them because that part the appears to be a sleeve is broken, especially on machines that have a power bobtach. Not a big deal to replace, grind the weld with a die grinder and zizz wheel, knock the old one out, fit a new pivot bushing weldment and weld it in.
Darn, I really have to stop looking for things to fix here! But, thanks, Willie. Now, I just have to decide, do I change them both out. Both of my "sleeves" are a bit bent from the bolt bending, might be only a matter of time. I think I liked it better when these levers were stuck in place.... Joe
LoL, really, if you have the tools, die grinder with a cut off wheel and a welder (MIG preferred), no big deal to replace that weld in bushing, done it many times myself. If you get them both fixed up right and proper you'll get many years of service out of them as opposed to a "duct tape" repair that you keep coming back to. And the coupler latch pins...grease the **** outa them!
torch out the bushings, weld in new ones 30 -45 min replace pivot bolts, springs, washers and locknuts that hold the handle in place while you are there might as well replace the yoke, shoulder bolt and roll pin. 30-45 minutes it may take you a little longer, it's the 1st 1000 or so that are the hardest, it gets easier after that :drinkup
Hi Guys, So the parts came, and I installed the new bushings. I originally tried to cut/grind out the weld, but they welded it pretty good from the factory, and I couldn't get below the penetration with my angle grinder wheel, so I cut it with the torch. Pretty straightforward. One question I have though, the holes in the handle, at least the one that rides on the bushings, seem to have a lot of slack. I read somewhere that they normally have a lot of play in them, but I just wanted to make sure this is right Thanks. Joe
Yep, the holes in the handles are not a snug fit on that weld-in bushing. You're good.
You should have a bobcat hot-line, Willie! Thanks. One's got a little egg-shape to it, but I'm not sure that's a big deal either. Joe
I think those holes in the handles are punched out in a big press, not unusual to see slight deformation in the holes, should still work. And me, if a machine has a power bobtach, I cut the handles off, right about where the handle starts to widen out. I've had too many operators get those handles hung up in some attachment and damage the weld-in bushing, or they use the handle to jockey something around. I mean, they got power bobtach, they don't need the handle, and I don't need them mucking up that bushing.
Given the trouble I had trying to free the wedges originally, I'm sure the previous owner was accustomed to closing his eyes and wailing with a sledge to change attachments, being sure of course not to hit his feet.... I wonder, though, if the slop that exists contributes to bushing damage (could be a conspiracy by the bushing manufacturers). Seems it would be best to keep it tight, less momentum, etc. Joe
Grease. By far the biggest problem is someone doesn't keep the latch pin greased, and the result is the lever/bushing become the b*****d stepchild that takes all the abuse when changing attachments. If everything is lubricated proper, one hand can latch/unlatch and attachment, cheater bars and hammers aren't necessary. But I've had plenty of customers bring me a machine to work on and I have to take a cheater pipe to unlatch the pins. :Banghead