So my baby is sick and I need some help. The warning light (!) is flashing, stage one warning - just the light. Backstory - I changed the fuel filter and it sat for a few days. Cranked it up to move it across the site and the light started flashing. Plugged the computer to it and there was a "fuel pressure" warning code logged. ( I had a friend come over with the software as I do not have it). Pulled the sensor out of the fuel line that runs to the primary fuel filter and put a gauge on it. It read 100 PSI at full throttle, I do not have the info on what the PSI should be. I changed the fuel filter again, pulled the plug at the base of the primary filter and flushed it out with the electric primer. I also broke the fuel line from the primary filter base that runs to the top of the engine - flushed it again. Plenty of fuel is making it to and through the primary filter, however I was not able to flush the line that runs to the top of the engine. After I did this I was thinking it probably was a bad fuel sensor. This sensor is mounted in the line running from the fuel pump to the primary filter base. I changed this sensor and the (!) warning light is still flashing. 3995.5 hours on the clock. Questions - Is there another sensor in the fuel line? I have looked through my parts manual and didn't see anything. After looking through the parts book there is a fuel regulator mounted where the main fuel line that goes from the primary filter into the top of the engine, at least that's what the schematic shows. I am not sure what it's function is. My worst fear is the fuel pump is going out. The filters are changed every 250 hours and all fuel that goes into the loader is filtered from my slip tank. I run a fuel additive as well and I try to keep my fuel as clean as possible. Any help would be appreciated. I am not mechanically inclined, my skills encompass the user end of yellow iron.
If you have access to ET it should have a screen that gives you engine readings, look for fuel pressure "actual" and "desired" Have no manuals but might get near some tomorrow, I trust the letters above are serial# prefix. Later Bob
CM1955 you can jumper the sensor wires accross if it is a 2 wire sensor and the light should go out. if it still does not then it could be either the wiring up to the monitor in the cab or the monitor itself. good luck.
Thanks Bob. Yes this is a 953C BBX serial number series. Kbeen it's a 3 wire sensor and I have already changed out that one. The 953C's don't have a monitor just a set of warning lights.
Your fuel pressure is GOOD, manual says 66PSI but you checked at high idle and they some times refer to full load values, that would be lower due to amount of fuel being burned. To check the wiring, get a RED tool to release wires from their connector, Get a couple they are plastic and can break. Then you can replace the wire if broken. Check for continuity from socket #16 on the engine ECM connector to the signal wire at the sender's plug on the harness. I think the wire is 991 pink. If it's bad you can get the dealer to crimp a couple of ends onto a length of wire and then tie it onto the harness. That's were you need the tool, to get ends out of connectors. Later Bob
CM, can you find out exactly what the Code is/was..? These codes refer to the Electronic Control to which the component "talks", the Component itself, and the Failure Mode. For a Fuel Pressure Sensor in the Engine Control the Code should look something like MID 036 (Engine Control), CID 0289 (or 0460 depending if the sensor is before or after the filter), FMI 01 or 02 or something like that. Get me the Code that's active on your machine and I'll find you a procedure to troubleshoot it using nothing more than a voltage/resistance tester.
There is a check valve and fitting on the back of the head where the fuel exits. These either break, jamb or get clogged with a peice of debris. When this happens you get high fuel pressure and this faul light. I have seen this twice myself. Remove the check and the elbow and flush the head with the primer pump.
Bob, that's what we did today. Made a jumper from the fuel pressure sensor by the primary (I said secondary early but i was wrong, I got the fuel-water separator and primary backwards) and plugged it in. Threw an oil pressure warning. The blue and brown wires (if I remember correctly) also somehow feeds power or signal to the oil pressure sensor. Spliced those two into the jumper ( I have not cut or altered the factory wiring harness) and the oil pressure warning went off. However it is still showing a warning light - I'll be back into to it tomorrow and will get the code. Nige the two codes I wrote down were 036 and 94.03. The sensor I changed is before the primary filter after the fuel pump. Could it be the wiring harness? I hope it's not that but I am thinking it may be. Thanks for your help and input Nige.
