This weekend, the main hyd hose let go on my 953. It's the one on the left side behind the toolbox side plate. It looks to be 1.5-2inch diameter. Any idea what part number that is, and how to replace? Im guessing the cab will need to be raised. Thanks.
Is it shown on this illustration.? No idea as regards R&I, sorry.
Thank Nige, I think it might be #13, but getting to it seems like a bear.
If @Dave Neubert or @Cmark see this maybe they might have some suggestions.
Cat can put a new piece of xt6 hose on your fittings the band around the hose right benind the coupling in picture will have the part number on it. Taking fender off might be easier for you it's only 8 nuts and two plates. I would also drop the belly pan mud is prob going to cause you a problem. I have let belly pans down with a come a long hooked to track pad on each side of tractor
That right there is the tag with the hose Part Number on it. It has a joint on it somewhere. If you carefully remove the tag from the hose you will probably find the back side which has no paint on it will be easier to read.
The local CAT service guy said it is a belly pan removal job to get to it. Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I have full weekend ahead.
Be very careful when removing the guard. It will be a lot heavier than you expect because it will be full of packed dirt, etc. Whatever the manual says for weight, double it. These things have been known to kill people.
I was thinking about the belly pan,it should pivot down from middle joint but beaware it might not do to damage. I alway made sure the rear bolts were good then removed the bolts that are recessed into the pan at joint between the two pans on back pan have what you are going to use to lower pan in place then you can remove rear bolts with out being under it
X2 on this. We dropped the one on our 953C many times. It's heavy, full of mud and oily debris, it will be bent and some of the bolts will be hard to get out. Not sure of your model but there is a small access plate you can remove and use a garden hose to wash some of the accumulated debris out. I wouldn't suggest a power washer due to all the components stuffed in there. Best of luck.
Yep, I've had the pans down before (and swore not to do it again, lol). I typically use a couple of jacks and blocks of wood for safety. Getting them back on is where the swearing starts for me.
In order to prepare yourself for this job, you will need to do some stretches. Have your wife pull both of your arms behind your back as hard as she can while her knee is in the middle of your back. Afterwards, lay over the kitchen counter, have her take her rolling pin and slam it in both armpits. While you are in that position, a couple of swift kicks in the balls. Then the last warm up is to have her run the cheese grater over your fists and fingers until they start to bleed. The above, if you survive it, will have you knowing what to expect when changing this hose. Proceed with caution.
Could be worse you need to try a 973 86g steel mill
That hose can be a bugger to get on if they don’t make it perfect. It is so stiff you may have use a come a long and some bars to get it clamped. I always hook up the motor side first. Good luck
I feel for you. I had the main hose going to the control valve come apart on my 931B. Much smaller machine but still a pain. Some idiot before me used non Cat hose with Cat fittings. To make up the size difference they used pieces of plastic and metal tags. I have a backhoe on my loader and the hose came apart when using the backhoe. Couldn't pull it out with the stabilizers down. Worse yet it was soft ground and the machine sunk where it was very difficult to get the belly pan off. Finally got the belly pan off but had to lay in 60 litres of oil to get the fittings and hose off. I had to lay in the same oil to put the new hose on. Not fun at all.
Got it done. Word of wisdom to my future self, make the hose maker keep the old hose and verify its the same angle before making 2 trips.
Very frustrating when the angle is almost right but not quite. On the 4 wire hose with a natural curve it's critical. That's why I put a swivel fitting on the hose I had to replace laying in the oil under the machine. Also why I made the hose looping around the firewall in 2 parts. Even then I couldn't clamp the hose underneath in the closest clamp. There was a clamp to hold the hose it connected to further back.
That’s the hardest part making a hose, where the natural bend from the roll go the way it needs to go, so you are not fighting the damn bends all the way.