I have a Mitsubishi BD2G that when you pull the lft steering lever it will stop the machine. May move a little but you can hold the brake just a little and will not move. The right steering lever works fine. Where should i start looking. Also where can i find a service manual?
When you pull the left lever back does the right track still pull? Sounds like your clutch pack on the left is gone. I had a simular problem with mine and the brake band was shot, replaced the right side for 700.00. Have you tried any adjustments to the brakes or clutch rods? It may just be an simple adjustment. The right track should continue to pull when you pull the left lever back it releases the hydraulic pressure on the left and applies full pressure to the right side. You can get books from Rhine equip @800-536-3335 ask for Jay. They will probably have to order them from Mitsubishi but it's worth the wait and cost. I have a set if you need specs on how to do the adjustments, just let me know. reddog848
No the right track will not pull. Seems like it just kills hyd flow to both drives. Only the one side does it. I will call and get a manual ordered but if you could spare the procedures for now that would be great.
Look under the seat and you will see two 15/16 nuts, one on each side of the hydraulic valve. These are kinda hard to get to, I used a socket and ratchet to reach them.You will have to use a shallow socket or a box in wrench, DON'T use an open end if you can avoid it. Tighten these all the way down and then back off 2&3/4 turns. They may be hard to tighten but keep trying, I had to use a cheater bar to loosen mine. Make sure the rods and linkage to the valves are hooked up and travel is equal on both sides. When trying to move forward without pulling the levers back do both tracks pull even? You can put the blade down to cause pressure, put it in 1st and then watch both tracks to see if they pull. That will tell you if the clutches are good. If the clutches are good on both sides the tracks will pull equal, if not the right side will slip and not engage. I forgot to ask if you have a manual or a power shift trans, if it is a power shift then you may have another problem . Let me know what happens. By they way, where are you? reddog848
The nuts your talking about are they under the inspection plate? If your traveling and you pull the left lever it will start to tun then stop but if you release the lever just a litttle it will try to go again. Both tracks pull fine. Pull right lever and it turns right no problem. Just when you pull left lever.
Bd2g The Mitsubishi BD2 are good little machines,which often came from Japanese rental fleets.Often,they sat in cold weather,doing little work...& sometimes the steering clutches bonded up.They often came equipped with apex plate swamp tracks. You'll likely need to renew the steering discs,which can be got from steeringclutch.com. Working on the steering is a bit hard,but better than on other machines. Steering is dry type. I can sell you copied books,& have some parts contacts. PM me. Jim
Bd2g BD2G Steering adjustments....
Okay Got my mmanual and did all the adjustments. THey were out some but still same thing. If your traveling in forward or reverse and pull the left lever sometimes it tries to turn and sometimes it wont. The right lever works fine. I suppose i just need to pull it apart and replace clutches? Its wierd tho the way the machienw ill somtimes still try to turn?
Yeah I think you will find that either you have oil in the right steering clutch case or your clutches and steel disc are bad. Hopefully that is all. I have the drums, clutches, and the steel disc on the shelf for times like this. If it has oil in the case then you will also need to rebuild the release cylinder. I'm doing one in teh shop now and they are pretty nice to work on really. If you need anything send me a pm. Darin
I am having brake trouble on my BD2F , the right brake compartment is oily. How do I remove the inspection plate ? Something is holding it down. The brake adjustment bolt refuses to turn , too. Is it supposed to be hard to turn? As stated in the post above , is the oil coming from a leaking hydraulic cylinder ? Or would it be rear end grease from a bad shaft seal? HELP!
i have a bd2gII, does anyone have the diagram for pulling out the steering clutch,? ive ordered the manual from rhine , but may take some 2 weeks to get it. any info greatly appreiciated??? thanks
I don't know anything about your machine, but i learned a long time ago that those dry steering brakes are scrap if you get lube on them. Years ago, we struggled with a 500e that simply would not steer. Finally got rid of it, and then years later realized its was because the brake bands, once they have lube on the lining, they are junk. Looking back i feel so stupid... I our case, you pulled the lever, the clutch would disengage(release) but the brake wouldn't grab, so the machine kept traveling with a slight drift in the desired direction. Doesn't sound like your problem though...
I also have BD2G I think my clutch is gone on the left side, I have the primary off and bolts out of both sides of the drum, I just cant get it to lift out any help would be GREAT!!!!! Oh what my problem is that my machine wont turn right unless you are going down hill? And the left track isnt pulling at all when you put pressure on it? I was told it was a clutch issue and they needed replaced what yall think? I look forward to a responce or call me @ 662-321-5268 Charlie Rippy And it is a power shift trans.....
Well I got if off today. Man it just needed a little taptap to get it off. New clutch kit and brake on the way. The teeth on the clutch were gone.... Going to replace brake while I have it apart.... $645.00
Got the same problem with a seized left clutch... spent all day trying to get it out but the outer drum is locked solid to the cluch discs so no joy. One more try with a tool I made to try and press them together and if that doesn't work I might have to admit defeat and cut the drum Right clutch and brake came out easily and seems fine. Can anyone tell me what thickness the clutch plates and steel plates should be or what to look for to check if they should be replaced. Also whats the lining thickness on the brake band supposed to be?
