Hey guys here to enlist some more of your wisdom. A friend of mine has a 1150 G Case dozer that is getting fuel in the oil. Ran for about 1.5 hours and crankcase was way over full. Any ideas on where to start looking? Have searched the forums here for some ideas but have come up with nothing. Any of your ideas or comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Scott
Sorry, forgot to say the engine is the 6T 590 Cummins.
My guess would be the injector pump is leaking from the front seal into the timing case or the lift pump may be leaking into the sump. Hope that helps Baz
Thanks Baz, my first thought was an injector pump seal, as he told me it was a couple gallons over full in an hour and a half of run time. Just wanted the opinion of some that may of had this same experience.
That is a lot of fuel to be bypassing. Sounds like a pretty urgent fix is needed. I have the 4 390 in my case. Did 9000hrs without incident till it started blowing the gasket out of the throttle housing for some reason every couple of months. Had it done up and have hardly used it since, so I hope it is fixed. Baz
I am new to the forum, so I'm not able to start a new thread but I have an case 1150 G that the motor runs but it won't pull and the hydrolics won't work. I have pulled both pumps seem to be pumping fine, gears on pumps are good, any other suggestions?
hydraulics I mean
Change you lift pump.
i second that, take the lift pump off and check her out, I bet its pumpin fuel into the crankcase.
yottzy, welcome to HEF. When you say machine wont pull, does the engine lose power? or does transmission not perform? will it spin tracks in low gear if in a heap or up against a tree? Are your hydraulics weak in all circuits or just one or maybe two? Need a serial no. for machine as they have different control valves for hydraulics & there is a big difference in how they work.
thanks for the replies, when you refer to the lift pump are you talking about the charging pump? I have the drawing to it and the hydraulic pump and have pulled the charging pump underneath and when I turn it by hand it pumps transmission fluid. The hydraulic or top pump under the floor board I have taken loose but that's as far as I've gone with it, but to me it only runs the blade and the rippers unless the gear or something is loose or broken. something makes both pumps work at the same time and that's what's not working. Everything but the motor has shut down, it will move forward, backward, or raise or lower the blade or rippers. I really appreciate the input! keep it coming!
That statement is a bit confusing yottzy. For the sake of clarity, exactly what is "not" working. According to your statement, it will move forward and backward, it will raise/lower the blade, and it will raise/lower the ripper.
it will not move forward, backward, or raise or lower the blade or rippers. sorry I left out NOT
Ok, that makes more sense. But have no issues with engine running. Got it. Alrman is a Case wrench, with that info, he might be able to tell you what to look for.
engine starts and runs fine, tracks, blade, or rippers do not move nothing really moves. not sure about the S/N but it has a 6cylinder cummins
Be patient yottzy, alrman is in Australia, might be tomorrow before he responds, but he knows these machines fairly well and might be able to tell you what to do.
Been busy today, back at work Good work on asking those questions ATCO - :notworthy Yottzy, From what you have described sounds like the flexplate (#30) has broken between flywheel & convertor. Did the machine suddenly stop driving & lose hydraulics at the same time? At the bottom of the flywheel bellhousing there is a threaded hole - there maybe some debris there to confirm the flexplate is broken. The plate is stainless steel so a magnet may not work - try a hooked piece of wire. You will need to remove the convertor to replace the flexplate, the engine should be a 6T-590 - on the bellhousing on the left side of engine there is a small plate held with 2 x bolts - that is where you get to the heads of bolts (#33) that hold the flexplate to the flywheel - ( it should also have a bracket for engine breather tube) Pulling the convertor will involve draining both the hydraulic & transmission oil. Here to help :drinkup
1999 Case 1150G Dozer rippers and blade work but little to no track movement I got on the Dozer today and it moved about 30ft and seemed to slowly lose power in the tracks. The engine sounded fine but forward and reverse were gone, both high and low. I still had full movement of the blade and the rippers and could even lift the dozer off the ground by putting them both all the way down. I checked the hydraulic oil and it was low. I opened up the hydraulic tank cap and it let off a bunch of pressure and added some hydraulic oil. The dozer would move another 30-50ft and would do the same thing again. Removed the cap and then put it back on and it would do another 30-50ft before the tracks would not move again. I had changed the engine oil and filter about 10-15 hours ago and it was working fine before today. Any suggestions?
Ok, I'm a bit confused, are we still talking about yottzy's dozor? Or another dozer?
Sorry, this would be a different dozer but sounds like a similar problem. New to the whole forum thing. Didn't know if I should start a whole new thread or stick with this one.
