Got a 6 way blade angle cylinder leaking that I need to get fixed. Hyro shop told me more than likely the pin on the c frame will be hopelessly froze and will not come out without a major fight.(they were right) They told me best thing to do is raise the blade all the way up and extend the leaking cylinder in question. Next bleed off the pressure on it and pull the pin on the blade...Reason being to uncap said cylinder and pull the shaft out leaving the barrel on the c frame. That's sounds all good...however getting the cylinder uncapped is another story. I already broke a chain wrench trying to break it free...and I don't have a pipe wrench with a 4ft. long handle that will grip up to 6in wide. I do have access to a much larger one that I will try Monday. What do yall use to spin these 5in end caps off the cylinders? And or how your yall go about removing the rusted froze up pin on the c frame itself? This heavy equipment thing is new to me. Any and all advice appreciated. thanks
Pulling that pin can be quite an adventure. There is a tapped hole in the top of the pin. First you need a piece of gr 8 allthread that will screw in there, after you run a tap in the hole. I think the last 6 I pulled those pins on I had a 100 ton thru - hole cylinder on there. There are 2 pins in there if I remember correctly. One on top of the other. They do come out and quite easily if you have access to all the tooling needed.
The pin on the blade slipped right out.(I think it helps that the tilt cylinder had a fitting leaking right on top of it for who knows how long. My big concern now is even with a larger chain wrench and a 6ft cheater bar, will cylinder end cap break free and unscrew?? or will I need some heat on it ???? its been apart before...someone hammered it up
Well, then it was your lucky day. I don't remember if those glands were locked with a set screw. Check and make sure there isn't one somewhere. You can put a bit of heat on it but don't go nuts. Better way to go is take a medium sized ball pien hammer and with pressure on the nut start tapping the barrel all around the threads. It may take a few minutes but I never liked heating cylinders does more harm that good.
If you decide against pulling the pin and want to remove the gland what I’ve done in the past is weld some tabs on the gland that you can smack with a 4lb or similar handle. I make them from some scrap 1” plate and cut them in a curve so that you have good contact with the gland. Often it just takes one to break it. By doing this you accomplish two things, lots of heat and the shock of smacking the **** out of it. More often than not once you smack it loose you can spin it the rest of the way off. I generally weld the tab on and let it cool to the touch before I go to beating on it. If you were closer I’ve got a 60 ton hollow ram.....good luck Edit, some glands are material that don’t weld well but they’re generally on older stuff. I’ve yet to have issues with this method.
This is a perennial question on the pins for this type of blade. Some good info in this thread ............ HeavyEquipmentForums
Due to my lack of terminology, my original post could have been misleading. It's the gland I'm referring to and the pin that attaches this cylinder to c frame itself. See pix
You can reseal without removing the barrel from the c frame. If the polish rod pin comes out and you can break the gland loose you’re golden.
I have similar cylinders on my 4 in 1 bucket I need to reseal. I bought a used Ridgid 4' pipe wrench for $100 that hopefully loosen the gland nuts with a long snipe. I took my bucket cylinders in and it cost $1754 to have them rebuilt. They said they needed to be re-chromed. Even if I can just take the shafts in should save me a bunch of money. Make sure to mark where the gland nut is tightened before trying to loosen it. Someone else even suggested counting how many turns it's threaded on.
Think im going to put some heat on it today (nothing like glowing..just warm it up some) then strap the 4ft handle chain wrench on it plus rap it a few times with a hammer while putting pressure on it. If that fails...then repeat but with a added 6-7ft cheater bar!
UPDATE...got the gland unscrewed.(No Heat) After some wrangling and releasing hydro suction pressure, I got the shaft out of the barrel...and the piston off the shaft too. Just about every seal in the gland side was in sad shape. no wonder it leaked so much. Just waiting on a seal kit now. Thanks for the advice guys
Sweet. Glad to hear it wasn’t too bad!
success! a minor victory! angle cylinder is fixed. just cost me a seal kit. now moving on to other projects ive got planned for it