Diagram of the steering clutches can be found here http://www.tpaktopc.net/PDFs/BD2G%20STEERING%20CLUTCH%20PARTS.pdf I assume you have removed the seat, panels and top covers and disconnected the brake bands. Then you need to remove the bolts from each side of the drum. They are part 34 on the drawing and there are 10 each side from memory. You will need to rotate the track a little to get to them all. I do this by using a jack under one of the track grousers at the back of the tracks. Once all the bolts are out the drum and clutch pack need to be loosened and moved away from their attaching flanges before you will be able to lift them out as there are steps in both mating faces.
Welcome to the Heavy Equipment Forums Kneelo!
I cannot post new thread, so can i ask where to get a hydraulic filter for our BD2G? It is about an '86. I will check books and serial number, but where do you get parts, etc? Thanks, Jerry
I have found aftermarket replacements for the engine oil, fuel and air filters but not the hydraulics. I have the details at home and will post them in the next few days. For the hydraulics I ended up having to buy a genuine replacement filter as no one I tried was able to match it. Genuine parts generally seem to be available though dealers of mitsubishi graders/excavators etc. In australia that is BT equipment and in the states I believe Rhine equipment supply parts, but there is probably others.
Baldwin filter numbers for a BD2G: engine lube - BT292 fuel - BF1110 air - PA1667-FN The genuine mitsubishi hydraulics filter part number is 58873-12200.
I have a strange problem with my bd2g . the right steer and brake work fine . the left will not release the clutch - if pulled back fairly hard , it will actually want to stall the motor with brakeing on the left side . anyone have an idea where to go with this ? The rear left hose has constant psi after the hydrolic valve with the steer lever pulled back or not pulled back . the right side has no psi until the steer lever is pulled , then has high psi .
wont turn left I have a strange problem with my bd2g . the right steer and brake work fine . the left will not release the clutch - if pulled back fairly hard , it will actually want to stall the motor with brakeing on the left side . anyone have an idea where to go with this ? The rear left hose has constant psi after the hydrolic valve with the steer lever pulled back or not pulled back . the right side has no psi until the steer lever is pulled , then has high psi .
I had the exact same problem with the left steering clutch which turned out to be a siezed up clutch pack due to corrosion. I never checked the hydraulic pressures but if you have bought it with this problem perhaps someone has previously has had a go at adjusting the linkages to fix the problem and now the clutch pressure always stays high on that side. I knew I had a problem for a long tame before I decided to fix it properly. As well as the frozen clutch the linkages for my brakes were also quite stiff so the brake band wasn't releasing properly. I found someone had put an extra spring on the linkages to try and fix it. I have stripped both clutches and replaced clutch plates on the left and spacer plates on both sides as there was a fair amount of corrosion on the other side too. I have freed up all the brake linkages and am just waiting for the band brakes to be relined before it goes back together. When it does I'm going to put some silica gel desiccant pouches in both sides and keep an eye on them as this has been a fairly expensive and time consuming exercise. Aftermarket steering parts are available from www.steeringclutch.com and John is very helpful. If you have any trouble getting the frozen clutch pack to come out let me know, I had to make tool up in the end to compress mine and get it out.
Wont turn left Thank you for the reply . I ordered a service manual for this unit so i could inspect it further . I did not want to just start taking it apart and hoping that i would just run into something . How hard (time wise) was it to get to the clutch packs on each side ? I am guessing that they must be a dry clutch due to the corrosion and yourself putting in moisture absorbing bags ? Again , thank you . I anyone has any tips while working on this , please let me know . Thanks a million .....Roger
I'm not sure of your background but I found these fairly straight forward to get out, but it is always a bit slower when youre flying blind. I did try to get a service manual but after sending a couple of emails to rhine equip they never bothered to respond... It would be good to have I think but they are very expensive in aus. Getting the clutches out was easy for one side and very difficult for the other. Half a day or so to get it all opened up and take the first one out then a bit over a full day and a lot of swearing to get the second one out. If its pretty well siezed I would guess you will have the same difficulty as me. Mine would steer in first gear but in the higher gears would start to stall the machine. If its too far gone you may even have to cut the splined drum to get it apart i suspect. I almost got to this point before it finally came out. Yeh its a dry clutch setup so the dust make the job all the more pleasant. good luck and let us know how it goes.
Why does komatsu have such a huge forum and mitsu has such a small one? As far as i can tell mitsu is the superior dozer. Just not the parts support here in the states. I would love to see a ot more mitsu posts
I have a bd2h dozer that i will be replacing the steering clutches and replacing the brake band friction discs as soon as i get my service manual in, just wanted to see if anyone had any pointers? I was going to do it without the manuals, but quite frankly i was stumped as best as i can figure the clutch pack is inside the drum that the brake band grips? Also can anyone tell me what the last letters in the dozer number means? Such as g , h , j?
Hi JeremyH72, The Mitsubishi letters started at the BD2A & progressed thru to the J series,which were the last made with the Mitsubishi badge. The BD2 were bulldozers & the BS3 were Bulldozer-Shovels. There was also a BS6 made,which is a little larger than the ones you generally see . Mitsubishi crawlers were sold in Australia up until the F series in the 80s. There is also a few Ag crawlers here ....like the 5 tonne FA 80. Your H series is the second-last made & is more modern than some of the early machines.Some were equipped with a more versatile 8 way blade. Jim
Thanks for the info jim. Now just waiting for my manuals to get to work on the dozer. If anyone needs any info out of them let me know. I ordered the operators , service and both parts manuals( engine and drivetrain). I will try to help any way i can.
