My 530 was running fine. I pulled forward down hill a bit and it acted like it ran out of fuel. I put in 10 gallons of fuel and couldn't get it to prime. I pulled the inspection window off the side of the pump and it wasn't turning. I used the timing marks on the flywheel to hopefully line it up before I pulled the pump and found the driveshaft is broken. What would cause the driveshaft to break? I do have a spare one but don't want to just put another one on and have it go again. The pump was rebuilt before I got the machine but I don't know how many hours were put on it before I got the machine after the rebuild.
Generally, Drive shafts just don’t break.. it’s a reaction from something else going horribly wrong inside the pump..it’s seized. and the drive shaft breaks inorder to keep the drive train(gears) from destroying themselves.. Possible causes range from 1)sucking dirt and water off the bottom of the tank.. 2) loose pump mounting bolts. 3) stuck injectors. (1 will seize a pump in a NY minute) 4) gear train wobble.. worn bushings..warped gears. That pump will cost u upwards of 1100.00 because you don’t have a rebuildable core..so add in the core charge when your looking around. Get the # off the name plate and search apples to apples.. Dbgfcc431-???? I didn’t understand the “I have an extra” part.?? An extra pump w a drive shaft or an extra drive shaft.? If it’s just a drive shaft, put it in the pump and see if u can turn it.. If no, the pump is a paperweight.. I can reach out to a friend of mine and see what he has.. but I gotta know YOUR PUMP # first.. Sorry for your troubles..
Thanks Pump guy, I figured there would have to be a reason for the shaft to snap. I believe it could have been sucking dirt as there is some debris in the top of the pump. I changed the filters last fall but i guess that didn't help. With the top off I can see one of the governor weights has broken into the top area. I can't seem to get the broken shaft out either.. DAM looking like a paperweight. I meant I have a spare driveshaft. The pump is a DBFGCC 431 27aa
It’s 27AJ.. U can’t get the shaft outta where.? The pump or the gear.?? Ur gonna have a hellofa time w the gear.. that end has a key or roll pin in it.. & when the pump seizes, it rolls the dr shaft in the gear..& shears the key or roll pin.. making it virtually impossible to get it free w/out taking the gear out and using a hydraulic press and heat to remove.. BUT WAIT.. there’s more good news.. If you take that gear out and don’t mark it to the case or another gear, your screwed.!!! Your in for a friggin nitemare.. everything has to be timed to each other inorder for it to fire..& if u take the gear out without marking it.. u lose all timing references.. I’ll have to wait on Monday to check for a pump.. I suggest U don’t d!ck around to much w the engine if u don’t know much about it.. OH.. in FRONT of the drive shaft, there should be a spring and plug behind the cover..DONT LOSE THEM.
Thanks, I do know a bit about the engines. I rebuilt one for my dozer a year or so ago. I know about the spring and plunger. I have a spare driveshaft and gear so I have those parts. I know enough to try to align all the marks on the gears and timing mark before taking it apart. I am pretty sure my gear has a dot on it. I hope the one in the tractor does too. I am having trouble getting the broken shaft out of the pump. I haven't torn into the front of the engine yet.
If your going to try to time the engine, the gear is going to flop around and you’ll definitely lose your timing.. I suggest putting the pump back on, just to support the drive shaft.
I aligned the timing mark on the flywheel before I took off the pump. Do you think that will be ok then?
But what stroke r u on.?? If your on COMPRESSION STROKE #1 cyl.. The key on the drive shaft will b at 7:00.. looking thru the plate on the front..
This is going to be interesting.. I was planning on pulling the injectors any ways to test them. Guess until I get the front plate off I won't know for sure where I am.
You could go ahead and have the injectors tested. They absolutely need to be evaluated. Do you have or need the engine service manual ?
I have the service manual thanks, and I have a pop tester. On my dozer I ended up finding a place nearby that sells new stanadyne injectors.
The part # for the injectors are stamped into the injector body.. Right above where the inlet meets the injector body.. it’s a 5 digit number..(Stanadyne) U might find less expensive options on the web..even original Stanadyne.. Unless u find 1 that’s stuck closed, ur gonna HAVE TO FIND what caused the seizure.. You can press or cut the head apart and it will tell u.. There’s a chart that u compare your seizure mark to.. U can probably find it on the web..
What happened..?? Did u throw in the towel.??
No, I have been so busy with work this week I didn't have a chance to do anything on it yet
Just checking on you..