Hello everyone I have a 2016 S 530 Serial number ALR814863 It’s kicking my butt . I’ve put new high pressure pump ,injectors ,common rail new fuel lines from rail to injectors. New pick up tube. I even replaced all the rubber lines from tank. And new fuel cooler new bypass valve. New return lines. And the fuel sending unit also new filter and filter housing. It screw into the filter head and I rented a diesel laptop and coded. My injectors. To my machines. Ecm. I can’t seem to get it to run. I’m throwing. Error code. E000106-04 I’ve been struggling. With it for close to 8 months now I’m just shy of. Pouring a couple gallons. Of gas on it and torching it I’m so frustrated and yes I bled. The air out of it oh and one more thing. I also replaced. The cheesy little. Primer bulb. I think this things haunted. Or possessed it’s a doosan. D24 motor in it. It only has 1000 hours on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don’t know where to go from here and I can’t afford to pay Bobcat to fix it. After all I’ve spent on it I’m up to my neck in this thing thank you guys any help will be much appreciated.
Does that thing have a timing belt that is by any chance broken or jumped a few teeth. What was the original problem for you to put so much into it. Simon C
I was getting. Massive amounts of fuel. In return lines on static test. 2of the 4 injectors. And at that point I didn’t. Want to. Take a chance of buying a set of injections only to then have them fail. If pump or rail had more contaminants in them because then not only would I have to buy another set of injectors again and I’d still have to buy the whole system, so I kind of had no choice.I don’t even know what to think I’m beside myself frustrated but I had my mobile. Diesel mechanic buddy. Do the pump. He mentioned first lining up marks on cam crank. And pump gear. Before. Removing. Old pump not sure about. Timing. Belt. To be 100% truthful with ya. After pump was installed I did all the rest but felt better about him handeling. The pump installation if you know anything that might get it up and running. I could sure use it. Thank you.
If that pump is timed, which most of the high pressure pumps are, and it is out 1 tooth, little chance anything will run. Timing has to be exact, so does computer knowing exactly where crank shaft is for it to signal or start injection. Of course if there is air in fuel system, not likely to fire. Is wiring good to speed and crank or camshaft sensors. Timing belt if it has one? Did you have some manuals for some of this work . Just a few questions. Simon C
Quick google search of E000106-04 brings up manifold pressure sensor low. Low means low voltage (short to ground) not low pressure. First thing i would do is look at wiring and connections. Then use logic. Did it run before it was dissembled? Do you have fuel supply pump? Fuel at hp pump. Fuel at injectors. Fuel in return line? A little ether can help spin fast enough to build rail pressure
With air filter out you could spray heavily with WD-40 or sea foam or something like that into the air intake while the engine is cranking to heavily coat cylinder walls. All engines love excess oil on the walls for starting, Could give it a snort of either at end of cylinder wall lubing and it better fire up. May only run for a few seconds but should start. Please make sure block heater is plugged in if you have one. Let me know what happens. Simon C
I’ve got fuel at pump and injectors. I looked over all wi wiring no it wasn’t running before disassembly it’s trying to pop, but it just won’t start there’s no lift pump other than. The one on high pressure pump when you say manifold in regards to that code I’m throwing what manifold is that? Referring to?
I got to thinking about what you said Simon, so I took the front cover off motor and sure enough it was a tooth out of time I put it back where it belonged button it back up still no start no timing belt now I know for certain it’s all gears. I don’t have the maintenance or shop manual on the bobcat. I’ve gotten all the technical that I’ve needed from Bobcat. They were been nice enough to email me. Illustrations of whatever I needed so far, as far as my torque specs and hose, routing and all that stuff wire diagrams, no more air in the fuel lines, turns out that the bypass valve was getting air in the system. I replaced that now in same boat won’t run.