All i can tell you about the BD mitsubishi is to check your side boxes. Large square panel just below where you step into cab. All your hydraulics go into the right one some into the left. They do not drain well and will fill with wet dirt (mud) eventually rotting out the hard lines within. Just takes a few minutes to pull the cover and hose it all out occasionally.
hey guys, new here. I am currently in the process of removing the clutch packs on a BD2f. I have all the bolts out from both flanges but I can't get the brake assembly out. The manual I have for it says something like "push clutch operating rod towards final drive, under this condition the assembly can be lifted out" (I don't have the manual infront of me atm). So....how is this done , exactly? lol. What do I pry/push/pull on/against? I have an 8 foot locomotive pry bar, if thats what it takes. Thanks in advance! Marc :usa
You basically have to pry (sometimes with chisels) the inside drum to go inside the outer drum. I've had them before that you had to try prying them from one side then turn 180 degrees and pry the other out and then back and forth until going in enough to clear the flanges. Then again if it's not moving I've also had to cut the out drum with torches just to get unit out. Then you have to replace that as well. I have those available too so contact me anytime. Darin
Thanks Darin. I was able to get the inner flanges about 1/2" apart...how far apart must they be before they clear? Marc :usa
If you had it move 1/2" then all you need to do is get the outer drum off the other flange lip where is was bolted too. Make sure all the bolts are off....been there forgot that one.... Darin
need some information on BS3F Hi, I have a BD2G and had to adjust the clutch packs, and it worked much better when we got done. fortunately we did not have to take it apart. I suspect it got wet, but it is now in Colorado where rust is not much of a problem. I'm new here, and can't start a thread, so pardon my hijacking this one. Now I have another problem, I have bought a BS3F to clear some brush for my daughter, but I don't know how much it weighs, or the width or length of it to get it shipped. Anyone out there with a manual for it that could look it up? The guy I am buying it from says he has a manual, but can't find it. Thanks
Darin, thanks again for your help, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. So I got both clutch packs out and have already taken them apart, cleaned them up and got 'em back together. Now I'm waiting to get 2 band brake reline kits in the mail from tractorparts.com and a few small parts from Rhine to go any farther with these steering packs. I have 2 small problems now, though. First I need 2 new greaser hoses for the steering clutch yoke bearings, I broke one getting it out and decided to cut the other one to get it out sense the first one was broken already...now I can't find new hoses (part #05750-25047 from http://http://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/BD2G%20STEERING%20CLUTCH%20PARTS.pdf ), Rhine doesn't have these. Do you know where I can get these, or what do you suggest? Second, I need a new transmission brake or to have the one i got relined. Rhine wants $175 for a remanufactured tranny brake with a $200 core charge, am I stuck going this route or can you point me in a much cheaper direction (ie: a DIY reline kit?). I kinda feel that $375 is rediculous for what is basically the brake off of some kids go-cart, lol. Thanks again in advance, Marc :usa
If Rhine doesn't have them I don't know unless you can fab them with some ends. The brake band you can have relined I guess. Core charge will be returned once they get the band from you back so relly i'ts $175. Darin
BD2G or BD2J Model Hi, My name is Andrew, I live in Euroa Vic, Australia, I have Just sign up to the Heavy Equipment forum, And looking for information on the Mitsubishi BD2G or J Dozer the information that I am after is -Some photos of ROP idear's -Some Photos of Stick Rake's idears -Some photos of Rear Ripper systems that people have done -Links to parts supplyers for the above machine -Buying a machine in the states (as the price over in in OZ is $30,000.00) As I am pretty handy with the mig and get great satification from doing it my self. When I have completed my machine I will post some photos of it on the forum, a lick to my page so that any body can view them and mybe get some idears for them selfs. Cheers For Now Wheelybin
Here's some ideas Andrew... Casey Cabs will make you a ROPS. I had a G model with a ROPS ,made by a Gippsland Co years ago. Hope that helps. Jim
Re DB2G/J Hi Jim, Thank you for sending the photos unfortuanaly I could not open the smaller photos, Do you still have your BD2G still working fore you today, Any photos that you might have with the things that you did with her. (It's Allway her). Talk to you some time Have a Good christmas and new year. By the way Happy Dozin Cheers Wheelybin
Keenlo, do you happen to have a diagram or photo of the tool you made to get the clutch pack out? I had a brake band rusted to the right clutch pack and have to remove it but can't get the clutch pack to budge. Don't see how to get the flanges to move away to be able to lift the clutch pack out. Thanks for any help you can give! Ciao ya'll.....rg
Jim I just bought a BD2G and need a maintenance manual for it ,can you help me out. I think I got a great deal it only has 1560 hrs but I want to know how I can find out what year it is, the last owner thinks it is 89 or 90? Thanks for any help you can give me.
Hi C68, Contact me on: [email protected] & I'll help you. Regards Jim
i don't have the tool I made close at hand but here is a sketch of what it does. What you are trying to do is to get the drum and clutch pack to slide away from their flanges as there are lips that hold them in place and stop you slipping the whole assembly out. Normally when you remove all the bolts on the flanges you can thread a couple of these bolts back in a few turns and give it a tap with a hammer and that will break things loose, the clutch pack will slide into the drum and you pull the whole thing out. In my case the clutch pack was full of rust so the spline was locked up pretty tight so I couldn't get it off the lips. With this tool you put a bolt in fully in the inner flange and in a few turns so its still loose on the outer flanges then use the press screw to force the clutch assembly to compress. I only left the bolt on the outer flange loose because it puts the force through the thread and is likely to damage the threads a bit so I only wanted to do that on one of the parts. The bolt on the inner flange was one the originals that has a concave head so helped kept the press screw from slipping off. You should probably use a longer bolt on the outside flange so it has as much thread engaged and possible and that might save the thread there. With this tool you do a bit one side then spin it round and do the other and keep going and eventually it may free up. I also heated up the drum as much as I dared with a propane torch to give it all the help I could. If you are patient you should be able to get it apart...the other option is to cut the drum and buy a new one. Let me know if you want the dimensions of the tool and I will try and get it in the next week. It is pretty simple to make you just need to make sure its small enough to fit because its a bit tight.
