I just bought a 1999 Bobcat 873 skidsteer. I think it has like 2400 hours on it I have owned skidsteers before, but never a Bobcat. This machine was used at a fertilizer factory so its rusty. or final drive, etc I was thinking about getting some derusto stuff and spraying inside around the pump and lines. Then Im thinking how this will work, if I need to replace a hose The serial number has been rubbed off by a hydraulic hose, so I have no idea excatly what this is. Im not sure but I think its a Kubota, pretty big engine Just wondered what everyone has to say about this machine
A '99 873 should have a Deutz oil cooled engine in it. And if you don't know the machine service/repair history, at 2400 hrs, you might save yourself some aggravation by going ahead and replacing the timing belt. If it lets go, gets more [less] interesting. The 873 was a rather big machine, but it's weak point was the loader arms. They would lift so much weight that you could crack the loader arms. I've seen some ugly patch jobs on those booms.
Thanks ATCO/Willie59, I did notice a crack on one of the loader arms I really thought it was a Kubota engine, because I really have bad mouthed Deutz engines. I have only had one and that was a bad experience. I did notice it had a top cooler over the other cooler, so I guess it is a Deutz. The top cooler was bypassed (two hoses hooked together) what is this cooler for? I havent spent more than 30minutes looking at the machine, I had my guy clean it up, what a mess How do you check the hyd fluid, I didnt see a sight guage, but it could be a dip stick I got the machine for $3000 and I just wanted it around the shop to help move things and load dirt in one of the trucks Engine seems real strong, but only ran it for 10 minutes, hydraulics seemed strong, but I didnt have a bucket on it Thanks for the info
$3000 was a good buy.
Check those loader arms good for cracks or signs of stress failure, make any repairs or mends as needed. Last I checked, a new set of bare loader arms is over 6 grand, and a good used loader arm frame is near impossible to find that ain't damaged. Here's what your engine should look like, there should be two coolers (radiators) above the engine, one for hyd oil and one for engine cooling oil. Location of hyd sight glass. Check level with loader arms down.
yep thats the engine I did find the hyd sight glass, what kind of oil goes in it? As I stated before, the top oil cooler is not hooked up, the hoses are hooked together. I still havent worked it yet, Im working on a old tractor International 574. Im guessing, the cooler maybe leaking, but I wonder how the previous owner worked it without the cooler hooked up HUMMMMMM I am missing a side cover on the bottom/right side. I might have to make one, if I cant find a used one I think someone recommended that I change the timing belt, what is involved in this? does engine have to come out? Is it under the front cover? Final question for now, how do you check the final drive/chain oil and what goes in it, besides Bobcat brand Thanks for all the answers, great pictures and info
That was a really good buy!!! :notworthy I think all Bobcat loaders take Bobcat hyro oil only (at least thats all i have ever used). The timing belt is under the front cover........... and that looks like a bear of a job to me, but i have never done a BC so i dont know for sure. I would also recommend at least giving the belt a thorough inspection before you run it much, and replacing sooner than later. You will be money ahead to just get it over with! Good luck..
Sorry, I had a power outage last night about 8, just now getting back. The chain case level is the pipe plug in the very front of the machine. Like barklee, I use AW hyd oil in chain case and hyd system, either AW32 or AW46 for higher ambient temps. And I would advise checking out that oil cooler and making any needed repairs. You could work the machine a bit without the cooler, but forget about heavy work or using attachments like a brush cutter without that cooler. The timing belt isn't a big project if you replace it now, before it breaks. You can do it with the engine installed. There is typically one special "torx plus" screw that holds the timing belt cover on, seems like it's at the bottom of the cover, unless someone previously threw it away. It's simply a notched, flat, timing belt. Make locating marks on all the cam and crank pulleys with a paint stick so you can note if they move when replacing belt, you have to get the belt off and back on without moving crank or cam pulleys. Once you get pulleys marked, loosen the tensioner, slip off old belt, fit new one, and tension belt. A whole lot easier to do it now then wait for belt to snap.
i bought a 2000 model in 2001 with 700+ hours. don't use it very much, but it has served me very well. i have recently had a few minor problems, but i think mainly due to not using it enough. 1700 hours and going strong.