Looking for paperwork like owners, operators, and shop manuals I just purchest this grader and am in need of any information I can get so I start restoring it. Thanks
Still looking for manuals,For this Austin Western Super 300 thanks in advance. also need them for a Bomag BW100ADL
Found parts manual and operators, service manual. for the grader. 15 minutes of reading saved 15 days of work and got it right. The grader is striped of paint and almost ready for primer, aftre primer then I will build a wireing harness but not install it till the finish paint goes on. Still looking for the manual for the bomag. Never did hear back from bomagUSA.
Now looking for an operator for Austin Western grader I need to find someone who can tell me in the linkage for the circle swing is correct as I can't seem to get the blade to go vertical on the side of the grader without the tip hitting the ground.
Probally a little late with a reply but I just joined so here goes. Looks like you have quite a machine there. I think that is about as far as you are going to get your blade although I could be wrong as I have never operated a Austin Western. I know with the 1977 Champion that I used to operate I could put the moldboard horizontal or vertical (same position as your picture but even across, great for changing blades) this was because it had a high lift feature on it, which simply means that there are two different positions on each side in which you can change the position of the circle. On the old Champion this was accomplished manually by two levers, one on each side of the contol levers. On the new Graders this feature (high lift) is electric over hydrolic controls. Just to give you an idea how it works...when in center position both lift pistons are even. When to the far right position the left lift piston is fully retracted and the right is fully extended. Now by extending your left lift and retracting your right is how you bring the moldboard up and around to the side. Looking at your picture your left is fully extended and the right is fully retracted so unless I am missing something that is as far as you can go.
Thanks for the responce. I am still working on the restoration and have not had a chance to work the blade outside. Hopefuly I will have it done enough to take it out in a few months. I see what you meen about the ram on the left been fully extened and the one on the right retracted. What I was woundering is that linkage in from the circle to the frame. should the dog leg go left or right in the picture. I will take a few more pictures this weekend if it helps. This position is what I was looking for. Thanks again Dwan
Yup, I know exactly what you are trying to achieve. I have used the moldboard in that position many many times over the years for high bank cutting etc. In your picture notice the position of the moldboard and there is still room for the ram to retract allowing him to bring that side up even higher. So on this grader there has to be a way that he is repositioning the circle side shift as my previous thread explained. I don't think by adjusting the side shift bar is going to accomplish much except it might allow you to side shift the circle more to the right or left depending on which way you adjust it. I have operated graders all my life (25yrs) but never a Austin Western (seen them before) so I am not sure of the set up for the circle. With this type of machine there could be a different set up in which to high lift your moldboard. keep in touch and post more pictures. I will help you out all that I can.
Thanks It will be a while before it is out of the shop . By the way welcome to Heavy Equipment site.
Thanks! Finally found something interesting to do on this old computer. Chance to share ideas and learn from some of the best out there!
Blade side-shift Hi, Dwan Hall. Many graders of that vintage would not stand the blade vertical in the side shifted position without the bottom end of the blade digging into the ground. The reasoning was that cutting would be done with the blade angled anyway so there wasn't a need to stand it vertical. If my memory is correct (30+ years on), there were attachment balls on both sides of the circle frame for the side shift link. If both of yours are still there, you might like to experiment with changing the side-shift link over to the other side. Also, there appears to be a bend in that side-shift link which does not seem to be in line with best engineering principles, i.e. keeping braces straight to best resist the forces imposed on them. You might like to check out that bend to see if it is ex-factory or a later change. Hope this helps. You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
If you're still looking, I think Steve McLean has an Austin Western grader at his lot for sale. When I get down there next I'll take a look and see if he has one that I can get a few pics of.
It would be great if you could take a few pictures of the linkage area and that draglink in the picture I posted on 2/11/05 is correct. and as Deas Plant mentioned if it is suspose to be bent or straight. Many thanks as the project is still comming along.. The more I do the more I find I can do.
I know he had one Austin, and a couple cats, I'll see if he still has it.
Dwan, Funny how you look at a picture and not notice anything abnormal until someone points it out? That sure enough looks like a bend in your side shift bar that is most likely not original. As Deas pointed out you could hook your side shift bar on the opposite side of the circle, but probally all you would accomplish is the same reach (as your picture shows) only on the opposite side. By the way I seen an old Austin Western that had a bush hog attachment cutting brush along the road the other day. It was in great shape. The guy had a long boom with the bush hog on the end. He had duel wheels mounted on the right side for better stability. I plan on taking some pictures of it and will post them. Man was it ever doing a good job cutting the brush! :yup
Extended side shift Hi, Dwan. If you look carefully at the black and white photo above, you may see that the side shift link is on the high side of the grader circle. It may make the difference, depending on which side you put the blade out to. Hope this helps. You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
Linkage Picture For what its worth... here's what the linkage arm on our grader looks like. The bend sure looks factory. I don't know if this install position/orientation is from the factory or not. I just purchased this grader. Needs lots of work, but we hope to use it for making waterways on our farm. I'm used to fixin' up old tractors. But restoring any type of equipment provides the same thrill. Got any pictures of yours all spruced up?