Thanks for the help Kneelo. It would be a BIG help if you could get me the dimensions! Ciao ya'll....rg
Sprocket Tooth width Just wondering if any BD2 /BS3 owners have OEM sprockets (not weld on rims)....I need to know the width of the sprocket teeth,please. Usually they are maybe 40-50mm wide. The weld on rims are often wider than OEM size. Thanks Jim
Jim, I'll check the BS3F this weekend when I get over to her. I'm working on the lower rollers anyway this weekend if it's not raining. I know ther are original Mitsubishi. BubbaGoat
HI Bubba, Hope your machines are going OK. My rollers also need attention,so I started removing the track guards.I had 2 broken bolts in a matter of minutes....Jap bolts really are rubbish. I'll await your reply. Thanks..Jim
Jim, The rear sproket thickness on my BS3F measure 37.2 mm (on an original Mitsubishi sproket) according to my caliper. It varies a little on the part I was able to check, but don't think they are worn significantly. I was able to check a thicker section by the teeth that extends in from the track and should have little or no wear since the metal does not touch it. I got off my rock rails (track guards) on the first side, and only had to hammer a 16 mm wrench on one of the bolts to grip it as it was so rusty the 17 mm slipped on it. They all came out after an impact or ten from a hammer on the end of the wrench. I got lucky on this side. All of the through bolts between the inner rock rail and the outer rail had been damaged by the loose rollers allowing the track to rub on them. Off to the bolt store Monday. I hope to have the 5 rollers bolted on this side by Sunday evening. Let me know if you need anything else and I can measure it as well. Bubbagoat
Hi Bubba, Thanks for your help. I have a pair of chains/plates here that might fit a BS3F....only thing is the sprocket can't be wider than 40mm.Looks like I'm in luck. I just removed my track guards.The rollers were totally shot,so the guards had suffered.As the machine only does light farm work,I'll leave the guards off after rollers are replaced. Good luck with your repairs.... Jim
Can a Dexcerlator be ffitted to the Misubishi HI jim, Have not spoken for a while, Have been so busy with spraying that it's not funny, Any way can a dexerlator be fitted to the Mitsubishi BD2H or not. Cheers Wheelybin.
Hi Wheely, Can you give me a call one night. I'll PM you. For any Aussie BD2 owners,I'm about to import undercarriage .If you need anything,let me know via PM. Jim
Changing the Steering brakes and Drums need to change fluids I just have just replaced Both the Steering drum and Brakes took about 4 Hr didnt have to remove the tracks to replace. it took a little time to get to the bottom bolts with a open end rinch. Now I have to adjust all the linkage and it should take 2 Hr or so. also, If anyone knows about draining all fluids for the BD2G
where can I find some used attachments I have a DB2G would like to find a hoist and backhoe attachments
Jim, I Sent you a PM.
It won't move!! Just bought a BD2F and worked fine for two days. Now it will not move forward or backward unless I push hard forward on boith levers. I noticed that the left lever will not spring forward when released like the right side. Any info is appreciated as this is my first dozer. If it is clutch related How much has to be removed, ie?: tracks ect? Also I am in need of manuals as I have not located these yet. Thanks in advance for any advise. CJ
You can get manuals at Rhines, http://app.vendio.com/storefront?view=CAT_HOME&sid=308115&mode=1&catId=1373969 get the service and operations manual. I think I payed 110.00 for both but they have everything you need. As for the clutches look at the spring and valves under the seat. I just bought my BDG2 and have a lot to learn. GOOD LUCK
Is there just no drive or does it stall the machine? I have a direct drive BD2G which I assume is the same and that yours is a direct drive machine too... no drive will be a steering clutch issue and if its stalling its a band brake problem. Either way its sounds like you need to adjust the linkages. The manual extract to adjust these for the BD2G is floating around in one of these threads I think, otherwise I can send a copy in a few days. Might also pay to check the oil level in the main drive clutch housing as I believe this is also the oil supply for the steering clutch release mechanism. I'm guessing if the oils low it could do funny things.
Kneelo /Crash68, Thanks fo rprovided info so far. I removed the seat last night. Not confident to go to far yet as no Manual to review. I looked on the Rhine site but seems manuals are sold out. I will give a call first chance to check status of these. I have noticed mention of two 15/16" nuts to tighten and back off 2 3/4 turns. Also the mention to check Springs and valves under seat. I have not located either of these as of yet. Any hints to location is appreciated. Meanwhile I guess I will have to wait until manuals are located and ordered. I was hoping I would find some small issue but probably wishful thinking. Can anyone advise if the tracks need to be removed for further troube shoot? Does the dozer need to be off the ground to allow the running gear to be free of pressure? Sorry to be asking so much, just hoping to get ahead of the game and be ready for teardown if required. Thanks again, CJ
Hey Calvin, Sorry to hear of your trouble but am sure if you bought it right even with the parts required you won't break the bank. Anyway your problem could be a few things but what baffles me is that it will move if you push the levers toward the engine...??? Check to make sure the linkages are adjusted so that the clutches aren't always partially disengaged and when you push the levers it allows them to engage again. Bascially pull your levers and see what rod linkage is moving and where things move and you will be able to figure it out by adjusting the linkage. mark everything or take a picture of it before attempting JUST in case it makes things worse so you can put it back the saem way.
