If you have been following my other thread about the Ford 555 transmission problems, you know that the torque converter broke internally and sent metal particles through the shuttle. I will soon be reassembling the whole thing, but I would like to utilize the best oil filter that I can get in case there are still some circulating particles in the oil. A Fram PH16 fits, and they are dirt cheap at Walmart, but I would like to find something better. There is room for basically any length filter. Recommendations?
That's an engine oil filter, right? it won't be hard to get a better filter than a fram engine oil filter. I'd go to the donaldson, or baldwin, or wix, catalog in pdf and find the thread size, gasket diameter, and match that up with a hydraulic filter in whatever length you want. Synthetic media will last longer, but not worth it to me if you plan to change the oil and filter soon. https://www.donaldson.com/content/d...00-ENG/Hydraulic-Filtration-Product-Guide.pdf
What's the OEM Part Number to get a decent cross-reference..? Trying to figure it out using the Fram number is like trying to make a copy of a key that's already been copied who knows how many times before..? I'd go Donaldson for preference.
I don't know what the OEM filter # is. I am just going by what is on it now. I was mostly just asking for a brand recommendation. I had heard that WIX filters are generally pretty good quality, but wanted to hear some more opinions.
Anything is better than Fram. An empty housing would be better than Fram. In that case - Donaldson
You should find out what the oem filter number is. As Nige said, this is a Fram engine oil filter off the shelf at walmart, that mostly fits. What do you think the chances are that it's the correct filter? Get the correct number and it might be the bigger one you're looking for, at least it will be a benchmark to decide if you want to improve, then you know what should be there. It might be the correct filter, given that this is a ford, and a transmission filter wasn't a high art at that time. An engine oil filter wouldn't be unusual.
From your other thread I saw you had "a manual". I was under the impression that you had access to parts & service information. If not maybe someone else can chime in regarding what the OEM Part Number of the filter is supposed to be.
Deleted the rest of what I originally posted as I saw that the filter I had found on the Ford/New Holland site was the wrong thread size if the PH16 has the right threads. Guess we need to know more details of this Ford Backhoe. OP should go to: https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::model_find And put in his model number and go from there. There is a long list of 555's that come up there! Then take the part number listed there and go to Donaldson at: https://shop.donaldson.com/store/en-us/home And search for the Ford part number there.
Yeah, I do have a manual at home, and it should have the factory filter part number. I, however, am at work, and remembered the Fram number. Like I said, I was just really looking for a high quality brand that people have had good success with, and would recommend. Thanks
Have had good luck with Donaldson, Baldwin and Wix. Only a few Wix but they are the only one that has a few fuel filters we need. Really like Baldwin for hydraulic filters. Thing to watch for on cross references is the micron rating. Often cross lists will show a filter that fits but has a higher than OEM micron rating. As stated best to know OEM specs first. Then choose a filter. Fram filters do have a purpose - we use 'em to prefilter waste oil for the furnace. Gets the sticks and rocks out.
In technical terminology - "dogs, small children, & tree branches" ..........
I didn't think about caring about a decent quality filter for these beasts, now I do, and I've taken notes. Thanks fellas!
As everyone else has said, don't. I've been using the Baldwin BT5. OEM spec and at the time I bought a bunch of them, cheap to me due the volume of Baldwin filters we were buying. You can cross that number to WIX or Napa. You're dealing with a catastrophic failure and must sanitize the inside of that transmission housing, front to back and every piece in between. When that's done, a filter change frequently will take care of anything you missed. The previous owner(s) did nothing for a very long time producing the clogged screen that you have now. If I were you, I'd buy a filter cutter and open up the first filter after a days work and see what's between the pleats. Depending upon what you find, you can schedule your next filter change accordingly, but will eventually find that annual then 200 hour intervals are more than sufficient. The Ford shuttle is a beast. A little care goes a very long way.
Good Grief Nige ! Good call on the Fram filters. Too bad the fellow only did some automotive filters.
Do you seriously expect their non-automotive filters to be any different as regards quality..? It's a shame he didn't cut a Donaldson filter open and compare it to the others.........
No, I certainly expect the industrial and construction equipment filters to be the same cheap crap. I would have liked to have seen a Donaldson and a Fleetguard cut open also. I think the creator of the video is probably a car and light truck type person.