I am sure the benc is factory as I have found 2 other AW's the same but still not positive on the orientation. Mine still has a lot of work to go. most of the paint has been removed and 1/2 has been repainted. The stearing ram has been repacked and ball linkage has been tightened up. The tapered pins for the steering linkage were wore oblong and had no ware inserts so I made some and reshaped the tapered holes. Had to replace one of the 2 circle motors because 1 of the cast ears on the ram housing was broken off. Still to go is build a new seat, rebuild front window frame, (someone welded frame closed) repack sideshift ram seals, find end cutting edges for blade (missing) a little welding hear and there. new muffler to quite down the 471. I have a link to a new 471 in a crate but don't think I need it and if I did I would put something quieter in there. On the other 2 AW's I found the main frame like mine has had some welding done between the cab and the blade shift mount area. This must have been a week area. When things slow down and I get back home I will have a new look on life and jump on mine with new vigger. Hope to have it on the road before turkeyday. Could use pictures of the linkage for the inside front window if you ever have time. Thanks for the post and welcome to the site. Dwan
Dwan, tractor parts has some information here: http://www.tpaktopc.net/austin_western.htm and if you scroll down there is a manual available for the Super 300 here: http://www.ssbtractor.com/miscellaneous_tractor_manuals.html and manuals here a bit cheaper if this helps: http://www.ytmag.com/store/manuals/miscman2.htm
Geez what is it with you guys and the antiques :laugh As for keeping a Jimmy quiet is try stick a turbo on it and buy spiral muffer I forget the part number but they are used alot on winders and dozer boats with 2 stroke detroit power. I doubt you would ever find a engine with the same dimensions to install into the grader. The oldest graders around here is old 740 Champions some of them back to the early 70s.
I finaly got manuals for it, but noware does it give a clear picture of the linkage for the blade shift linkage. As far as putting a turbo on the 471? I am not sure that is possable because of the super charger on the other side. I am sure I could find a ISUZU that would have more HP and a smaller frame. only if needed. I once ordered one of thoes mufflers for my 975 bobcat when I switched out the motor for a larger one. When it arived it was bigger then the motor I put in so I gave it away. worst $500 I ever spent. You would think it would cut down on the noise but even after I gave it away I can still hear my wife screeming about it.
I had a 1948 4x4 Austin Western way back (it had a Buda gas engine, it was the lasiest engine I ever seen.)That bar is not supposed to be bent. If you look at the pictures you will see that it would not fit the other side in that condition. It was most likely bent by a inexperienced operator. If you moved it in the right position you will probably see how it got bent.
Hi ledsel..welcome to HEF! Sooo..where are the pictures? On edit..sorry, I guess you was talking about the grader above..I thought you was refering to your own machine..Geez..I have to learn to read these posts more carefully..lol
Hi ledsel..welcome to HEF! Sooo..where are the pictures?-------They're in between my ears, But I'll see if I can find some in print to share. I just started to think of how many I've had over the years and I've had 9. But I only have three left. I was in N.B. last month, Beautiful country. My avatar is my first one. My dad bought it from the next town around 1958. I still have it and want to restore it someday. It's a 1926? Sawyer Massey. 10-20 McCormick driveline. All mechanical (wheel type)
I'd be interested in seeing them, and I'm sure others would as well.
Idesel, first welcome nice to have you aboard. Your older machine linkage may not have had a bend in it but the more I find information on mine I am sure it is correct. The bend is suspose to be there. I too would like to see some pictures of your equipment if possable the older the better.
I started a new thread with my pics.
i got my manuals from mapster on ebay . i would look there .usually a good selection and cheaper too
Windrow, I have what I need now in fact I have one for the shop and one for the office. A link to Idsel's pictures.
Do youvguys know where I can get parts for my 1973 A\W super 301 having trouble with the right side drive wheels may have broken chains or axel Is there a way to tell other than there don't slip on the ice
The first grader I owned was an Austin Western Super 300 back in 1977. They were a great machine in their day, too bad they didn't survive until graders with locking differentials came out. Loved the rear wheel steer. The guy I bought mine from had put an interlocking coupler in the front drive shaft just in front of the cab. If you were going to road it for several miles, you pulled the two bolts out of the coupler and slide the front part ahead in the splines so the front wheels were no longer driving. Still and all, I bought it with the rear drive crashed so go figure.
I looked for parts on e-bay, always found what I needed after time except for the end bits for the blade. As far as checking for a bad axle or chain I would do it the same way as a skid steer. Jack up the suspected side and get both wheels off the ground. try to move 1 wheel both should move with less then 1/2" play between the 2. if not adjust chain. to check axle I would block chain case off ground and put a floor jack under each wheel and look for bearing play. First indication of a bad axle is uasualy oil leak from inside wheel seal. (bad bearing will take out seal) Hope some of this helps. What parts are you looking for and ware are the pictures?