Oh.... You dont' have to remove the tracks but just get it off the grounds IF you tear into it. I have the manuals for this machine so just shoot me an email if interested.
BS3e problem with steering Hi haven't been able to find any info on this bulldozer its simillar to the BD2f which I have service manual for but the linkage to the steering brakes is different, I have had a play with it, it steers with one lever but very limited with the other I have tightened a spline type nut at the rear which seems to take the slack out of the control levers but doesn't correct the problem I was wondering if anyone has a diagram with the adjustment dimensions. cheers john
G'day John, I think you rang me once about this BS3E. I sell spares/manuals for them & have one dismantled in my shed. Your machine has a Mitsy 4DQ engine,I believe. Almost all the Mitsy crawlers I find need steering work,but it's not a bad job really,compared to some other crawlers.I can supply plates,if required. PM me with your email address,& I'll email 3 pages to you. Regards Jim
Manuals on the way, but time running out as I am due to head back to Indonesia in a few days. Thanks to all for the information concerning my problem with the BD2F. I will start the tear down and repairs on my return to the states next month. Thanks again CJ
bd2f steering clutch removal first post here, and may i thank all of you for the help i have read so far. I have read and reread this thread at least a dozen times and can still not figure out how to get the clutch assy aout of the machine.:Banghead I just bought the bd2f and the right steering clutches are shot as well as the brake. looks like a bad operator took care of the brake and moisture took care of the rest. tonight i did the unthinkable the brake band needed replaced anyway and the drum didnt look like i wanted to reuse it so both of those are out. (in pieces) guys i have to missing something simple here the bolts are out of the drive flange coming out of the differential and it will seperate just a few thousands. every thing just seems bound up. after looking at one of the diagrams there is another set of bolts, these are on the outer side of the disengagement assy. do those need to come out? TIA
Sorry I was just use to a different machine.
brake drum is already out (in 3 pieces)
so then the clutches are out too? I'm confused. ????
no the clutches are still in the machine. I cut the brake band, and the drum out. and everything is still tight.
Did you push the clutch shaft toward the final drive or pry it. The whole assembly comes out with the slip yoke. I was thinking of a different machine when I first replied to you.
yes, if you are refering to the lever that disengeages the clutch pack. like a clutch fork in a automobile. it will move a little both directions. i have had a 6 ft bar on it with all the preassure i dare put on it in both directions. still no luck. the clutch on the right was stuck when i bought the machine and i did manage to free it. but the brake was gone on that side. after i opened up that side, well it needs a total rebuild as far as i am concearned. but i got to get it apart first LOL. FWIW i did notice what looked like a sleeve in one of the bolt holes on the inner flange and i imagine there is at least one more but have no idea how to get those out. I also purchased a bs3 loader with backhoe. thinking i should have just stayed home that day.....
call me tomorrow sometime on my cell. Too tired to type anymore. I'm turning in now.
thanks for the invite. is your cell on your site? if not shoot me a email with your cell# [email protected] ready to turn in myself, the japs have won for today....
@ darinray, photos just sent. thanks for all the help.
for those who are following along this has been a bear to get out! the drive drum (drum inside the clutches) had broken. how it was even able to power that track is beyond me. at first i thought maybe i broke it taking it out, but after better inspection it was a old break. also there are 3 hollow alingment dowels in the flange that i had to remove, this may have been due to the drum being broken and not allowing enough room to slide the clutch assy toward the final drive. some broken springs too. It looks like i am getting broke in well with my first dozer.........
Hang in there T-Bird. I'm pretty happy with my BS3F, it has issues, but am able to fix what I need. I may need to re-open up the clutch/brake on my left side to replace some parts soon, but am willing to do that if I need. I've already done new bottom rollers, and fixed the pins on the bucket so they would take grease. It has seen some rough use from my using it to pull stumps, but is still going strong. Bubba goat
its really not that bad of a job. but being the first and as much as was broken it was tough. I think that the inner drum being broke just made it that much more difficult, looks like if it had not been broke it would have been a snap.
update, waiting on new clutch springs. they should be here monday and I cant wait. I am really looking foward to get this machine back together. I have it tore down in a one car shop and needless to say its getting pretty crowded in there LOL. I test fitted everything in the machine and going back together is going to be a breeze. with mine having the inner drum broke there was no room to seperate anything, with the new parts i have close to half of a inch which is more than enough room to get everything back in. thanks for all the help guys!
I have a BD2G that has a steering problem. The left side will stop pulling after running a while. I figured it was the steering clutches, so I replaced the Clutch disc (both plates and fiber), new clutch springs, drum and brake band. Put it all back together and it ran great for a while today, then started again. No oil or moisture in housing. I check the adjustments and evrything looks okay. It is funny because it will come and go as you run the machine. Sometimes the left side pulls and then stops. You can pull and release the left lever several times and it will start to pull. Any ideas? I am wondering if it could be in the steering valve somehow.
where did you get your new springs? I had to have mine made. I sent them a old one to go by. if your new springs are not the correct tension they will allow the clutches to slip. the left hand track on my bd2f slipped yesterday, and it had good reason to! the rock i was moving was bigger than the dozer!!
