How about some ideas from you pro's on how to remove those stubborn bolts on my dozer. Bolts threaded into the frame are difficult.
Give us a little more info Dave. You mean, bolts that won't turn? Bolts that break off? Threaded into frame or nut on backside? Elaborate a little.
Are you changing the bottom rollers on your dozer farmerdave?
Here are a few fairly obvious suggestions. If you can get penetrating oil onto the end of the threads, try that. Allow time for it to work and apply repeatedly. Some stubborn bolts will rattle out with an impact gun. I've had luck with an impact wrench on bolts that might have broken off otherwise. If all else fails, carefully apply heat using an oxy-acetylene torch. Heat and cool the bolt a few times to break the bond. Sometimes it comes out best before it cools.
Trying to remove the bolts on the covers over the track adjuster on my TD7H. They are threaded into frame. Already twisted one off already. I am replacing the track and need to make sure the there is no rust on the track adjuster shaft
I like to give those tough bolts a good smack on the bolt head with a sledge hammer.It will help loosen it up.Hope this helps.
I know the bolts you are talking about been through the same thing on my td8.The best thing I've found to use is to heat them.
i am not familiar with macihine, nether i know size of bolts, but if they are easily acessible, then i would not care if i would break off all of them First of all, as already 25 suggested, give them a good smack, just try not to damage bolt head, so thet you can still put wrench on them. Heating helps as well. and finally if heads are sheared off, take a nut 1-2 sizes bigger than the bolts thread, and weld it on. it will give good heat right to the bolt, and you'll have a new head. Depends on how stubborn the acctual bolt is, the first one may break off again, but it's almost guaranteed that 3rd will get the job done.
Ive always used heat. Heat the threaded area of the frame though not the bolt !
Usually with those bolts , you can't get at the back of them to heat them because the cover is in the way , the heads are half eaten away . I don't mess around with them , i just screw the heads off them so i can do the work i need too . It's a pretty easy matter to drill the shank out and re-tap the hole after the covers are off . Use Cadmium coated coarse thread bolts with Stockholm Tar on reassembly and you will never have trouble again .
Thank guys, I appreciate all your advice and the ability to use this forum to obtain help.
I'm sure time is a major player in how "stuck" a bolt is but when we were running our dozers 1500 to 2000 hours a year it was changing undercarriage every 3 or 4 years we never had too much of an issue getting track bolts or roller bolts out, just make sure they are good and clean and a nice coat of never sieze. Helps a ton. However, in the case that they do get stuck. Impact gun is number one, taping on bolts with a sledge, using some penetrating oil. We have a gear reduction tool as well. Heat is usually a last attempt but have used it plenty as well. Just one of them things you deal with on equipment. Fun stuff. Trbo
Heat it up, then cool quickly by spraying with water. The rapid cooling will help to break the rust better.
Could you tell us what Stockholm Tar is?
It's common name is Pine Tar. This may be a interesting read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pine_tar
If the bolt is broke off flush or just below flush, lay a flat washr on whats left of the bolt and weld it first. Then weld the nut to the washer. If you have a air hammer available,use it on theweld, as soon as it turns that nice gray color. Just get a good lean on it and let it rattle for about a minute. This combination generally gets them loose enough that you can take it out by hand, if it wasn't so stinking hot!!!!!!! A interesting note to this, when changing bottom rollers if you break a bolt up in the frame rail, stick a piece of pipe in the hole and weld it to the remaining bolt ,then weld a nut on the pipe. Good Luck Heath
My computer did not want to open the link VT posted so i could not see what it said . It is a black liquid tar that is mainly used for vetrinary purposes , cuts on horses , sealing cow horns after there cut etc . It is also used as a thread sealer and an anti seize for water pipe threads . If a dab is put onto the threads of such bolts as on dozer walking gear etc , you will still be able to unscrew them with ease in years .
Thanks, never heard of that. We used to use white lead in the old days before anti-seize was common. Probably illegal now.
Bolt removal suggestion, Dogs, and Stockholm Tar: Iron Horse, remember the thread where we were discussing track rollers? And your little dog that got chewed up by Dingoes? Here's a picture of Stockholm Tar... Post# 31. OCR
Crikey mate , you've got a good memory , i'd hate to owe you money .
Used some heat and if they are not coming out don't worry about them, break them, remember the track and the idler protect the adjuster from being damage, just look at any 953c they don't have any covers.
Bolt removal suggestion: I thought you remembered that... when I said I wanted the bread... in the other thread... :lmao Just kidding of course... Didn't know I was a poet either, did ya... OCR...LOL
After you get them out and reassembled...why not put some anti-seize compound on the threads when you torque them back in?