correct me if I'm wrong . I believe the float function is when you push left foot pedal on the toe all the way down. It should snap in and hold until you push on the pedal heel. with the arm all the way down and the tilt pushing the machine up in front it should glide down and as I travel follow the terrain when back dragging. I have worked on this kinda thing on a T190 and believe I understand how it works. So I checked the travel of the left foot pedal found it to have plenty of reserve (not at the end of its stroke). I have push hard and frequent still no float. I don't think there is anything else to check? My problem has to be with in the valve body. An o-ring , manual offers no idea. That spool is a pain to get out, the detent balls and springs go everywhere its a can of worms. maybe the front of the spool has something blocking it from going all the way in to were the float kicks in. Does anybody have a clue? I am willing to improvise a fix/go around?
So you have no float function, or it will float but not stay in float? there sure could be something stuck in front of the spool, IF it is supposed to have a float and it won't float at all. I've seen oil fill the end cap a couple times and stop a function, learned here that a screw backing out will do the same thing. Maybe a bobcat expert will come along and tell you for sure.
It wil not float at all. bobcats footcontrols all have that function. I guess that's the first thing to take off is the end cap. oh boy thats were the detent springs are, I guess if it comes apart it does not matter it does not work anyways. On my T190 I just left them out then you have to leave toe down to keep it in float, but thats ok too because it is usually brief that I want the function
ah it turns out that the end cap was loose with the detent balls in the end forcing it to stop short of float. so removing it brought float back , now I know why, because the only way it can get there is someone worked on it. It only leaked when in float? It needs a seal and put back together right. by removing the spool. its a total mirror job. thanks for the suggestions.
You might not have to remove the spool to replace the spool, some valves use a washer on top of an o ring that will pop out the end without removing the spool. Work the spool without the stuff on the end to work the seal out of it's groove. If that's what you were asking.
well the spool needs to come out because the detent balls and spring are impossible to install in place. just to work on it I use mirrors with one hand. on the bench is the only way, I will rebuild the float/end cap, then its just a matter of sliding it in the valve body, I only have one hand to work it. This is so difficult I can understand why someone would cheat and do what they did. The spool is not really that hard to take out, once the front linkage is free it will slide right out the back. you have to twist as you pull so as to not shred an o ring.
well... i can tell you from experience trying to look in a mirror and work is just gonna make the job even more miserable... i lay sideways across the frame, get my right arm around the fuel filler hose, and work by feel.. use a 1/4" dr allen socket, extension and short ratchet. most 3/8" dr allen sockets are too large in diameter to clear the detent bonnet. if i pull a detent assy apart it gets 2 new springs, 4 new balls, and new detent ball retainers.... it's only the 1st 1000 or so spool seals that are the hardest... they get a lot easier after that