T-Bird, I got all my parts from KTBaugh.
OK. I don't know what happened. Ran it a couple of hours yesterday and it slipped on the left side. Needed fuel so I added 8 gallons and ran it today. First few minutes it was slipping and then it started pulling like a monster and turning on a dime. Ran 8 gallons out and it's still a monster. Going to keep my fingers crossed !!!! Thanks T-bird for your input.
it may have just needed to get everything seated in. Kent Baugh is good to deal with, my clutches, brake drum, brake band all came from him as well. however he did not have the springs at the time. the track thats stalling on mine is the other side that i have not redone the clutch pack in. i suspect it has some broken springs in it like the right side did (4 out of 8) broken on the right hand side.........
darin ray see post #72 is good to deal with also. I have delt with both of these gentelmen and now ther are my go to guys when i need parts.
Ok Guys, it's been a couple of months but I have been busy on other projects. Back to the Sterring problem. I have talked to Darin and Kent and they have given me some tips but nothing has worked yet, so let's see if anyone can figure this out. I am baffled. Left side not pulling strong. Replaced plates, clutches, springs, drum and brake. Put back together and after a few minutes started pulling great. After running a couple of days this is what it is doing. Both tracks will pull great. Then all of the sudden pull right turn and left side quits pulling. Can sometimes tap brake pedal and it starts pulling again. Go another 20 feet and try to turn right and same thing again, but not always. When it is pulling it will climb the side of a building, but when it stops, it's like the left side has disengaged. This is an intermitent problem, so I belive it it is not in the clutch pack, but instead somehow the left side just doesn't seem to have any power going to the clutch pack or somehow the pack is being disengaged as if the trowout clutch is releasing. This thing only has a little over 1000 hrs on it and is in perfect shape otherwise. However, I am about ready to take the torch to it for scrap metal. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. I live in Charlotte, NC and have been looking for someone around here that would work on it for me, that understands it better, but no luck so far.
I know the left hand side of my BS3F hangs up, and does not always return to the fully engaged position. The vertical shaft seems to be rusty, but the previous owner had added a bolt to the linkage that allows you to manually return the lever to the engaged position (forward) and force the rotation of the vertical shafts that control the clutch and the brake band. I suspect that these vertical shafts are rusty, at it sat out in the Georgia rain before I got it. I did remove the drain plugs and let the water out when I got it, and removed the covers to let it dry. Still have not had the time or the inclination to clean it up, keep thinking that if I do it will need the clutch pack and other stuff, but it runs fine for now as long as I push the lever fully forward. Bubba
what bubbagoat said. it sounds like something is in a bind not letting the clutches fully engage. how much free play in the steering levers? they may need to be adjusted, FWIW mine have almost 3 inches of free travel at the top of the lever. dont give up, i have been working the snot out of both my bd2f & bs3f. they will do more than i expected in the rocky soil we have in south west virginia, it just takes a little longer. I have been grubbing trees with root balls in excess of 8 feet in diameter with the loader, never expected a small machine to do that untill i tried it.
i work a machine excavator mitsubishi ms 110-2, it has a problem the swing does not move, i need help...
Ok. It's been a few months I know, but I just wanted to update everyone on my left side steering problem that was causing me headaches in case somebody else runs into it. The machine was slipping and not pulling on the left side, so I rebuilt the steering brake bundle. It still had the problem where it would come and go and finally just quit all together. I pulled the entire section apart to include the release clutch. I found the flange to be a little bent and determined the shifting fork was binding at times and would work great other times. I replaced the flange and rebuilt the release clutch section and put it back together. All is great in Mitsi land now. That for all the help and suggestions everyone had.
Glad it's fixed That's the way to go, glad you got your problem solved, and nice to see you posted the solution. It may help somebody else one day. I love my mitsubishi's, even though I don't run them much, they are great when I need them.
well its been almost a year since i was in the RH side of the machine with no problems, now I am having trouble in the other side. already have it torn down but I have a quick question. what have you guys been using to compress the clutch springs? I had a rigged up mess to compress mine and I am afraid of one of those springs putting a eye out or some other body harm. Thanks
never mind, I fabb'd up a tool just a few minutes ago. It didnt work perfect but made one good prototype for the next one. if it would have worked the way I had planned it would have done two at the same time, and with a few minor mods it will do two at a time.
Please send a photo, I may need to do this sometime, and would like to know what you used. Thanks Bubba
bubba. I will try and get a photo up next chance i get back over to the shop. there really is no good way to make this tool cheep. basicaly all i used was a section of 3/16 or 1/4 key steel cut into two lenghts just short enough to go inside the inner drum. I layed each one on the washer just outside of the retainer and took a piece of 1/4 X 2" plate and welded the key steel to it, drilled a hole in the center and ran a piece of threaded rod down thru the whole thing with a washer and nut on the other side. it did take some minor tweeking to be able to get the c clips out and you really do have to watch what you are doing and be carefull.
