hey somehow i got myself into working on this cat 980g at work and not having any information on this is not helping me....i have no hydraulics, no steering, no loader bucket etc etc. and also the machine will not move...what would cause them both to quit at the same time? what should be first diagnosis step be? being a case technician the systems seem pretty different
A s/n would help a lot or at least the prefix like: 2KR----- Are there any active codes showing on the dash cluster? Look for "SERV CODE" in the panel to the right side of dash where the hour meter is located. Fuses could be a problem, just guessing with out more info. The fuses should be under the cover with the screw knob on it by your right elbow while sitting in the operators seat. Also look in the pouch on the back of the seat, should be an operators/maintenance manual there. Should be unless some one cut the cable! I'm guessing you don't have access to Cat ET on a laptop? Then there is the questions I usually ask first, when did this problem start? Have you ever seen it work? Is it making any strange noises? Was any work done on it shortly before this problem started? Any buzzers or flashing lights? Answer as many if not all the above questions and I have a feeling someone if not myself will give you ideas on which way to start looking. Any chance you have some pressure gauges and the correct coupler to hook to the many test ports on thins machine?
unfortunately working at the Case dealer we don't have any access to cat software or service manuals...honestly my boss just asked me if i can come in tomorrow for some o/t and start pulling the engine out....i think that sounds little crazy without knowing whats going on, being a mechanic i will defiantly start it up for myself and see if i hear anything abnormal I'm very familiar with the 3406 truck engines, so tomorrow i can get the s/n and your saying the codes will display on the cluster by the hour meter correct? i do not believe there has been work done recently to it this machine lives in a sand plant and i believe the local cat dealer does most of the work to it making me question why its at a case dealer now...i do have gauges and adapters so connecting gauges should not be a problem as of now this is all i know until i actually start looking at in tomorrow, just a quick question for you my boss seems to think there is a accessory gear drive that powers both transmission and hydraulic pumps does this sound right? i will be sure to answer theses questions tomorrow...thanks for your help
Did the boss tell you to diagnose it, or take the engine out? Does the boss know more than he told you?
the boss thinks he's a superstar that knows everything, he hasn't looked at it either...road guy went out looked at it verified it doesn't move and sent it to the shop....commonsense is not to common
Guess not. He might be right? I can't help there.
he is right that it doesn't move haha I'm gonna look at it tomorrow see if i can figure out anything i just talked to him and he agreed we should take a further look into it instead of just pulling the engine ill keep you posted
Yes, the transmission and hydraulic pumps share the same drive. Quick and dirty check; do you have brake pressure? If the warning light is off and the parking brake will release then you do have pressure and the hydraulic pumps (but not necessarily the transmission pump) are spinning. I'd be looking for an electrical problem first. Be aware that the transmission and implements have separate ECMs.
awesome thanks for your advice its greatly appreciated
Another thing I might try to check is transmission pump pressure. Point "E" in picture on the filter head. Ball park pressure should be 350-380 psi. This would tell you the pump is turning. How did this machine get to your shop? Seems like it must have moved somehow or did they use a big fork truck?
Pushed on lowboy and pulled off here is some info I got s/n is 2kr04273 980g 35938 hrs Codes are 030 0177.08 030 0821.04 030 0819.02 Serve code 081 0168.01 081 0622.05 074 0350.13 082 0168.01 Checked all fluid levels first all good...Machine does not build brake pressure also No hydraulic lines are getting hot/warm I did hear a grinding noise coming from a pump driving from the flywheel housing but the noise is only present near the center pins or in front over the engine also the noise is associated with a vibration in the line the blue marked pump and the line is what I'm referring to ialso have a decent size hydraulic leak telling me the pump is doing something I will begin plumbing a gauge into the teams test port as u have shown me there is a quick gauge plug on the in side of that housing but I believe the picture u provided is referring to the out side of the housing thank you
Transmission charge pressure is 380psi
Ok. All good information. If I understand your last post, "serv code" is lighting up when the last four codes are displayed, right? If so then the relevant ones are 081-0168.01 and 082-0168.01. They are for low voltage to the transmission and implement ECMs, respectively. Are you having to jump start the machine? What's the battery voltage when running? I have a hunch that if you can get 24v to the ECMs, your machine will come to life. The problem may be no more than a faulty alternator. The 030 codes relate to the display modules getting low voltages and bad information, but they work on a 9v rail so don't get too hung up on these at this stage. 081-0622.05 is a problem with the upshift pushbutton switch. 074-0350.13 is the loader arm position sensor out of calibration. None of these are relevant to your main problem, I think.
Also FYI the hyd line with the blue paint blob is, I think, the main implement supply line (or maybe steering?) I can't work out what the last picture of the oily thing is. Is it the last pump on the stack-up on the engine side of the bellhousing? If so, then that's the pilot pump which supplies pressure for the implement pilot system and brakes.
Same here a little description of this picture. It's so caked with dirt and oil I can't make out what it is. What was screwed on to the threaded end? What ever it is it should not look like that!