Yes but that black grip paint on the Fram makes up for the crap inside the can!
Actually, that black grippy stuff is a great idea for filters. I wish the other makers would put it on theirs. However, after watching that video, I won't be buying a Fram ever again.
Yes ! And ole dumass just put a new Fram on his backhoe. 0 time on it and it is coming off as soon as I get a replacement.
It is amazing how poorly some of the name brand stuff is. People get all excited by K&N filters. Their oil filters are rebranded junk. Their air filters let particles so. If pass through you might as well run without it.
Tinker cut it open and let us know what the inside looked like.
just for information, baldwin makes a very good cross-reference book and sometimes you don't even need the manufacturer - just the number and it can usually tell you the manufacturer. their application book is not as good though. I prefer the book but I think it is also on their website. I prefer fleetguard but also use Donaldson or baldwin. sometimes you don't have much of a choice in my area
Most of my stuff, fram is fine, but donaldson or baldwin aren't much more either, and you can't get odd ones in Fram. I cut open most of the filters I've changed, and never found a failure in a canister oil filter. Some cartridge filters put together wrong. A fuel filter that separated inside, but it had been on for years. I figure the filter doesn't burn up or leak oil, or make the engine overheat, so it's not likely to kill it.
The guy in the video said the filters were return filters? Kind of soured me on his production right to start with. Next item is that he doesn't define what quality means. He put some good examples but doesn't state why the center reinforcement is better or even why it might be needed. Lastly, the filter media quality isn't something you can just hold in your hands and decide one is better than the other. One might be longer and more bunched up in the canister but maybe lets a larger particle go through. Maybe the media traps smaller particles and plugs up faster. In truth all filter media used for automotive engines is made of cellulose. It's basically wood fiber. My last point is that it is never defined by anyone what is actually needed as far as a filter goes. I would venture that if you change your oil often, there is a good chance with today's advanced oils and automotive engines that you may not need a filter at all. The presenter is basically stating opinion without real facts to back them up. If you want to read some good material on engine oil filters, check out this link. It has plenty of propaganda but enough kernels of truth that you might be able to use in the future. https://www.cat.com/en_US/campaigns/awareness/intro-cat-filters.html
Bought a couple of NAPA Gold filters, and after I had a few hours on the first one, I put a fresh one on last weekend. Didn't even start the machine until this afternoon. Got about 100 feet before the machine stopped moving. Thought I was back to the old transmission problems until I saw the large stream of oil behind me. Believe it or not, one of the filters had no rubber gasket on it. Should I have noticed that it was missing when I installed the filter? Obviously! Of course I had discarded the other filter yesterday, or I could have retrieved the gasket off of it. Yes, I should have noticed, but I am more than a little bit irritated that a premium filter was missing the sealing gasket. Guess I should have stuck with $3 Fram filters from Wally's. Lol
You're supposed to oil the rubber gasket before you install the filter. Know a guy with an auto repair shop that had the gasket stay on when removing the old filter but didn't notice when putting the new filter on. He also had an auto salvage and replaced the engine for his customer because the oil leaked out. Customer should have noticed the oil gauge or idiot light but he blamed it on being tired. He had spent 12 hours running my skid steer all night clearing snow. I was working full time and he said I shouldn't let my snow contracts go. I don't know if I'd consider a Napa Gold a premium filter but should be decent enough.
I guess if there is a good side to my story, it is that the backhoe not only got a new filter, but it got a fluid change too.
NAPA Gold filters are WIX. Parts numbers are even the same except for a leading digit. They are good quality but Donaldson filter are better quality. Double gasketing is always something you should check for. You spin off the old filter and the gasket stays on the filter mount not the filter. Once this happens to you it will never happen again. You will always check for this. Besides the embarrassment of having all the oil leak out, possible mechanical damage and cleaning up a huge mess are enough to make you add a step to your work process and look for the old seal.
Believe it or not, I did look to make sure that the gasket came off with the old filter. I just didn't make sure that the new filter had one on it.
I guess my best excuse is that oil was drizzling out after I removed the old filter, so I hurriedly stuck the new one on without really looking at it.
It’s always worth bearing in mind that good quality oil and filters are far cheaper than component rebuilds.