Anyone know a replacement part for the BF28S 580E battery. Also does Anyone know where to buy the repacking kit for the multiple cylinders on the 580E. If anyone has done these are they time consuming g to do? I want to repack all the cylinders. I watched some YouTubers do it seemingly swimmingly. Any help appreciated Thank you Steviev
There is nothing special about the battery. It is a group 28 that can be purchased in about any auto parts store. Take the old one with you so you get the correct size. IF you can get 1000CCA battery in the tray I would go that route. The kits for cylinders are for sale all over the internet. Hercules and Bulldog brands are my preferred ones. Toooo many different cylinders on your 580E to even begin to tell you what you need . The online parts book will have all the cylinders and the seal kit numbers for them.
thank you so much again Tinkerer
Experienced people make changing seals look easy. It's not a real hard job but getting the rod nut or bolt loose and tightened to the proper torque can be difficult and some seals can be harder to install and need some special tools. If you do it yourself put some oil on the seals when installing them. Vaseline works too and some people use grease. Not much, just enough so they aren't dry. Less chance of damage putting them in and assembling the cylinder. An option is taking just the rods in and having a shop change the seals and you put them back in the barrels. Check with hyd. shops if they'll do that first. Some shops won't because they can't warranty them. If you're just using the backhoe for your own use tell the shop. It isn't as critical as if you're making a living with the machine.
My cylinder repack thoughts: 1. Crack the gland nut loose prior to removing the cylinder pin. It is easier to crack the gland nut when everything is well supported. 2. Prior to removing the gland nut, be sure that the cylinder does not have a set screw in place. 3. If the gland nut will not break loose peen the tube where the gland nut screws in. Don't be afraid to hit it hard with a hammer. 4. Have a pan ready for when the gland nut comes out; there will be a lot of oil that is looking for a place to go. 5. Be sure to loosen or remove the blind side hose or you will not be able to pull the rod out of the cylinder. 6. If possible, only remove the gland end pin. Leave the cylinder in the machine, and only remove the rod from the cylinder. 7. Put the pin back in the rod end prior to trying to break the bolt/nut loose. It will be hard to hold the rod still under the great amount of torque you will need to apply without pinning it back on the machine, unless you have a sweet cylinder machine to hold the rod in place. 8. The bolt/nut will be tight, put a long pipe on your breaker bar. Yes, it would be great to have an assistant for this. 9. heat the new piston seal in hot water prior to installing. A pick set will help to work it on (don't poke the new seal though) 10. Once the seal is on the piston, a clamp can be used to reduce the size until just before you slide it back in. Yes, as stated above, use lube. I use petroleum jell (Vaseline). 11. Spend the ~$20 to get the tool to install the u-cup seal inside the gland, it is well worth it for the aggravation it will save. 12. If you are using the tractor strictly for home use (not to earn a living) think about omitting the locktite on the nut/bolt for the piston, as well as the gland nut threads. 13. If you cannot break the gland nut no matter what, take the whole cylinder out and take it to the hydraulic shop. They have the ability to crack some real tight gland nuts. I am sure I omitted some important information, but if you have lingering questions, just ask.
Resealing cylinders that are not leaking in any way is waste of time and money. They are designed to work hundreds and hundreds of hours without a problem. Allowing the piston seals to drag over the barrel threads will require another teardown and a new set of piston seals. There is an old saying -- if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Good point!! I assumed they were leaking.
Whatever you do don’t buy ****** seals off of Amazon. Then you get the pleasure of doing them again. Think I’m gonna just buy the whole kit from Broken tractor I think. Dale Weiss is his name I think, talked to him last year so not sure.
Dale Weiss is at e-backhoeparts.com He is great to deal with, I don't know anything about brokentractor.com I usually get seals from baum hydraulics, because I get bunches of stuff from them, and they are another great resource.
Yep, got the name right but the company wrong. He is the one that finally convinced me that someone had put a aftermarket front bucket on my backhoe.