Lee I was posting when you replied. Is this check valve located where the fuel line enters the head? I saw in the parts book there is a fuel pressure regulator located where the fuel line enters the head at the front of the engine, which would be the rear of the machine. In this area there is an accumulation of oily dirt/dust. I followed the fuel line to this location but it's hard to see anything without taking the rear engine enclosure/hood off. I am just thinking that when I changed the primary filter some trash may have gotten into the filter base. I try to be as clean as possible when doing a service but things happen. The reason being is this code appeared after I changed the filter. This is a BBX 700-800 serial range. Thank you for your help Lee.
CM, your Code makes perfect sense. MID036 is the Engine Control, CID094 is the "Fuel Delivery Pressure Sensor", & FMI03 is "voltage above normal" - in other words open/shorted to battery +. There is a generic troubleshooting procedure for this fault for any engine sensor. It's far too long to post here so if you want it please let me know. It's sitting on my desktop as an Adobe pdf file ready to e-mail to you. I can't remember if I ever sent you the Electrical Schematic previously for your machine. If not please PM me an e-mail address and I will fire it off to you at the same time. I will need your exact Serial Number though, there are 3 possible options for different S/N ranges. And now - in the word of the famous ring announcer - Good Fight - Good Night ...........
Thanks a bunch Nige!:drinkup PM sent.
The check valve is called the REGULATOR GP-FUEL PRESSURE. On some engines it is on the front and on some its on the rear of the engine according to parts pictures but i have only seen it on the rear. Its function is to maintain fuel pressure in the head to supply the injectors. It also stops the head from draining when the machine is shut off. I dont know the range of the pressure sensor but if it maxes out then due to the clogged check then it would show it as a fault, probably a short to batt.
This is just General Interest here for you guys and everyone else that is following the topic. If you have a three wire sensor you can check the wiring and gauge or whatever it's hooked to with a Position Sensor. They will run the readout through it's range when you dial it full up and full down. If the gauge or moniter sweeps good the sensor is bad. Later Bob
We use potentiometers ( from paver screeds) manipulate the inputs to the ecm. Example, you need 140Deg to run a calibration. Unplug the sensor and dial it so you get the reading you want.
Here is the check on the engine. #10 is pointing to the hose that connects to it. It is at the bottom of the pic.
Right on Lee. More should know this. Later Bob
Thanks Lee. That is not the one I was thinking of, will check it today. I know which one that is.
CM you have mail .........
thanks for all the replies. i had an accident that set me back a while last friday. the problem was a plugged fuel line don't know which one as i was away from the site due to the ER visit. all is good just have one hand to type with for a couple of weeks. the loader is working fine no codes, although i haven't had the opportunity to run it other than it being stationary at full throttle. thanks again for the help and all the comments and suggestions have been stored away in my noggin' for future reference.
Loader has had no codes thrown until today. I have a 30 and a 0324.05. Only two codes show up.
Thats a code for the action lamp current low or open. Is the bulb burnt out on the dash? If so unscrew the red lens and remove the bulb from the front. I can do it with my thumb if i wear a rubber glove.
Thanks Lee.:thumbsup I'll check it Monday and see. The bulb on the left is working normal upon startup. The code didn't come on again but I only ran it 15 mins or so walking it across the site. If the lamp is good, where else should I start looking?
Thats a simple circuit so either its the bulb or wiring, the bulb is either burnt out or it popped out of the socket. (push and twist ) When you turn the key on it should light momentarily. The left is the park brake lamp, right is the action lamp.
