rubber drive couplers between motor and trans keep breakin 2 sets already can anyone help?have machine for 8yrs and just started to happen now...
If the rear engine mounting bolts are good its a sure bet the front nose mount is worn, to test remove the knackered drive couplers and pull off transmission flange, fix a dog leg shaped bit of welding rod via a worm drive clip to the stub shaft so it is just touching the flywheel at about 3 or 9 0clock, then rotate it and see how it stands for true, or use a dial gauge (DTI) instead of the bent up bit of welding rod, then when things are running tidy check for central line, the common cause is rear mount bolts broken or loose right hand rear as sat in the seat is a usual snag.
thanks tctractor big help will check that out on the weekend..
You first need to shim the rear mounts untill you have less than 0.080" run out around the circumference of the drive disc, will require some sideshifting too. Get it as close to 0.000" as you can. Then you need to shim and sideshift the front mounts untill you have less than 0.026" runout around the face of the drive disc. Again as close to 0.000" the better. For rear shim size use 1/2 the measured vertical runout. 12:00 and 6:00. For front shim size use three times the vertical measured runout 12:00 and 6:00 Later Bob
On old bangers that front mounting will be mullered so all that shimming etc will not cure the dance effect so check it out before you break out the Lazer tooling.
If everything is tight and lined up properly they should last a long long time. They went out on our L at the bottom of a very muddy basement. I really felt sorry for the poor field mechanic. He had to shovel a trench to lay in so he could install a couple pucks and then babied it out of the hole so he could do it right. Of course it was miles from any other machine.