c heck your pump connection or for being loose or Check the pump for being loose
BD2Folks, I just finished the Steering Clutch job about two weeks ago and thought I would share my notes. Cheers. Steering Clutch Repair Mitsubishi BD2g2 5-6-2012 I wrote these notes up for those who might be facing Steering Clutch repairs to their small bulldozer. I am NOT a mechanic or machinist and I only have a “farm-type shop”. Cash flow dictates I maintain my own equipment. Here are some suggestions/notes you might want to keep in mind when repairing steering clutches on a small dozer. Situation: The right steering clutch actuator was leaking. This actuator is nothing more than a hydraulic cylinder in the shape of a 5” diameter donut. When hydraulic fluid is pumped into this cylinder it pushes clutch forks into the dry clutch pack letting the clutch slip a little, thus the dozer turns right. Two o-rings to keep the oil inside the cylinder rather than in the bottom of the dozer cavity and generally making a nasty mess of things. My large((about 4inch diam)) o-ring was broken, thus the hydraulic oil was leaking/pooling in the brake/clutch cavity. This AWOL hydraulic fluid could also ruin your fiber clutch disks and brake linings. Notes: 1.) Better get a Service Manual, in order to make a game plan. 2.) Use lots of rusty bolt penetrating oil and lots of patience. Snapping a rusty bolt off in that cavity could set you up for some problematic easy-out work. 3.) Contrary to manual you do NOT have to remove the tracks to do this repair. 4.) Support the dozer off the ground with timbers so you can move tracks with a come-along. This allows you to access the trackside flange bolts thru the trackside access port. 5.) Above the track sprocket is an access port which allows you to loosen the trackside clutchpack/brake bolts. You will need about 24” of socket set extensions to reach these bolts from outside the machine. 6.) Have a torch handy to help loosen the bolts that hold clutchpack/brake to the trackside final drive flange and inboard bevel driveshaft flange. PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE! 7.) My dozer was very rusty in the rightside clutchpack/brake((CB)) cavity, situated within the frame. Left side was much better/dry. Brake dust and leaking oil truly made a blackhole mess. If this is your situation I would recommend powerwashing with some detergent first. 8.) After removing all flange bolts the the clutchpack/brake((CB)) should lift out in one unit, IN THEORY! I used a come-along suspended from the roof frame and sling around the CB to crane it out of the cavity. I also used and 18” steel bar((brass would have been better! Where can I get one?))with 2 lb hammer to jar the CB from its mating to the two flanges. Be careful but firm with the hammer. 9.) Remove bolt, bolt keeper and specialty heavy washer from end of driveshaft. These parts hold the inboard flange on bevel gear driveshaft. 10.) Make a stout puller to remove the inboard flange from the driveshaft. The driveshaft is splined and maybe rusted. To remove this flange you will need to use oil penetrant, some heat, a CRAZY amount of torque on the puller. A couple of days for the penetrant to soak in, under puller pressure. I felt as if I was going to break that flange any minute then it popped loose. A wise friend suggested a multihole, 1” thick puller. I agree, the stouter the better and you may be able to protect the flange that way. I also hammered on the puller abit to jar it loose. There is not much room in that cavity, use the above mentioned bar/hammer combination. When you finally get the flange loose, without breaking it, take a break! You deserve it! 11.) Remove the donut shaped hydraulic clutch acuator cylinder(DSHCAC). The same wise friend suggested pushing out the donut piston with a blast of compressed air. Catch it before it hits the ground!! 12.) At this point I had to replace the two o-rings in the DSHCAC and reassemble it. Shouldn’t to big of deal----not so fast. During re-assembly there is much opportunity to pinch, nick, shave these o-rings and their plastic keeper rings. Remember this is why we are doing this project, the o-ring was damaged and allowed oil leakage---CAREFUL is the important word here. Clean the o-ring slots till they shine. Fine sandpaper any rust or dirt away from the assembly area. Lubricate the dickens out of the o-rings and cylinder. I used a bench vice and two large c-clamps to EVENLY push the cylinder back together. It did NOT go easy. In retrospect I would definitely consider having a shop press it together in order to make it go together square and in a controlled manner. I would like to know any tricks you may have for this reassembly. The dozer has 6 hours of work since rebuild with no leaks but man I wonder if I did the cylinder reassembly carefully enough??? 13.) Disassemble the CB on a bench in a clean work area. Inspect disks. When re-assembling keep brake drum on, to protect the fiber disk’s teeth. Support the CB on blocks so you can work both sides. It is easy to cross-thread the bolts that hold the clutchpack together!(Guess how I know?) The springs are quite strong. I used two 6” long ½-20 bolts to pull the CB together which allowed me to CAREFULLY rethread the CB bolts. 14.) I had the brake bands relined at Industrial Brake Reliners in Arvada, Colorado. Chris Montoya was easy to deal with. I did not require new fiber clutch disks but he had some that looked just like the BD2’s . 15.) If you could Disassemble you can Re-assemble, no worries. Re-assembly was straight-forward and enjoyable compared to the disassembly of heavy, rusted bolts and flanges within the cavity about the size of a file cabinet drawer. The stress of snapping off rusted bolts was gone also. I think this covers the big issues I had. A shoutout goes to Offgridman and Darin Mitchell at www.dm-machinery-sales.com for their timely postings on Tractorbynet.com. Adios, Sidehiller in Colorado
Great summary sidehiller. how much was it if you don't mind for the relined brake bands? I'm probably close to needing to do this on my BS3F, or send me a pm if you want. Bubbagoat