Here's the Diagnostic Procedure ....... This diagnostic code is recorded when the main display module reads the current of the circuit for the action lamp and the current is below normal. The action lamp does not light as a result of this diagnostic code. The schematic that is shown above represents a typical installation of the component. Verify the connector contact and wire numbers by using the Electrical System Schematic for the machine that is being serviced. Test Step 1. CHECK THE LAMP. At the action lamp, use a jumper to connect wire 411-PK to frame ground. Expected Result: The CID 0324 FMI 05 is no longer present. Results: OK - The CID 0324 FMI 05 is no longer present. The lamp (bulb) or the lamp socket is open. Repair: Replace the action lamp. NOTE: For the purposes of this test, the correct resistance for a known good lamp is less than 200 ohms. STOP NOT OK - The CID 0324 FMI 05 is still present. The action lamp is not causing the diagnostic code. Proceed to test step 2. Test Step 2. CHECK THE HARNESS. Turn the disconnect switch and the key start switch to the OFF position. Remove the jumper from wire 411-PK to frame ground. Make sure that the action lamp is connected to the machine harness. Disconnect the machine harness from the main display module. At the machine harness connector for the main display module, measure the resistance between contact 13 (411-PK) and frame ground. Expected Result: The resistance is greater than 100 ohms. Results: OK - The resistance is greater than 100 ohms. The harness circuit is open. Proceed to test step 3. NOT OK - The resistance is less than 100 ohms. The harness circuit resistance is correct. Replace the main display module. Repair: It is unlikely that the main display module has failed. Exit this procedure and perform this procedure again. Also, recheck if the diagnostic code indicator is illuminated for this diagnostic code. If the cause of the diagnostic code is not found, replace the main display module. See Testing and Adjusting, "Module - Replace". STOP Test Step 3. CHECK THE HARNESS. At the action lamp, disconnect wire 411-PK from the lamp socket. Check for open circuit in the 411-PK wire. Check between contact 13 of the harness connector for the main display module and the lamp socket. Check for an open circuit in the 201-BK ground wire. Check between the lamp socket and the frame ground. Expected Result: The circuits are correct. Results: OK - The circuits are correct. STOP NOT OK - The circuits are NOT correct. Repair: Repair the harness or replace the harness. STOP
Thanks Nige for the detailed troubleshooting procedure.:drinkup I am hoping it's doesn't get that involved, as my mechanic skills are novice at best but getting better through "baptism by fire". Thanks for the help guys.
It's been a busy week. Both lights good, action lamp cycles on during startup. The "!" flashed again while running and same code 30 , 324.5. I dropped the dash and checked the connections to the light socket. I wiggled one side, slightly loose but probably not culprit. I did not have enough time to run the diagnostic. When referencing "repair/replace the harness", is that referring to the hardness in the dash or the primary harness coming to the dash? I guess it could be either or both..
Give me some time. I'll send you the illustration that accompanies the diagnostic above. I did send you the complete electrical schematic previously, correct ..? I would look at that and see how many harness connectors (they are all shown) exist between the component and the electronic control. That's the first place I'd go looking to see if they are tight and clean with no corrosion. for the purpose of the diagnostic effectively the "wiring harness" is considered to be anything between the electronic monitor system control, and the dash lamp.
Yes Nige, I have the electrical schematic and I appreciate that. I'll admit it's a little Greek to me but I'll study it, if was a site plan it wouldn't be a problem. I had a mechanic plug the laptop in when I had the other issue and there was a low voltage code logged. The fuel pressure sensor also showed a low voltage code and now the lamp shows a low voltage code. Could there be another issue that is throwing these codes? An alternator going out that is spiking/dropping voltage? The alternator is original with 4k hours on it.
CM, since this thread has got more into codes and electrical trouble, I better share this. We had a good used 973 last spring that would go wonkey and stop traveling ocassionally, and for sure if the heater or AC was turned on. The main cab ground strap was good and well connected, the Ground Cluster on the other side of the cab near the ECM was well connected. For some reason the continuity between the cluster and the cab ground cable was not very good, not good enough to handle the amps of the heater blower motor. This machine came to our area used and we have no history on it. It may have been a rebuilt fire dammaged machine. Anyway I grounded the Cluster connection to the tractor frame with an 8 ga. wire and the problem went away. Don't know if this will help you or not? Later Bob