Absolut Service: Use the blade to lift the right side wheels off the ground. Leave it out of gear and the brakes off. Get out and turn a wheel by hand. If both wheels turn it's not chains but the the main drive axle. Sadly this is the reason Austin Western and in Britain, Aveling Barford (yeah I had one of those too) didn't make it. They had beautiful soft hydraulics, six wheel drive and rear wheel steering back when Cat was still making Barny Rubble graders.
Austin Westen I was thinking the same way guys I have found a axel seal leaking on that side so I am going to get in to it in a few day and see what I find I have found new axles if I need them thanks
hey guys first post here i have a 1953 austin western super 99 and need rearend parts for it anbody know where i can get some thanks I really love this machine and would like to keep it going
Dwan Hall I was wanting to know on your circle cylinders are the hose crossed coming off the swivel on your Austin Western?
I crashed a rear drive in a 300 around 1970 and still feel bad about it. No training, just told to go pull ditch while a more experienced operator spread it. I remember driving it back to the shop and the boss said "don't let it start hopping in the the ditch". Amazing I got it back to the shop, but that's what six wheel drive can do. Hope you can put your's back right as I think that that the one I worked was a terific machine for plowing snow and if you take it easy with the dirt, it will do the job. The rear steer was ahead of its too. Great machine for those mountain roads.
Will send you a copy of directions on how to sink circle motors later this week along with pictures of hose routing.. Dwan
Hope this helps
In figure 32, circle and draw bar, on the 3"od x 12' long solid bar, the bottom rail on the blade, do you see that point where two 3" id x16" hold the lower blade? The blade has popped out again there on my Super300. Did you modify yours? The top Solid 2 inch bar I'm going to cut a new pipe and Slot it for the bar and weld the ears (#20) on that. Might weld a new slotted pipe on the bottom, does that make sense?
I'm just bumping this old thread... Here's my old girl fired up and ready to plow in Alaska
My Dad had Super 500, V6 Detroit, Nice machine you got there
There was a Super 500 that was working up on Hatcher's Pass a few years ago.I would like to know what happened to it.
Hello, I'm gonna try to revive this old thread. I recently purchased Dwan Halls Super 300 and am looking for sources for parts. unfortunately Dwan passed away last year so he's not around to answer questions. I tracked down manuals online pretty easy. based off this forum, it sounds like he did a pretty thorough restoration of the machine, but its been sitting a while and is due for another round. for starters, I need to re pack almost every ram on it, but I'm going to start with the lift cylinders and the two circle motors (the ones that need to be timed correctly?) other than the rams, the machine is still pretty solid. The old 471 is pretty tired though, runs ok once its going, but its a bear to get started without way more go juice than I ever want to put in an engine. Also, If anyone could point me to pictures of is restoration, that would be awesome if any are still on here. I just found the one picture of it when he first got it. hears a pic of it today after a good pressure washing. Any info on parts would be greatly appreciated!
So sorry to hear Dwan passed away. Since you knew him you should make a post in the gone but not forgotten forum on here.
I actually never met Dwan, only talked to him once on the phone about 10 yeas ago. he ran towing company and he contacted my business to help move a totaled insurance claim car for him that was a little out of his range. his son is good friends with a buddy of mine. after purchasing the grader from his wife, I started looking online and got a kick out of finding this tread started by Dwan, about my exact machine! just from a few posts, I learned more about what he's done to the machine in the past. family didn't know much about it really. I'm learning quick that parts are just a bit of a problem for these old things. I don't even know where to start. so far the internet has brought up nothing.
That’s a sweet looking super 300. I bought one from my neighbor a few years ago. As far as parts… finding a donor machine of the same vintage is probably your best bet. Or a good machine shop. As mentioned earlier in this thread, he seemed to have good luck on eBay. If you do start repacking cylinders, I’d be interested in hearing what works for you, as all the cylinders on my machine need repacked. Maybe there is a place that sells parts, but I haven’t found it yet. Good luck.
I'm in a pretty remote location in South East Alaska and the odds of finding a doner machine is about 0. Ill be trying to get something figured out for the cylinders soon though.
I was saddened to read that @Dwan has moved forums, into the gone but not forgotten. I plan on posting something there as he was one of those people who was willing to help a brother or sister. He came out to Willow when he had business in Anchorage. He had a few tips for me for maintenance on my AW. The one that stuck with me is grease that week on the front chassis pivot. That zerk still refuses to take grease, so maybe I'll get it flowing again in his honor. @erobichaud if you have any questions that I could answer about your blade I would be happy. Good luck with the cylinders. Mine still leak even after some efforts. There's a picture of your blade sitting in a large puddle posted somewhere. I guess that puddle had a large rainbow sheen on it. Maybe the answer to the leaks is to deploy oil containment boxes.