Hi all! i’m hoping someone can give me some guidance on how to diagnose a problem I’m having with my Jake brake on my truck. it had stopped working after I brought it to a shop to get the oil psi gauge fixed and plumbed in. it turns out it was because of a wire that had a bad connection so I replaced the wire and the Jake brake started working again however it seems like it always works initially but any prolonged use like if I were to turn it on on a long hill it stops working after a few seconds it always seems like whenever I actually need the Jake brake it’s not working at that moment I will include a couple of pictures some more information I can give you is that the fuel breakaway rod is currently broken. I will include a picture of that the wire that I repaired and a picture of where the shop showed me some of the wires for the Jake brake where . It seems like it’s just not registering that my foot is off the accelerator. I will include a couple of pictures but that’s about all the information that I can think of any guidance and where to start would be greatly appreciated As a afterthought could it be a throttle position sensor? THANKS!!!
So there's a bunch of things that can be going wrong...............electrical, oil supply to the jake brake, and the internals of the jake brake itself (springs, pistons, oil check valves, etc). So the jake starts working but then cuts out after a few seconds?? Does it ever kick back in after a minute or so?? Or it just stays off?? So............here is what I would do if this were me (which it was not too long ago). You should have 2 wires ( I'm guessing, shooting from the hip on this engine.........haven't researched it yet) going into the valve cover or just below it going to the jake brake. I'd hook up a multimeter, with the wires still connected to the jake solenoid valve (you want to measure voltage under load...........measuring voltage without the load can lie to you......if you have 1 little strand of wire, it could show vehicle voltage but as soon as you put it under load it will go to nothing). Take it for a drive and measure the voltage while engaging the jake brake. When the jake stops working, do you still have voltage?? Or does the voltage drop to nothing or close too it?? Where in NH are you located??
That is not a jake it is a exhaust break. All the switches do is operate the valve in the center right of your second picture. It then ***** a butterfly valve in the exhaust after the turbo. The butterfly valve could be hanging up when it's hot The valve may be getting weak when the solenoid gets hot. I was looking at the pictures thinking thats a rust free truck truck then remembered that I live in Pennsylvania and most trucks with a 8.3 in them are piles of iron oxide by now.
Yes, huge difference in an exhaust brake and a Jake brake.
Those air/solenoid valves are the same used for a air operated fan hub. Disconnect the air line going to exhaust brake/ flip switch to make sure you have steady air supply to exhaust brake.
What is the manufacturer of the exhaust brake? Memory is sketchy now but we had a FL with one that the butterfly would physically hang up even though the air and electrics worked right. I think it was Pacbrake and they paid us warranty to replace the whole unit.
Either Pacbrake or Blue Ox.
Most likely a Jacobs E brake. Check the air cylinder on the exhaust valve, they will either leak or stick. Bob
yah I live in NH!!!!! its a 1998 but has never seen a winter on the road.
Ill investigate and let you know what make it is
yes some times it kicks back in if I hit the brake pedal hard. Southern NH danville
I had no idea I thought they were the same thing. I learn so much from you guys
Just on a diffrent subject anyone know how big a winch I would want to install on my tag trailer? I want to be able to pull 15,ooo machines on my trailer if need be. I looked online some people say I should have a winch capacity 1.5 times the weight of what I want to pull others say a 12,000 wich will pull a 20,000 machine on a trailer. sorry guys totally off subject thats my adhd kicking in lol. I asked for one for fathers day and was hoping to know how big of one I should get
12,000 and use a snatch block.
I just picked this up on your advice!!!! now do I have to anchor the snatch block or can I just put hook on snatch block hook to machine and hook winch end to my trailer by winch. also what way would you go for a mount? custom weld one, or just the trailer receiver winch mount and weld trailer reciver to my trailer?
Yep, block hooked to machine, and end of cable hooked back near winch doubles pulling power. I would be leery of a receiver hitch for 12,000 winch because of the possibility of side pull.
I was feeling the same way!!!!!! I have seen lots of people online just weld a 2" receiver to there trailer then get this mount in the picture
A place I worked had one of those for the Sno-Cat. It could be attached to both ends of the machine. Then never managed to bend it. The 12000 Lb pull of the winch is with one layer of rope on the drum. Every additional layer reduces the pull.
Just keep in mind that if your anchoring the hook to the same structural member as the winch is connected to, that structural member needs to be able to with stand a MINIMUM of 24,000 lbs. So it needs to be substantial. Might want to plan on beefing up whatever stock steel is on that trailer. Just my thoughts......seen bad things happen with cranes and cables.
That is a 12k# recovery winch, not a 12k# pull. It can drag a 12k# truck out of the mud. I have it on a winch truck with gin poles with 2 snatch blocks. I can pick up vertically around 3-4k with it. It's probably around 1-2k dead lift winch. Keep the power leads short and too a battery and it can drag a lot on your trailer.
So after further testing it only stops working when motor is hot (180+) so I think the butterfly valve is hanging up how do I confirm that?
Also…. I finished the custom winch mount!!!
Define "stops working". Bob
I assume it has 1/4 inch air line to the little piston. I would disconnect it from there and run it into the cab with some more 1/4 inch line or whatever you have laying around. Then drive it and get it real hot (you will have no exhaust brake during this time) and attempt to apply it and you should still have the same amount of air whooshing out the line as you do when cold and attempting to apply.
I flip the switch on and the Jake brake does not come on.
I will admit sometimes things go over my head on this forum but that was a perfect explanation I will try that ASAP.
Start the truck and build air pressure, turn motor off and turn key back on. Turn brake on,air gauge should flicker. Turn brake off should hear cyl. release and air exhaust. with brake on push throttle, same noise throttle off push clutch same noise. Or have someone watch exhaust valve. Warm motor up to where it quits working and repeat checks. Bob