Thanks Bob. I was thinking about this thread this morning and the fact I probably needed to change the title in case other members are having error code issues as well. Back to the 953, appreciate the info. I was suspecting an alternator or other culprit not the wiring harness or component. Like I said before, my forte' is moving the dirt not fixing the machine, so I may be way off. I am just don't want to throw parts and money at something that might not be the issue. I will check the grounds for corrosion/connections, thanks to Nige I know where they are all located now. There is a ground in the dash and the headliner. I remember reading a thread here on HEF about a Cat 416 /420 backhoe that someone had electrical gremlins in and turned out it was a bad ground in the headliner. :beatsme
The 030 code came back up today. I shut the loader off and re-started it, ran it for over an hour and it didn't come back on. I am thinking it's the action lamp circuit, probably the bulb or socket that isn't completing the circuit if I understand the diagnostic procedure correctly. I pulled the dash and checked the connections this afternoon at shutdown and the connections were tight. The bulb on the action lamp does have some play in it, which could be the culprit.:beatsme Thoughts? Second issue - backup alarm. It works intermittently. I replaced the backup beeper a couple of months ago as the original one quit working all together. The replacement is an aftermarket one I bought at the Cat dealer because it was 1/2 the cost of OEM. I cut the factory wiring harness/connector off the old backup alarm and fitted standard round connections to attach to the new alarm. I check the connections, just the standard post and nut connection and it was a little loose. Tightened the nuts at the connection and still no alarm when I put it into reverse. I didn't run it in reverse for a long distance. Where is the relay/switch that sends the signal while the machine is in reverse to the alarm? Could that be the culprit? I wouldn't be to concerned over a non-working backup alarm but we are currently working on a high profile commercial project and it needs to work. Thanks in advance as you all have been a wealth of advice!:drinkup
The backup alarm should be fed from the ECM that controls the travel. Two things about those circuits, they moniter the load(alarm and wire) and will shut it off if it doesn't think the circuit is good( open or shorted) and the alarm is polarity sensitive. Later Bob
The action lamp is still coming on intermittently. I have code 030, 324.5 and 079. I am going to check the main ground at the cab for corrosion, etc. The lamp and bulb are operational in the dash. Thoughts?
CM, are you still having issues with your backup alarm..? Like Bob says this alarm gets its signal from the ECM and the circuit is monitored by said ECM for both continuity and load. If the "will-fit" back alarm has different enough characteristics to the OEM alarm then the ECM may be detecting an issue in the circuit due to this. Could you get hold of an OEM backup alarm for a test..? It sounds like you could have 2 different codes, maybe related, maybe not. MID030 CID324 is the Action Lamp Circuit. There should also be a Failure Mode (FMI) as part of the same code, anything from 01 to 13. MID079 is the Power Train Electronic Control. Need CID & FMI information for that code. Someone (could have been Bob/Ont) posted on another thread that in a case he'd seen the issue was ground connections behind the headliner in the cab IIRC.
Thanks for the reply Nige, I hadn't thought of the aftermarket alarm could be the issue. I can rob an alarm off of one of the other Cats and give it a test. I assume an alarm from a 420 or D5 would work? Come to think of it, I think the error code came up after I replaced the alarm but I've had a lot on my mind lately so that might not be the case. I am not working on the job the loader is on at the moment, I'll go through diagnostics when I get back there.
Dont know about any one else but were seeing C models that are chafing the harnesses at bolt clamp points and causing intermittent problems and stored but not active codes
I have had the rear harness replaced, the one that services the right side of the engine. I hope it's not another harness. My C is a BBX model, 2004 MY.
The drivers in the ECM for the back up alarm can fail over time. Re flashing has fixed this by swapping to a different driver circuit. 321 white will be the + wire at the alarm, brown is the ground side. After market alarm should be ok as long as its 24v.
OK I got the codes that are current. 030 0324.5 079 1869.13 That is the order the codes flash on the screen.
Ok, your codes are: - 030 324 05 - Monitor System - Action Lamp - current below normal. Often related a bad contact/cut wire in the lamp signal circuit. 079 1869 13 - Trans control - Speed & Direction Lever Position Sensor - requires calibration. That should be easy as you already have the Scroll, Clear, & Calibrate switches hard-wired into the machine.
Once again thanks Nige.:drinkup So should I just replace the lamp circuit in the dash? I have checked the connections and the bulb and their is nothing I can see that looks damaged. Also I am not familiar with the calibration, do you have the procedure? Thanks in advance.
PM me your e-mail address. I'll send you the calibration procedure. Also the Diagnostic Procedure for the Action Lamp circuit.
Update - I replaced the position sensor on the steering lever column that activates the backup alarm and the alarm works now all the time. $300 and change for this little sensor to make the loader go beep - beep.. Working on a crowded commercial site, you gotta have it. Nige, email sent. I haven't noticed a change in operation of the speed/direction control lever but I would like to have the calibration procedure.
Yhm