I did the WD-40 trick and the ether, and it did fire up, but not for long, but as long as the ether would burn, I didn’t want to do a bunch of it. I know how bad it is but it can definitely run. I just wish it would. and when I let the glow plug cycle and just crank on it, it’s Poppin throwing out smoke out the exhaust trying to start. It’s almost like one of them. New injectors is bad and it’s not building rail pressure or something that’s all I can figure I don’t know but I’m I got ready to start blocking off injectors, one at a time on the rail and see if it builds pressure and fires on three till I can think of to do next even though the static test didn’t show any excessive signs of return out of the injectors I don’t even know what to do at this point it’s throwing a code E000106–04 I tore into it and realized that it was a tooth off on the timing of the pump so I corrected that thought that might be it still won’t start and stay running without either. Where do I go from? Here is my next question.
Maybe your cylinders are worn out or glazed. Take a varsol gun and then heat up some transmission oil till fairly hot, ( oil in a coffee can raised off a table with heat gun shooting under it ) and see if your gun will vapour spray the transmision oil like mine will. Spray some of that into the engine air intake with it cranking. If it fires and continues to run, then you know you have a cylinder issue of low compression. If you continue to give it sniffs of oil and it keeps running, then you still have a fuel injection issue. Don't go spend way more money without doing this simple test first. Just for your info I ran a Briggs and Stratton engine with no carb or fuel tank off of a can of WD 40 for over 5 minutes non stop by just giving it a continuous small spray mist from the can. That proved the motor had a fuel problem. You need to prove you have a Diesel injection system problem or something wrong in your cylinders. Worth a try. Simon c
Try removing the main drive belt. This will up the cranking speed, and that is absolutely critical on this engine. If you have a injector block off cap try that, it will start and run just fine on 3 cylinders. These engines and fuel systems, (injectors especially) are admittedly finicky. Are the injectors from Bobcat? We have had several new (oe denso) injectors be "sticky" and not fire when installed. Denso China seem to be worse but. . . Have hope, it can run
When I had a socket on the crank. Pulley nut getting it to TDC that dude had a lot of compression. I keep getting a e000157-03 I just did a continuity test on the rail pressure sensor and it didn’t seem to be having any continuity when I touch my probes to the little tabs on the sensor. I’m just about. To torch this pos and be done with it. It’s been kicking. My a#s way to long. It’s stressing me out. How much can a guy take before he loses his. Cool. And flies. Off the Handel oh one more thing rail pressure sensor. Is brand new with the new rail it came with the shot gun barrage. Of parts I shot at it. I’ve been digging all over. My shop for old rail. To try testing that sensor. And just my luck can’t find it yet. I’m digging ugggh lol and the really cool part is it’s broke down about 1/8 a mile from my shop out towards my creek. It’s making me crazy I think if I spray. Wd it will continue running. So it’s not a cylinder. Issue I’m positive it’s fuel. But how I don’t know it’s. All new system. It’s haunted I think
Hey Thank you I do have a block off. Cap. I was thinking about my new injectors. Maybe. Failing. How do ya deal with a sticky. Injector. ? Replace it. ? That be a crying shame if I had to replace an injector that’s brand new I’d be so pissed off. I have had new parts fail me before, so yeah I can see where you’re coming from. I will try that matter fact, I’m gonna try that right now just start at one and block off one and then try it and then block off another then try it see if I can’t narrow it down least get it in my shop instead of working down my hill Appreciate the advice. Thank you.
No the injectors. I ordered. Off of eBay with a whole. Fuel kit
Do you have a local fuel shop that could test them? We test with just a cheap hand pump pop tester and a also cheap injector driver (electric) unit. Sounds a lot like one we changed injectors than would not run, we wasted a LOT of time time we circled back to the new injectors. Those we replaced, but have had several where one or 2 would not fire for a while, a healthy dose if injector cleaner and they "unstuck"
The boss where I worked ordered some exhaust manifolds from E-Bay. No getting the $2500 back and had to throw all in garbage bin. Got some gasket kits that had to die grind the holes to get head bolts through the steel part of head gasket. I could tell you stories for an hour about some E-Bay stuff. Maybe the injectors you bought are junk. If the engine will run continuous on Oil or WD40 you still have an injection problem. I would never buy injectors for myself off of E-bay. If it starts and runs and takes out the walls of a cylinder in 100 hours, you will know what I mean. I have seen 4 times with faulty injectors. Simon C
Did you by any chance change a starter, and the new one cranks opposite direction. Have seen 2 times in my life. Had to ask. Simon C