1984 M1008 After much research I have narrowed my replacement radiator to 2 sources: Rock Auto 3 row all aluminum ($624 total w/ship&tax) or Summit Racing 3 row brass/copper ($727 total w/ship&tax). They seem identical to each other and to the original. The money difference is not significant. I lean toward the brass/copper simply to avoid the anti freeze issue (too much to consider). Which would you prefer?
What is the anti freeze issue? There is no benefit in trying to keep the green stuff in there.
Flip a coin.
Brass copper if you ever have a problem it can be fixed.
Yeah, but I can't get a good feel on OAT, HOAT, NOAT, 2EH, etc. Too many choices; not enough info on actual differences and effects. Also, not sure if newer ones will be harmful to the old engine (seals, gaskets). Why don't all modern car makers use same anti freeze?
True.
Try this thread; Nige and others posted some good info. Please educate me on coolant . . . Hi all, I have a Cat 315C (0CJC02798) that I am sorting through cooling system issues with right now, but really the questions I have are more general. 1) What is nitrite in coolant for, and does it matter? I have picked up some stuff on other threads regarding Cat stuff requiring nitrited... HeavyEquipmentForums After you read all that, just put Final Charge red elc in it and be done. The new coolants won't bother the old stuff, just make sure lol the green is flushed out.
Put those rockauto part numbers into amazon and see what turns up. Joe H
Tried it; nothing.
Read most of it. Now both my brain and eyes are blurry. I long for the old days.
The old days it went bad, the new stuff is amazing. I changed out the hoses,belts/idlers/radiator on my 03 Suburban last year. The inside of it was like new, everything was spotless. Joe H
I just got an answer from Valvoline Global:"We recommend our Zerex Original Green coolant for your vehicle. The formulation is designed for diesels and protects all engine cooling system metals from corrosion including aluminum
You're over-reading into it. Get the brass/copper rad, throw in some red ELC or green with additive and move on with driving it.
I already ordered the aluminum one from rock auto. Aluminum seems to stand up well in modern autos, and the lighter weight will hopefully be easier on my back than removing the old one was (although the old one had the additional weight of some remaining coolant, trans fluid, and engine oil). I'm still recovering!
I decided to replace the lower radiator hose while the radiator was out. Inside and out the old (original) hose looked perfect, since 1984, using the old green stuff.
I would choose the non-made in China one. When you get your radiator look inside it and see the crap welds and construction