Oh, Ok, welcome to the forum Phelps Angus. :usa Actually, if it's a different machine, it would be better in it's own thread, easier to look up that thread at a later date as opposed to try and figure out what obscure thread the info was posted in. If you get in one more post at a thread, after a short time, your status will be changed to Junior Member and you can start a thread.
Wow 3 different dozers in the same thread. Its clear as mud now. On machine 1 I would pull the lift pump and see if the pump seems to be putting fuel out the back. Rig up the inlet and outlet on some hoses to a bucket and stroke pump in a vise and watch the mounting area for fuel squirting out the back. Machine 2 you said the in your first post you said the pumps are pumping. Did you confirm this with a flow test? Machine 3 What does the hydraulic oil look like in the resivior Look contaiminated with anything? What did you fill it with? Is that fluid compatible? JJ
Yep this is getting a little carried away! :dizzy I think #1 machine is no longer a problem as the last post directly relating to it was in July 2010. Phelps Angus, Probably best if you make another post & you will soon be right to start your own thread. :thumbsup I don't think the hyd tank pressure has anything to do with your drive problem as the oils are not related. Moving oil quickly like picking up machine & dropping it will create air pressure in the hyd tank. I do think your drive problem could be the brakes coming on - they need system pressure to release fully - Can you park the machine on a small incline & check if it will coast down when you have no drive? Can you check pressures with test gauges? Yottzy, How are you going? Start a thread as well!
Alrman, I put the dozer on an incline and it did roll down the hill. Guess the brakes aren't the problem. I don't have gauges to check the pressure. Hydraulic oil looks fine. After the dozer has sat awhile, I can start it up and it will drive for another 30ft. It just doesn't have that much power and then loses all drive power after the 30ft.
Phelps Angus, Certainly is a strange problem....... if it was working fine one day & then not the next. If the park brake is not engaged it would indicate you have pressure....so it should drive The transmission control valve on the G model has some electric solonoids for range changing, it's possible there could be a problem in that area. Not saying you have an electrical problem, but the way those valves work, there could be some junk in there causing a solonoid to stick a little & dump some pressure. You really need to get some pressure readings to see what is going on. There should be some quick release fittings under seat where you have to hook up. You may need some profesional help. I can give specs if you require.
Might be a longshot, but worth a look. If your convertor housing has an internal leakage return line going back to tranny housing, you might want disconnect that hose, put a drain pan under the fitting on convertor housing (might have to rig a hose to direct oil to drain pan). Start the machine, apply brakes, and put it in drive. Throttle it up just a bit to put some load on the convertor. Do this test cold and warmed up. I don't recall the acceptable convertor leakage (oil coming out of that fitting), but thinking it shouldn't be more than a gallon in a minute, if that much. If you have a considerable amount of oil coming out of the convertor housing, there's something failed in there. I worked on an I-H 175B once that acted like this. Was dumping oil out the convertor drain line. Turned out to be a crack in the cast iron housing of the convertor. Crack opened wider as it warmed up and the machine slowed down. Was able to get a welding shop to braze weld the crack, machine is still running today. But man...was it a PITA pulling that convertor out of that old I-H. :tong
alrman, you hit the nail on the head, I came home tonight and pulled the bellhousing found the flex plate broke in half. Now just trying to find the parts. thanks a bunch for the input. Didn't start another thread because they didn't have me setup yet. I will next time. thanks again!
Thanks ATCO, I appreciate the input!
You're welcome Yottzy - I have only ever purchased those plates genuine. One out of two aint bad, now we need to sort Phelps Angus......... Been thinking about this a bit - when you parked on the incline & checked if the machine coasted it probably was in neutral? If the machine is in gear, would it move down then? The reason I say this is that it may be possible pressure is getting to 2 packs at the same time & causing the trans to bind. The seal rings on the shafts on the G were changed to teflon & they do give trouble. The ones that could cause this drive issue with you would be hi/low range - these are located at the rear of trans at the pto. Any other seal rings on other shafts would isolate problems to LHS & RHS. Usually when these rings play up they begin with a hesitation when you engage a gear - has there been any problems with hesitation or delays in gear selection?? With what I said earlier & ATCO's suggestion - I don't want to put you into information overload - but a mechanic with some knowledge & a test gauge may be of great assistance.
We are looking for help on an oil pressure problem we are having - the meter is pegged on our cat 12 99e - any help on cause or fix?
Take the injection pump off and put a seal on it. You have to find someone that has a key to set the timing and to get it off of the tractor.