Guessing here but is that picture of the parking brake actuator? Mounted just to the right of the driveshaft a bit ahead of the center pins. Don't think so cause the actuator has one line that goes to the center, got me stumped. If you had asked me 2 or 3 days ago I might run up the road and look at one of the two 980G 2KR's sitting there but Friday morning I turned in my keys to the gate as Thursday was my last day before retirement, or as the nice lady in HR refered to it in an email, My termination day! Nice one Judy after 45 years I get terminated not retired? But that's not this guys problem Just let us know what this picture is of or at least where on the machine and where this oil leak you mentioned is. Cmark is probably right on the mark(no pun intended) with the low voltage being one if not the only real problem to most of this.
Being the son of a man that pulled wrenches all his life, I can tell you that maybe the HR lady didn't have any respect for your craft, but there are probably lots of guys like myself that depend on guys like you to keep our gear movin so we can keep the pay check rollin in.
Well she is just one small link in a chain of this company of people with the same attitude, too bad they don't understand that it's the guys at the bottom who make the money that pays their pay check. If the pit loader don't run the operator can't load the haul trucks, the crusher operator can't turn the shot rock into product for the 980G to load on the customer who writes the check to turn stone into money. She sits in an office half the country away shopping online on company time and doing her nails and can't be bothered to say nice things to me and my fellow workers! Anyhow back to the important stuff need to get a bit more info on this 980G. I'm betting it something simple once we figure it out. They seem to be good machines but the electronics can be fussy about proper voltage and calibration of controls and sensors. Feel bad for the OP as I'm sure he has no way of talking to the guy who was running it when the problem started.
Okay guys thanks for all the information I figured out the oily thing it is the park brake actuator I didn't think about checking the alternator but yes I had to jump start this morning I went out and found a blown 20a fuse coming from the batt post from alt going to a solenoid next the the main power shut off and a wire from the r post on the alt green wire number 2011-2017 with only 3 strands of wire holding it to the connector I repair the wire? Can't make the numbers out rpm gauge now works and the battery light is out now i have these codes listed 030 0177.07 030 0248.02 030 0819.02 030 0821.04 074 0350.14 074 0820.02 081 0168.01 081 0622.05 082 0168.01 082. 0296.09 Also the green wire I was referring to on the r post of alternator is reading 13.50vdc while The alternator battery post is now putting out 27.48vdc is this correct? Also I still am not building brake pressure Thanks again and congratulations on your retirement!
first off I want to thank everyone for there help on my 980g issue after fixing the wire's and fuses to the alternator and the RPM gauge worked and the battery light went out I put alittle air pressure to the hydraulic tank and found a loose suction line, the cause of the cavitation noise from the blue marked hose I referred to in one of my posts after I tightened the fitting the machine came to life...I test ran for about 45mins and tomorrow the operator is coming down to run the machine and make sure its running at its full potential again thank you if anyone has any problems with a case machine please don't hesitate to ask me questions ill do everything I can to help you as you helped me :usa
Casetech7, glad to hear the kitty is working again! Still trying to figure out what that part is in the picture that looks like a cap or hose is missing off it.
you were correct on that picture it is the parking actuator that line next to it was off of it and should have been going to the fitting on top of the actuator the road guy disconnected that to get it to move onto the trailer i believe the top of the actuator is leaking the operator is coming tomorrow to test run it since I'm not familiar with how the machine should feel and dig just to be 100% sure...ill talk to him tomorrow about it, apparently there is another hyd pump on the back side of the engine flywheel housing next to the transmission the suction line was loose from that and leaking when air pressure was applied to the hyd tank, after talking to the owner of the sand plant/machine he said oh yeah thats happened on this machine several times and CAT came out and changed several suction lines due to them collapsing...but they wouldn't reveal that info before today i was told all they said was its broke fix it....gotta love being a mechanic
The parking brake is spring applied, hydraulic release so removing the line from the actuator would do nothing to help. The only way to move a dead machine is to either apply hydraulic pressure to the actuator or disconnect the clevis on the end of the actuator rod. If the machine was rolling and the clevis was connected then the parking brake is faulty. I personally would beware sending it back to the customer like that unless you make it clear in writing that he is aware of the fault.
the park brake holds the machine i believe he used the shop hydraulic hand pump to release the park brake thats what i gathered this morning from him
You got to love it the your boss wanted to pull the engine, when it was just a loose hose. WOW
Excellent work a good mechanic always questions the boss I have two of those 980g in the fleet so its good to know what can take them down
Okay, that make more sense! That brake has adjusted just like old drum brakes on cars, a bit tricky to get to the cog wheel but can be done from front side. But if the brake drum and shoes are as nasty as the actuator looks I 'm not sure how good it could work! The burnishing in procedure for new shoes surprised me when I read it. Note: Replacement brake shoes must be burnished. In order to burnish the brake shoes, make three successive stops from third speed forward at maximum speed. Allow the parking brake to cool to ambient temperature after the third stop. Knowing how well that brake works at slow speeds had me hesitating to snap it on while running flat out in 3rd the first time! And while we are talking about this parking brake, test procedure is as follows: Note: The following step will produce a Warning Category 3. The parking brake indicator will turn ON and the master action light will flash. The action alarm will sound. Engage the parking brake. Change upshift gear speed switch (2) to THIRD SPEED. Change transmission direction control switch (3) to the FORWARD position, while the AUTO shift switch is in the OFF position. Gradually increase the engine speed to high idle. The machine should not move.