I would like someone to give me a time estimate or cat book time on removing a steering clutch to replace the seal that keeps transmission oil out of the final drive on a D6D. I have never been into one but I have the tooling and pancake puller to pop the flanges and I also have the repair manual for the machine. There is no cab but there are sweeps and limb risers, I have read the manual and looks like a 30 hour or more job just wondering how long it takes you experienced guys with no major problems. Also I assume it would be a good idea to go through the steering clutches while they are out.
Yair . . . SE-Ia Cowman . Best part of a day for two blokes to get it out, same to put it back . . . and in between there could be a long and indeterminate period of spending money. You may be lucky but I seldom have been . . . very rarely are those jobs just a simple seal replacement. Very often when you get in there you will find you have opened a can of worms. Quite apart from problems with the clutch itself, play in cross-shaft or pinion bearings are two items that come to mind. Sorry to be a wet blanket but that's just life as I have found it. Best of luck with it. Cheers.
I agree. Once your in there you should do cross shaft bearings, steering clutch release seals and the other final drive pinion. Now if one of the pinions outboard bearings are failing you will then be into the final drive and so on and so on.
With no Cab or an easy Cab to unbolt, not all rusted up and full of crap as 1 battery sits in the left side panel, it takes me around 2 days by myself to do both top pinion seals, on the D6D the top pinion has a bump of steel before the thread starts needing a longer adapter to press the flange back on, this is a change to the D6C type top pinion, the nut is 3" that screws onto the thread, if you think?? the pinion seals are letting oil migrate it might be worth pulling down the F/Drives. tctractors
Pinion seal generally passes oil from final to steer clutch houseing. Likely the oring on the reduction pinion on the tractor side. Bad business to not replace both upper pinion bearings at the same time. Going to have to figure on a final drive also.
I've never found it necessary to repair that seal. Let the final fill to the level of the transmission and nothing happens. It just runs on anyway. As others above have stated, when you open an old casket, you usually just find bones. In this case very expensive bones.
Thanks for the info. I have been in to the final drives on these machines several times and have the tooling to pull the sprocket and press it back on so if we have to go that deep then it will not be a problem. I have heard a lot of people say dont fix them just let them equalize But the owner wants it fixed and I will be glad to repair it as he is a paying customer, I thing I will give him a heads up on the can of worms that we could possibly be opening though.
To give you a time scale on stripping the final drives, with bolted track links I can strip out both track frames and strip out both final drives on a D6C/D down to the main chassis, with the hub and inter' gears stacked on a pallet leaving only the top pinion gear in place in a good day with hand tools, if I have the use of air wrench kit It can send you home an hour earlier, but its as easy to do both sides as just the one as the kits out, dont forget the pinion flange adapter on a D6C will not fit the D6D as its to short. tctractors
Any chance you could share that manual, my D^D is stuck in reverse and I can't seem to correct it. Thankyou, Sean