I have a Case 1835 Skid Steer. I start the skid and it starts well but within 3-7 seconds it will die. I have checked and cleared all fuel lines, checked the fittings that go into the fuel pump and changed the fuel filters. There is also pressure in all junctions between the tank and the pump that I am aware of. I am out of reasons why the skid will not stay running and eagerly await any suggestions from the board here. Is there any chance that the pump is no good or that the rig is simply too low on fuel (I can’t tell the fuel level on the skid). Thanks
Does this have the Case 188 diesel in it? There is a rubber gasket in the injection pump on this motor that falls apart over time, the pieces of rubber will then clog up inside the pump. It will give the exact symptoms you describe. This happened to me with a Case trencher. Exhaust all other possibilities, then pull pump and have it bench tested at a shop that rebuilds pumps. This is a pretty easy and inexpensive motor to work on, all things considered.
When our skidder gets low on diesel it does that too. We usually full it up and get it going buy pulling the injectors and cranking until there is good flow visible.
@74inchshovel - Yes this is the 188 diesel. you are the 2nd person to tell me that it could be the gaskets or O-rings in the fittings that cause this issue. It looks like I have to take the pump off and into the shop. However, when we run the pump with the key in the "on" position fuel seems to flow fine through the pump but it continues revert to shutting down eventually. I do like the simplicity of the motor thus far but this is a bit of an inconvenience as I have a bunch of projects for it - but then don't we always.... @Logan - I will try a fill up but I am not too optimistic at this point.
just a thought , but how is the return line back to the tank , have had similar problems with floating objects in fuel lines under pressure lodge in an elbow or junction , then dislodge when the pressure in neutralised ( can be a real horror to find )
Just a thought. I believe the solenoid (coil) that controls the fuel pump will have 2 windings. A pull in winding (when you turn the key to crank creates a strong magnet) and a hold in winding (weaker magnet when you let go of the key and let it stay in the run position). Sounds to me like the pull in winding is working and when you let go of the key the hold in winding is open, meaning it will not create a weaker magnet to allow the solenoid to retain the position to keep the machine running. If you can, check resistance with an Ohm meter through both windings in the coil or try a new fuel pump solenoid coil. Good Luck, Z
@justridingby - I thought of that too and it seems that the flow in the return lines is pretty good. How did you locate the object that was floating around? I have removed all the lines and can't seem to find an object that is for sure the culprit yet. Thanks Z2898. That will be my next line of inspections.
through pure dumb luck from memory , i flushed the tank quite a few times with no result , then managed to get a fine lenght of wire into the fuel outlet in the tank , it ended up being a small peice of cork floating up and down the outlet pipe and jamming under pressure in the elbow , pretty sure it was a bit of old seal from the fuel gauge sender unit
I'm having a similar problem. When it starts (1840) and runs for about 5 seconds the larger relay under the seat has a flash inside and then it shuts off, loosing power to the fuel pump solenoid. Is there a sensor or switch that causing this? Thanks
Just a guess on this one Kalore. Sounds to me like you are describing a seat safety switch that allows the starter to be engaged only when there is an operator in the seat. This switch typically is in connected in series within the starting circuit. When weight hits the switch it will make conatct through the switch and allow the starter to engage. No weight = no start. Usually when this switch remains open and does not operate properly the starter can't be engaged. You say your machine does start so this is probably not the correct answer to your question.
One more thing that might make sense. This could be the main circuit breaker for the machine. (again a guess) When these get weak they usually open quickly under low load (current-amperage) conditions. These circuit breakers are installed to protect the machine wiring should a short to ground occur in the machine wiring. Without the breaker the machine and wiring will burn up during a short to ground condition.
The seat circuit operates when the seat bar is down, this is happening when the seat bar is up.
Do you know how long it takes for the circuit breaker to reset, that could be the issue, I'll check Thanks
Welcome to HEF Kalore19! You should be able to start your own thread now if you wish - good idea as your problem is different to 1835 & will be easier to find in the future - for reference purposes. I would guess you have one of the last 1840's with an EC engine - bosch inline injector pump? (please confirm) These have a yellow timer relay (not circuit breaker) under the seat & I have replaced a few in the past. - is this what you are describing? Only ever bought them genuine.
Yes that is the one. After about 5 seconds it flashes and the fuel solenoid looses power. I'm sure it must be a short some where and it then breaks the circuit breaker, I'm guessing
Your shut off solonoid at the injector pump has 2 coils built into it - a high strength one to pull the rack & another to hold it in the run position - possible that the one that holds it is gone. The time delay relay controls the high strength power - the flash you see is it probably just doing it's job. Try turning on the ignition, then manually pulling the shut off to the run position, it should hold there. If it doesn't hold check if power is getting there, if no power your shut off solonoid needs replacing.
I have a case 1835c that I can't keep running. It will start but stall almost immediately. I will start right back up and do the same thing over and over... Any ideas would be great
Have you tried to start and run the machine without airfilter , of course not operate the machine but just let it run without airfilter , sometimes air filters may look OK but not giving enough airflow . it is worth and cheap to try , never know.
See post 16.
Or the whole thread. ( roll eyes). A lot of good tips in this one.
i need to get my non-running case 1835c into my garage for rebuild, anyone have experience on hydro bypass or disconnect... rather not pull drive chains off.. any help would be great thanks
I'm having the same problem. I've done the same thing. Did you ever get it fixed?