I was working the CAT 941b today, grubbing out some stumps and hydraulic fluid started spewing out of the upper (bucket tilt) cylinder from the piston ("shiny") end of the cylinder. I suspect the seal is blown so the question is, does anyone know the procedure/process for fixing this. There are four 1 1/4 bolts on a square fitting on the end of the cylinder, along with a hydraulic hose fitting that I suspect that will have to come off but that's about the extent of my knowledge on this subject. Any help would be appreciated.
I think if you search the track loader section someone posted recently some good photos of "how to" do the cylinders on your loader. Best thing is the cylinder can be disassembled without removing it from the machine.
Here's at least one of the threads on tilt cylinders. .............. HeavyEquipmentForums This one has photos - it's a lift cylinder but the principle is basically the same. HeavyEquipmentForums
Is the oil coming from around the shinny rod(ram) or is it from under the clamps that hold the hose on? Or third question is it coming from under the part those big bolts hold on ? Maybe this picture will help:
Thanks Nige, the pictures gave me some helpful hints on getting the end-nut off which looks like one of the more challenging aspects of the process. It looks like from the picture a 2 3/8 socket and a large "persuader" is in order.
IIRC I saw the hint of using the head of the cylinder as a "slide hammer" to break the piston free of the taper on the rod. Bear that in mind.
From what I can tell it looked like the oil was coming out around parts 8 and or 11, on the ram end
The seals in the head (there are 3 of them plus a fibre wear sleeve) have most likely given up the ghost. Better to get a complete kit and re-seal the piston and the joint between the head and the barrel as well. "The Book" lists 5 different Tilt Cylinder Groups for 941B - 3G-8085, 5J-8028, 9J-9749, 9J-9750, & 8J-5937. According to the same book all of them use the same seal kit - Part Number 241-8925.
Thanks Nige, I'll have to swing by the CAT dealer.
According to my price list, it's all of $92 ..!! Before you go buying, check your cylinder part number. I know what the book says, but the plate on the cylinder may say something different.
Also before you go through the hassle if tearing apart and putting back together make sure that the chrome rod is completely smooth any scratches or nicks will tear the new seals within hours usually and you are back to square one
Yes be sure to check for the tag that should be on your cylinder. Write down all info on it, most cylinders have Change Numbers there also. And as mentioned check the rod for any damage. Many rods are available as exchange or possibly the Cat Classic style which might be an option for a machine used less often.
Nige, I swung by and took a look at the cylinder. On the plate it has 3G-8085 (one of those you listed) what looks like "CHA 0" below the 3G-8085 and at the very bottom a "7 7C".
CHG0 (Change Level 0) is effectively the first version of the cylinder ever built. Tell the dealer your cylinder part number and just ask him to confirm the seal kit I quoted is the correct part number for your cylinder.
And for what it's worth, while you're in there re-sealing the cylinder, you might as well do it's twin brother on the other side of the machine. If it has old seals as well, chances are it will be leaking before long.
That's very good advice. Just wish some of those management types thought that way. Reseal one today and then a month later have machine down again. But they like to get "Full Utilization" out of the equipment. Not like in the old days here where down time was bad.:Banghead
Nige, The dealer confirmed the part number was indeed the same as what you gave me. Their price was slightly higher at $101 but that didn't seem too much out of line from what you had given. Thanks for the help. I'm heading down to the farm tomorrow to begin the process. I'm hopeful all the bolts come loose without too much persuasion, the end-nut doesn't require a 10-foot breaker bar and the piston comes off easily but that's all wishful thinking.
your best bet for the piston nut is to make a striking wrench. Just hake a good heavy plate about 3ft long welded to another piece of plate with a hex cut out of it to fit the nut. or if you have enough of the big plate make it all one piece and hit the end with a sledge two or three times and it should come lose. I just did this on a 951b and made mine out of half inch plate for the hex end welded to a piece of 1"x3"x3' bar and it took 2 hits with the 12pounder to get them lose. Mine were a 2&9/16" wrench
We probably get a bit of discount for being a big customer. Go to one of those earlier linked threads - IIRC someone noticed the piston was installed the wrong way round on the cylinder when photos were posted. Make sure yours isn't the same while you have it apart.
Taking the advice and changing the cylinder's "brother", not twin but a close resemblance. The other cylinder has a different tag number on it, 8J-5937 (CHG 1), but from what Nige posted it should be the same seal kit. I'll double-check with the dealer to make sure.
A very smart move for $100 in parts IMHO.