Hi everyone, I have a new-to-me '94 310D. So far all seems well with the exception of the idiot lights... When I move the ignition switch to the "lamp check" position, none of the indicators come on. They are fine by continuity check on the bulbs, so that's not the issue. When I first move to this position, the "STOP" indicator flashes several times and the buzzer beeps in time with the flashes. This stops after maybe five flashes/beeps. What I noticed behind the idiot light section is 3 connectors. Two of them are in place, but a 4-pole connector is missing. I see a bundle of wires back in the void behind the panel, but it's got 5 conductors in it. These are wrapped in electrical tape, but I have not yet cut it off to see if they're all shorted together or if they are separated from one another. Has anyone had a situation where all idiot lights do not work, and if so what were the causes? Is there a chance someone here has an electrical schematic for the 310D? I would really like to dig in and see what was shadetree'd with that bundle of wires. Thank you!
How is your parking brake on that machine? I have a 97 and it's never had a working parking brake when I've had it. Apparently it's the style around here to rip out the linkages because they're electronically controlled and a big pain in the butt when they stop working well. As on they don't release or something. However, if the parking brake button is pushed on, the thing will start beeping and flashing at me in a manner similar to what you described. My electrical system is just a rotten spaghetti mess also so nothing does what it was originally supposed to.
Welcome to HEF fungus ! Serial number? Post a picture of the connectors in question.
Thank you both for your input! Finca SDR: The parking brake is electric, and currently works. The previous owner had some issues with it, but "cleaned some contacts" and it started working again. The PO was a county water authority, so the person who did the work was unavailable for me to ask questions to. Thus far I have always started/stopped the machine with the parking brake engaged, so it sounds similar to your experience. mg2361: I have attached a photo of the backside of the idiot lights, and it appears that these are connections 7-10. Regarding the serial number, can you guide as to where it might be located? Update: the mystery loose wires are labeled as follows: Black wire, "G10" (Ground in other locations, terminated in fork terminal, isolated from others) Purple wire, "M39" (Terminated in fork terminal, isolated from others) Purple wire, "M37" (Terminated in fork terminal, isolated from others) Red wire, "P21" Red wire, "P21" (Both terminate in the same female spade terminal) I am assuming this was a factory option that was not purchased originally, and JD chose electrical tape as the OEM insulator Being a knucklehead, I didn't see the panel opening to access the fuses and a spaghetti wire that the PO added for the overhead beacon was holding the panel down where I couldn't dig in. After snipping this and getting good access, there were two blown fuses: RTD/BCON (the overhead beacon had been a hackjob, so was shorted to the frame somewhere), and HAZARD MONITOR (the fuse did not blow, but had melted due to a loose socket/high resistance at the terminal). I have replaced/fixed these and will reassemble and test. I'll update once I know more. Still though, if someone has a diagram it would be greatly appreciated!
Update: After replacing those two fuses and fixing the contacts, I do have two lights when I am approaching the start position of the ignition switch: Oil pressure and alternator volts. Both of these would be expected to be on during startup conditions, and both disappear after the engine starts. I don't think it's going into lamp test mode. Does anyone know if there is a dedicated "lamp test" contact inside the ignition switch? Maybe it has gotten dirty/corroded? Is there a lamp test relay? Perhaps it has failed?
I don't have a schematic of your wiring. But I will say that is how Ford did it on their vehicles. They did have a special contact in there ignition switches that grounded some of the idiot lights to test the bulbs during starting only. Unless JD has some magical way of doing things, I suspect they followed the same way of doing it. All these engineers seem to graduate from the same school of thinking. If you do happen to have a schematic, check out the ignitions switch wiring and see if there is a mysterious ground wire. Most idiot lights are hooked to a pressure or temperature switch, which grounds out during a fault to light up the dash light. The ignition switches can get very complex with many sections to them all hooked together mechanically.
Franklin2, you are a gentleman and a scholar! I was wondering why that ground pole was on the switch, it didn't seem to connect to anything. If I pull that off and short it to ground while in the bulb test position it starts the bulb test. Now I have to figure out why the overheat light isn't coming on. Thank you, it is a bad ignition switch!
7,8,9 and 10 are empty and not used.
mg2361, thank you for checking! Out of curiosity, did you check this on a similar model or did you find it out from a manual?
From the schematic.
Would you mind sharing with me the code of the manual this is in? I assume you have it in paper form, and I would very much like to purchase/get a copy of schematics for this machine.
You can purchase them here. https://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/search?p0=model&p0_v=310D&pattr=p0 John Deere has separate manuals for Operation and testing, repair and engines. Operation and test TM1496, Repair TM1497, Base Engine CTM104, Mechanical Fuel Injection CTM207.