Well Im back with a few more questions and looking for the experienced to guide the new guy (me) in the right direction. First I am trying to figure out if my hoe bucket has bushings that can be replaced? I am hoping it does cause it looks like it might need them. I am hoping the pins arent worn that bad that they need to be replace because there are no bushings on the bucket end. I attached pictures so you guys can see what Im talking about. I will upload 2 more pictures in the next post. They are to big to fit in one post. This is a 2000 John Deere 410E backhoe loader. Now for question #2 When I bought this backhoe it didnt have a hydrolic cap on the reserve tank (they had a rubber glove stuffed in there) And the hydr oil was its normal golden yellowish clear color. So when I saw this I went out and bought a 3 inch clean out drain plug (which is almost the same a OEM but $45 cheaper) I thought I was good but a few weeks later I just opened it to check on the oil and it was milky in the fill neck. Still looks clear and yellow in the site glass just milky in the neck and screen filter. What I did notice the water was building up under the cap and dripping into the hydr fluid in the neck. Why is this happening? Im not using the machine much at all just fixing little things that I want fixed on it so I my just start it for 10 min every other week or so. I did call JD parts store and asked them if the OEM cap is vented thinking that might be the reason the condensation isnt getting out of there but they said it dosnt look like it is vented. I know there is a filter on the neck (which I did order a new one and its coming) that I think works like a one way valve but when I took mine off and blow into either end air went through it both ways. So now I dont know until I get the new one if it works like a relief valve and only lets the moisture out and not back into the tank. Any ideas would be very helpful. Thank you in advanced.
Here are the 2 other pictures of the bucket and pins. I know you cant see much on the second picture but I didnt know if that side would help.
No bushings in the bucket ears. The ideal way to repair that would be weld up the bores and line bore it. The bucket is small enought that it could be put on a milling machine and rebored as to using a line boring system. Don't know what access you have to any of these service. I am sure to the pins will be worn also along with the bushings in the end of the stick.
Thats what I was afraid of. I can have it weld by my neighbor cause he has all those welders he is going to weld a thumb on that I order next month. The honing part is the problem because Im sure he wont have something like that. But I will ask. I guess I should start pricing out new pins and bushings for the stick end too. Any good after market recommendation? Or should I just go with OEM JD?
There are many ways around this. The big things is - Do you make a living with this machine or is it just for some work of your own?
Oh no I will NOT make a living with this machine. I bought some property and plan on building my retirement home there, and I plan on shipping it there and it will live out my life and machine lifes there. It will be used for personnel use. Just on my property.
Your neighbor probably knows of a machine shop somewhere. You could use 4140 prehard for the pins. Could even send that for hear treating to gain more hardness. The material as it comes would hold up well for your use I think. For the bucket you could have bosses made and have your neighbor weld them in. For the bushings in the boom it would probably be just as good to order them from the dealer. Check prices every where sometimes it is just as cost effective to buy the parts as source them. And.... Always remeber that grease is a lot less expensive than buying parts and down time!!
I dont know if he knows of s machine shop to make bushings he is a HVAC guy that likes to make and build things and weld. So your saying to have bushing made for the bucket? Buy new pins and bushings for the end of the stick? Cause pins wont be a problem to replace the bushings I may be able to do myself with the neighbor. I guess I would have to bring the bucket with the new pins to the machine shop the make sure they make the bushings the right size? Now the smaller pin on the H arm looks good or should i just replace that too? Yes I am cleaning the old grease and dirt mix little by little by hand and scraper and then re-greasing. I will never let it get that gunked up again. Its all over the joint and arms as you can see by the pictures. Im still working on the front side right now when weather permits. Im also trying to fix other things wrong with it. As you know hazard lights and now new signal switch yesterday a new wiper motor for the door wiper. So little by little. I dont have that kind of cash to do it all in one shot.
Oh I know. It is not a cheap date to repair any of this equipment. Makes you wonder some times why they don't take better care of it. All a machine shop would need is the OD that you want and one of the pins so they could make it with the proper clearnce. It might be worth asking the local dealer or even anther dealer and ask them who does their line boring. A lot of dealers don't own that equipment. I own 3 line boring systems and do quite a bit of work for dealers and equipment owners. New grease is more important than the old grease. I should be the last one to say that because the lack of grease has made me a lot of money over the years.
Before I'd touch that, I'd think about what it's going to take to make it the way you want it, and whether you can live with it the way it is. If the bucket looks like that, then boom pivot probably has slop too. Making the bucket nice and tight isn't going to make that much difference in the functioning of the backhoe. Start adding up all the pins and bushings in the swing function and decide how far you want to go.
The boom bushings and pin should get first priority. IMHO. The boom is more important and way more expensive to repair than the bucket P&B's.
Delmar and Tinkerer both bring up good points. I failed to ask if there were any other bad pins and bushings. You would definitely want to start at the tractor and work your way toward the bucket. A tight bucket does you no good if the main boom falls off the tractor.
I cant really see until I clean off the old grease/ dirt mix. But I have played with it trying to see if the hoe arm main bushings or pins are bad and I dont think so. On the better note my brother in law just let me know that they have a machine shop at his work. So he can have them make me bushings for the bucket and Ill have to weld them into place once they are made. I also think the pin and the bushings in the arm arent bad but I wont be able to tell for sure until I get that pin out and have that bucket swinging off the other pin. Any thoughts on the hydo fluid and how that can be turning milky with. Today I picked up 5 gal of hydo fluid and pulled out 5 milky yellowish gal out of the reserve and put the 5 new gallons in. Hope that makes a difference. Any ideas where the water might be coming in from? Again Im not even working or running the machine much. Just parked in my driveway as I change small things that I can afford and maybe start the thing for 10 or 15 mins once a week or ever 2 weeks.
What do you guys think about after market bushings for the bucket pivot pin? Any recommendations? Or should I just go with OEM john deere. JD part # T166686 The H link bushings I was able to find OEM JD so they are ordered.