Have any of you guys ever used this stuff. I have used it before but how perminant is it. I know it is not as good as line boring but for a cheap old track loader that may see 100hrs a year would you use it. RayF you dont need to reply lol
I once saw it used to "fix" the center main in a Scania V-8. It wasnt pretty, 50 or so hrs later. And of course it was a " shoot the messenger" thing. Ugh.
here is a link to the stuff http://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1111.aspx
I have used it a few times. It seems ok for holding in big bushings. I find it likes to flake off if you use it a surface repair . It gets like a brittle plastic when it hardens.
Their rubber type stuff is great, the metal not so much. Obviously there are applications where it shines or they wouldn't be selling the stuff, but as I recall we didn't have much luck with it when we tried it. About the same as the DevCon products.
I used to see it used for cracks in engine blocks. I know of a couple of Komatsu and Cummins engines where it was used and they went on long enough that I lost track of the customers.
client of mine used to use it on D10 ripper bores to try and get a bit more life out of them. I'll never forget the smell of it when I was welding the bores
Hi! Sorry, I'm quite new but saw this thread and though I might weigh in. I have seen Belzona 1111 used to bond in new bushings on pintles in shipping and for heavy tracked gear. Seemed to work fine and lasted too. The flaking might be down to preparation, when we used it anywhere that wasn't prepared flaked off but if the metal was prepared as per the instructions it stuck like anything. RayF - I imagine the smell was the epoxy burning!
Why didn't you make a clean up cut before you welded lol somebody was trying to tell me the other day that there is an epoxy you can weld to. Not sure what the point of that would be. If you are gonna weld it anyway why mess with smearing that stuff in Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Take as many clean up cuts as you want. There seems to always a bit left somewhere that melts and stiinks out the shop.
Lol ray I wish I could come down and see you work. Your pictures just aren't enough. I've got ADD and can't focus on things very well but I can stand at a lathe or mill all day long. I bought my first lathe and mill a few years ago to make parts for my gas powered r/c cars. They were an Emco compact10 and aFB2 wish I still had them they were very well built machines. I think I am one of the few who knows how to use a dividing head in my generation and have been self taught or read or watched how to do it on the internet. When I first got my div. Head I asked a machinist friend of mine if he would come help show me how to set it up and he said what is that thing for. I like doing things by hand instead of sitting at a computer an typing it in Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Ok, so of line boring is too "right" and costly, why not build up with weld and grind back to as close to round as possible with a carbide burr and die grinder. I've had better than expected results doing this and can only assume that it lasts better than an epoxy compound? Got some pictures of a PC210 I did some work on, was a last minute weekend affair so I had to make do. I'll see I I can find them...
Pictures found: I'll take all criticism! I couldn't put it back together as it was! No more than a few hours with a welder and die grinder, it wasn't perfect, far from it. But made a hell of a difference.
Yair . . . good job simonsrplant . You will get full marks and no criticism from me. That is typical of jobs that have to be done when working in remote areas. Sometimes the expected duty cycle of the unit does not warrant the cost of a proper line bore fix. I have resurrected various bucket/dipper sticks with weld and some four inch grinder disks on a mandrel. You can work the disks down to bore size with tungsten and finish off with a Maori hone. . . I had an oddball 5/8" "Milwaukie" drill to spin them that did four thousand revs. In extreme cases it was often better to cut the whole mess off and make up a new end for the stick, a new pins and new ears and linkage on the bucket, a couple od days welding and you're back in business. Cheers.
Hi: I used to used it for building up the liner Oring bores in Cat engines if they were rough. Awesome stuff if used as directed.
There. The perfect application. About 2 years ago I did a teardown (inframe) of a D9L 3412 that had number 4 left piston go sideways in the liner. The lower linerbore was trashed. The local engine machine shop bored and sleeved it and used the Belzona to resculpt the chamfer above the sleeve. Shes been out burning fuel like a champ ever since.
Hi we used BELZONA solution for the repair of the turbine that is in a degraded state, my question I would like to know how many times can utilier this solution for the same turbine (eg 3 times COATING the same turbine) the second issue the possibility of estimating the lifetime of the turbine after the BELZONA thank you for your reponse
Frozen snot.
Did anyone try to repair a damaged cilinderrod with belzona? Really curious if this works, i know it works really well on cavitated cilinderliner bores but they dont move as much as a cilinder rod
Hydraulic cylinder rod? Yes for scratches and gouges. If you mean engine cylinder rod, I would not try it.
For hydraulic cilinder rods ofcourse, is it durable ?
I have never used the Belzona but have seen some success with epoxies in years past. Typically the higher the operating pressure the lower the chances of success. Preparation of course is everything to get a good bond.
I might try this, smear some old rod up with Belzona and see what happens
Yes, obviously you have to roughen up the surface a bit like with a die griner, and we used to clean with acetone but perhaps there is some better way.
I have used it on a couple of small cylinder rods. I used a thin cut off wheel and gently made the scratch deeper, so it doesn't flake off. Than filled it with belzona and sanded smooth. so far it has lasted 4-5 years.