Looking at buying a case 1150. Goes good forward. Right side won't pull at all in reverse. Pressure drops on dash when that side is put in reverse. I'm guessing a internal leak is bleeding off the pressure. How big of job is fixing this? Any parts break downs if it?
May be just a seal ring on the shaft or a worn shaft cap, blown gasket in the control valve, clutch pack, hose stopped up. You can go to caseceparts enter the 1150C under the model and select transmission and you will see a good break down of parts.
thanks for the reply. It it a major job to do the clutch packs on these machines? what about the seal rings ect? I've fooled with a good bit of equipment (rebuilt motors, automatic and manual transmissions,ect.). I just don't want to bite off more than I can chew. removing the tracks and final drives necessary? Since its dropping pressure when the reverse is applied on that side, its got to be bleeding out internally somewhere. thanks
1150c trans The transmissions are not to bad to work on, there is some service tools that make it easier. Your reverse clutches are at the rear. The thing you will need is two 1" grade 8 bolts around 10" long to help with the rear counterweight, it's weight can be up to 3000lbs. The shaft end caps are behind it. You will have to remove two bolts and install the dowel bolts made from the 10" bolts, cut the head off and round the ends, use a hack saw and cut a screwdriver slot in the end to help start and remove them. Remove the remaining bolts, with a lifting device, forklift, tractor, wrecker, good engine hoist, slide the weight back if needed. The end cap you want is the top one on the rt side. remove the bolts and copper washers, bump the cap and slide it off the rear, do not damage the shims under it. The cap may have groves or the seal rings on the shaft may be broken or worn out. If you have a gauge you can also dead head the line closest to the trans case and check for pressure drop with it in gear running. If when you place it in gear you have no pressure the problem may be a linkage issue, hose, transmission control blown gasket. If it maintains pressure it could be seal rings ,cap, shaft, clutch pack. If you have the means of a hand pump you can pump up the fitting at the end cap and see if it will hold any pressure. The system pressure 250- 310 psi max in the trans hydraulic. If you have to pop the cap you will need some 3/8 copper washers for sealing and a bottle of 271 red Loctite for the shims/gasket. This is where I would start. The correct way is a flow rater hooked up to the system with several lines that allow the complete testing of the trans system before you start in a real world. Since we are dealing with a single issue a few checks and may be a quick fix. The dozer are easier most of the time do to not counter weight.
Also install the dowel bolts in the highest holes if counter weight needs removal. I would order a service manual also if you buy it, it is very easy to follow, and priceless.
This one has a ripper on the back. So no counterweight. He has a service manual. I just didn't want to buy it and be stuck paying someone a lot to fix it. Thanks for the info.
Without knowing how much he wants for the manual it's hard to say, but even if he wants $200.00 for it I'd be willing to bet it would pay for itself if you saved one service call over the next couple years. Information is one of the least appreciated things there is to be had. One place to see some parts break-downs: http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr63301ag40688
Took the cap off and ring looked ok. The back one has a little clearance in the land. Put it back on swapped the hoses and position changed on the controls but still no reverse. I'm getting some fittings to plumb a pressure gauge up tomorrow. If it is internal, what parts are subject to fail? Considering its losing pressure, I'm guessing it's a seal or such.
Well after you dead head that line to reverse and get a pressure reading, not holding pressure possible control valve gasket. Holding pressure, once again the seal rings (are they hooked, amount of wear, cap groves. May want to pickup set of rings and recheck for reverse, they have to make the complete circle to seal the shaft to cap. You have to push down and push up to unhook them and then spread the ends to clear the shaft to inspect them. Once ok with them it's into the rear cover, to check the clutch pack. Could be a blown snap ring on the pack, bad piston seals, worse case a cracked shaft/ heavy wear where the clutch pack aliens with the oil holes in the shaft, un staked/ missing plug where the shaft was drilled. Me I would remove the ripper if going in the rear cover. I would try to find a service manual, it will be priceless since it looks like you may have purchased it. It will save you hours of work and headaches.
the rings were hooked at the end gaps. No grooves were in the end caps. the rings were loose on the shaft on the rear most groove. Ive got the service manual. I'll look through it and go from there. I just wondered if the clutch pack could be redone without pulling the final drives and such? Thanks for the replies!
You can do a lot from the rear cover. If the front cover had to come off, engine side I would pull the hole trans out. Drain the trans oil, remove the two top shaft caps/ shims / rings. Remove the h/l shaft cover, remove the housing/ shims/ rings/ bearings and races. Remove the two small twelve point screws that hold the clutch inside the cover. Remove the nuts around the cover. You have to make some jack screws to pull the cover loose. Use a rubber faced hammer to bump the upper shafts in as you are jacking the cover off, while also bumping the h/l shaft. Find the two small quad seals that go on the h/l once the cover is removed and set aside. If the bearing slides off the upper shafts and stays in the cover it's ok, if they stay on the shaft, you will have to pull them off the shaft to remove the clutch pack and gear. Once cover is off the clutch packs and gears most of the time come off the shaft fairly easy, When replacing watch the shaft holes and clutch pack holes to install correct. If you remove the lower h/l shaft and clutches, reach up under it at the front and grab the pto shaft at the end and lift it out as a unit, try to keep it from sliding apart, saves some work. You will see the gears for the clutch packs and you have to unstack as needed to allow them to come off the shafts. For what your hoping for (possible seal/piston/snap ring issue on the reverse clutch) you need not worry about a final/trans removal. Just keep everything bumped forward so you don't end up with any discs or plates dropping. I would make a copy of the parts pages for the trans, lay everything out as you go for a easier install, you will spend some time removing that large cover gasket also, may need some spray gasket remover.