I got about 45 hours on my new rails and sprockets (1999 JD 450G)...been having to use the dozer as a snowplow lately...BAD, BAD, popping as it seems the chain is jumping the sprocket mostly on downhill (95% of the time). I've tried to tighten tension as well as loosen...still pops. All I can figure is the ice packs between the sprocket and bushings real tight, as it only has done it a few times prior when I was working in muddy clay...and I came to the same conclusions about packing. So what do y'all say? Do you run loose or tight in snow? Am I right in my conclusions? Seriously...this POP sucks!
Gotta run them loose. jr
Well if your gonna consistantly run in snow and muck, I would recommend cutting holes in your shoes to allow the sprockets to push the mud and snow right thru the shoe thus eliminating the "pop"
Yikes! No, this is a wintertime event...and I ain't liking it!
loose, especially if the pads don't have holes to allow material to push out as the chain engages the pin.
****, I had no idea that a chain could even jump a tooth on a sprocket. I have only owend my 450g for less than a week. Does this happen in lower gears like 1st or 2nd or when working in higher gears?
Grandpa is right. With the type of problem you are describing his solution is about the only real cure for your problem. That is if you want to use the machine in those conditions without damaging the final drives! If you don't like the idea of cutting holes in your pads then you can always buy a set of center hole punched pads and replace yours with them. If you do decide to cut holes in your pads then one thing you need to remember is that you should always remove the pads from the chains before you cut them. That is if you are running sealed and lubricated tracks. The main reason for this is because the seals used in that type of chain assembly are not designed to handle the amount of heat you can produce while cutting on the pads. Also another possible problem I have seen when cutting on pads still on the chains is the oil plugs in end of the pins can blow out because of the pressure created when the chain link gets to hot. And when either one of these things happen you might as well pull the chains off of the machine and take them to a track shop. Because they don't last no time once they go dry compared to what they should have lasted.
Just going in low gear, creeping along...shoving snow to the side. It's a horrible sound when it happens...never happens when pushing dry dirt.
Yep...I got SALT rails. Oh boyz. Guess I'll just run loose as my best option as opposed to reworking the pads. C'mon springtime!
If you're gonna be pushing snow every year with your dozer, cutting snow holes in the pads is a must. Also, keep an eye on your top rollers. If they freeze up they can develop a flat spot real quick. Loose tracks make top rollers even more failure prone. Less tension to make the roller do it's thing or that's what I've been told.
Sure wish I'd have seen this coming...had no idea snow would present this problem...and I got a storm coming in tonight too! So, until I can remove the pads and cut holes, do I run loose, loose, loose to lessen the impact on the finals? I gotta move the snow!
It will help, but is not the best solution. It is the quickest. Be careful not to throw a track. That would be the last time and place i would want to throw a track.
I would try running loose before cutting holes in the pads and see what happens. Long time ago an old fellow (older than grandpa up there) told me run your tracks like they sound like they are going to come off. That is just the right tension. I do this on all of my machines and it seems to work pretty good. I check to see how much slack I have by measuring with a piece of lumber over the track to the top rollers also to see where I am at.
Oh man...I'm shivering at just the thought! Slow and loose...I guess that's me this winter!
Alrighty...sounds like my only option for now...I'll shoot for 2.5" of sag and see where she goes.
Enviormentally Unfriendly But! I would try that adjustment first and go from there.Not too loose or will have more issues,track coming off in snow drift,not fun! I know you live in Ca. so use your own judgement,but have poured diesel fuel on the tracks and rail over night too help keep things from freezing solid.Snow and frozen mud won't stick as bad and if it warms up any it will fall off easier..Espeically when working in muddy conditions. Also be carefull pushing the snow on slopes traveling sideways.They slide sideways like a roller skate when they start sliding.Don't need you going off a cliff some where.I take you are up high if in Ca. and snow.Take care:usa
LOL! Skiing with the dozer...done that! Yep...will try that tip...no tree huggers will see... I'll do the 2.5" then a bit tighter...I heard the that temp varience plays a huge part as well. I agree. Last time I pushed there were no problems. Temp and snow packing matter. Thanks!
Even with snow holes and running the tracks on my old D4 7U fairly loose, I occasionally get a "pop" out of 'em. When it's cold, below 25 or so, it rarely happens but when temps get to the mid to high 30's seems to be when it happens most. That's when I get off the critter and start poking the ice out of the chains. At the same time I'll dig out under the top rollers as it builds up there really fast in warmer temps.
Just get the oxy out and be done with it!
I HATE packing snow conditions, something else that helps is to drive backwards as much as possible, it shakes the snow out before the sprokets pack it in.
So, with snow around the corner again, and no relief notches cut, my idea is to make "skirts" for the outside bottoms of the track area to prevent the snow from falling in on the bottoms of the pads. Ya' think it'll work?
In a word - NO. You need shoes with trapezoidal holes (aka trap shoes) in them so that as the snow gets pushed into the space between the track links & it is extruded out of the holes in the shoes. See attached diagram.
Well, the reason I posed the solution was with a Cat (2005-no slots) D4, the problem never arose because the lower area was already shielded from snow entry. This 450G is WIDE open for snow to fall into. It would be a quick and easy method to try anyway, don't you think?
You can have a crack at it but I don't think it will work. I am of the opinion the way to solve this problem is to provide the snow with a way to get out rather than try to stop it getting in there in the first place despite the fact that trying to stop it getting in where it isn't wanted would appear to be the most logical solution on the face of it.
Thanks Nige...I've noodled it a bit and have compared my 450 to the D4...neither have the slots, but the D4 never had a problem whatsoever because the snow couldn't get it. At any rate, it will be simple to try; nothing ventured - nothing gained.