OK what did I do wrong, the steering friction discs assembly from a BD2G is being removed from left and right side, but the right side we have an oil well in there so the hydraulic steering clutch cylinder assembly has to be repaired and the oil seal on the main shaft. I have tried every thing with a good hammer and a long steel shaft with a lot of penetrading oil but no way to even slightly move the inner hub, I'm trying to find a short puller as space is limited hopefully that will help. What other choices do I have before I put the torch to it,any one with the previous expirience and would like to share is highly appreciated. Alexi
Alexi, If you are trying to remove the "inboard flange(rather than trackside)" steering clutch pack then you HAVE TO use a puller. A large bolt (+/- 13/16ths or so) and an odd looking washer must be removed from center of flange because they hold this "inboard flange" to the driveshaft. My puller required a CRAZY amount of torque to get the flange to release from the splined driveshaft and the shaft was not very rusty at all. Use heat carefully cuz there IS a bearing in there that could be affected. I think, Darin from dm-Machinerysales.com in NY told me he has never used heat to pull that inboard flange. Good luck, Sidehiller
About $65 for each brakeband relining. Cheers, Sidehiller
BD2G2 Folks, I just noticed in my may 12, 2012 post i typed 1/2-20 bolts used to pull the clutch assembly back together. I suppose most of you figured out I was trying to say 1/4-20 by 6inch long bolts. Cheers, Sidehiller
Wow, it sounds like steering clutches are the most troublesome thing on these. I changed mine out about 6 months ago. I ended up cutting both drums off. A full replacement of drums, brake bands, clutch packs, metal & fiber. It runs like a dream now. I was wondering if anyone knows where to get replacement decals for these? I am going to call Rhine equipt about this if I can't find any other sources. I am planning a winter paint job after I add sweeps to my BD2H.
Oh by the way, I got all of my parts from KTbaugh. super nice and good guy. Really helped out a bunch with advice on the project. That is another place I will see about getting my decals. Almost forgot about that source.
I bought a BD2G from a neighbor of few months ago and had to replace one idler and 3 bottom rollers I have been reading this thread on steering problems and has been very helpful in understanding how these dozers steer.I am having a blast using it around our place. I do have one question. My BD2G has a intermittent problem steering to the left sometimes it works and sometimes I need to tap on the brake pedal. I also have to pull the steering levers all the way out towards me (end of travel) before either begins to steer. Is this correct or should they start to brake sooner ? I am wondering if this is a adjustment problem. I am new to using a dozer and not very good at explaining things. I would think that steering should happen with in the first 6 inches of the lever being pulled . Thanks.
Your steering lever should engage the brake band much sooner than that. You need to adjust the linkage. Do you have a manual? If not, look back through the posts I think someone has scanned and posted them. Good luck
My dozed was set up the same way when I bought it. The previous owner had let the adjustment out to compensate for badly degraded steering clutches. I eventually changed out the whole assy. And now it steers great. I would try to readjust the linkage.
Thanks jeremy, I thought the levers were pulling to far out . I will take a look at the adjustments I remember seeing a diagram somewhere. Is it diffucult to check out the out the steering clutches ? I am hoping mine are OK. What did it cost you to replace the steering clutches? Thanks . Jack
There is no way to inspect the steering clutches without a full disassemble. In my mind, if i go that far, then I am going back with new parts. My situation was worse case. I had to replace the drum, metal and fiber clutch plates, and. Brake bands. Each side cost 800 bucks
Well I hope its just an adjustment issue. I have read on this forum that it can be quite a job. Thanks
Mitsubishi BD2G Service Manual Hi Jim, We are also in Oz, NE Vic. Looking for a service manual for a BD2G, having a few steering probs. Do you still have copies? Dave (New user and I don't know how to PM you)
I have electronic copies i can send if you can give me your email.
kneelo, If you could send a copy of the BD2G service manual to [email protected] would be great - thanks. Much appreciated. CowboyDave
reddog848, do you know how much hydraulic pressure is required to operate steering clutches? Both clutches are weak. THis is on the Mitsubishi BD2g.
Reddog848, do you know how much hydraulic pressure is required to operate steering clutches? Both clutches are weak. This is on the Mitsubishi BD2g.
Guys I have tried to start a BD2 Series dozer page on Facebook as I don't get in here much and use that a bit more and easier for me at least if anyone would like https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mitsu...80115635363459
kneelo, would you pls. send me an electronic copy of the Mitsubishi BD2G manual? Thankyou so much...our machine is not steering at all. It goes forward and backward fine and everything else works fine...it looks near new but won't steer. My e-mail is [email protected] Doug Peck Thomaston, GA USA
Good Description!! Just completed this job over weekend and wanted to reach out and say your description was pretty spot on. Im doing both brake bands and clutches on mine. Wanted to give a time frame though. Right side took about 3.5 hours for me to remove and the left took about 1.5 hours total time, Although I had the same issue of a leaking seal somewhere. Still hunting for it actually but the cleanup of that cavity was not fun nor clean. it must of took 2 hours alone to clean..
I could use a copy of the service manual if you have one for the BD2G....Kneelo!!!
[email protected] ..........A manual would be a huge help
my gosh time flies, its been over 8 years! I got busy building a home, still have both of my machines but have a engine related issue. new thread? and where to put it? Thanks
My little db2g has intermittent steering issues as well. Works fine when it’s cold but when it warms up on side stops. I found that all my hydraulic oil was milky though. Could that cause it? Watered down from something cause it to be less vicious Also, Is the hydraulic cooler built into the radiator of the engine coolant?