I am just going add my 2 cents here............. I just got done doing some cylinders on a 580K.........front bucket curl, outrigger, and boom cylinder. I usually buy my hydraulics supplies from Hercules US. HerculesUS.com They have seal kits available.......the link is kinda hidden on their page. Top right of page if memory serves. I didn't buy the kits from them..........they were out of one of the kits. I ended up buying from HWpartstore.com. Here's why I bought from them.........I called before I ordered the parts online to validate that they did, indeed; have the kits available. I don't remember where they are located..............but it was 8am here and 7am there.......nobody home. 20 minutes before they 'officially' opened, I got a phone call back. I didn't recognize the area code, answered fully expecting SPAM, and it was them calling back............I hadn't left a voice mail. They saw that an incoming call had come in...........AND CALLED BACK!!! Sorry...........I was IMPRESSED!! Kits were in stock. I ordered them.........good quality seals........not junk. I asked about the back story on HW..........they used to be a hydraulics shop, got into putting seal kits together because lots of people were asking for them. They sold the hydraulics shop and now only offer seal kits exclusively............just figured I'd throw that in there. First time I've ordered from them...........BLOWN AWAY that the guy called me back without a voicemail. THAT, MY FRIEND; IS CUSTOMER SUPPPORT!! What Swetz said...........all of it!! Look for those little tiny lock screws. Hopefully they haven't been sheared off. If they have, drill em out. If the screw won't come out, try twisting the gland nut one way or another........there might be some torque on the gland nut binding the screw. If not..........a little heat from the torch on and around the screw.......don't melt it..........then shock it with water. I always carry a little metal pan in my truck to heat w/ torch to heat up water. Hot water.........warm up the piston w/ the torch or boil it it water........piston holds the heat (thermal mass).......keeps the piston seal warm. Nothing like taking the seal and try to put it on and the cold piston sucks the heat out of seal. What Swetz said.........Get yourself a seal installer tool!!! It folds the seal into a nice U so you can put it inside the gland nut. https://www.amazon.com/NOTETOUPT-Hy...cphy=9002485&hvtargid=pla-1683248247271&psc=1 They look like that in the link above. What Swetz said............If the gland nut won't come off don't be afraid to whack it with a hammer. I like to have someone pulling on the gland nut while I whack it. Hit the face of the gland nut if possible.........it will take more abuse. Wrap the rod with some rags in case you miss or the hammer glances into the rod..........don't need any knicks on the chrome. If you put the barrel of the cylinder into a vise...........don't squish it!! You can out of round the barrel w/ too much pressure........dat be bad. Getting the nut off the piston...........I use a 1" drive socket and ratchet to break it free..........those things are in there!! 3/4" drive should work too. I think you'll end up breaking your 1/2" stuff............I think. Getting the pins out of the ends of the cylinder......... Heat is your friend. Lots of heat. Be careful not to MUSHROOM the end of the pin when your trying to drive it out. The rust between the pin and the hole are whats holding the pin in. Rust is AN AMAZING THING.........rust will expand and bend metal, breaks bolts holding 2 plates together...........simply amazing..........and frustrating. If your trying to heat something but have , say..........a rubber hose next to it, you can fold a bunch of tinfoil up to use as a heat shield............if a piece of sheet metal won't fit.
I ended up using a track press to push a 1.5" pin out of the outrigger..................would usually burn it out w/ slice rod (you could use torch)............but it was on the home owners lawn. He didn't want the lawn ruined..........it's a long story.
Depends, if the seals failed just because they're old and brittle, then I do the other cylinder every time. The price of the seals isn't that much compared to the hassle of finding the right ones. Plus the second cylinder takes a third the time the first one took.
LOL.............maybe. Could be, rabbit!! Could be!! Yes.......once you get one done now you've got the experience of getting one done. Depends on how frozen the pins are. How stuck is the end cap?? Ohhhh.......the mind reals with possiblities!!! LOL I read that last line and I just had to chime in. Been there, done that..........played that game. This is how it USUALLY goes for me.........the first one is a breeze............the 2nd one fights me tooth and nail. Ohhh so many examples of that!!LOL Not saying that the case in all the time.......just my luck though. How hard can it be??!! Just pop the cylinders off, take them apart, put new seals in, them put them back together again and put em on..........see, easy peezee!! LOL
Kind of depends on who's trying to change the seals. Some people would botch multiple cylinders and never really figure out the proper way to change seals.
As a wise man told me years ago.............It's only easy if you know how to do it!! Yup, you are correct sir.
I always find it is much easier to talk about how easy it is, after the job is complete...never know what is going to thwart you...LOL .
That's for sure, it can be a job you have done a hundred times, and then something pops up.
Usually the last one, when you have a few of the same things to fix, is the one that gives you fits.
Once, about 40 years ago now, a customer brought in a car for an oil change. This was at a Goodyear store. Back then we did not have lube technicians, (read oil changer) like they do now. The mechanic brought the car in and drained the oil. Customer waiting. Over 2 hours later, the 15 min oil change was done. It seems that the 10 year old car never had an oil change, and the filter and the engine became one. As I remember, the mechanic tried every trick in the book, and when he was done, all that was left was the metal mounting portion of the filter. Due to space constraints, he was able to just get the air chisel in there, which ultimately got what was left of the filter to start turning...Boy was I glad they didn't assign that 15min. oil change to me!...LOL
LOL!!! Just a simple oil change, how hard can it be??!! There are some days, doing a job; when I run into problems like that.......and I think to myself "Their never gonna believe this. How am I going to explain this and bill it out?? I need witnesses!!"LOL And then the inner voice starts talking to me.........It took you how long to do a ......(fill in the blank)??!!!
You can use group 31 battery, probably less expensive and getting them in 1000cca easier. Will be heavier and bigger but will fit.