I recently purchased this case 1150c. My torque converter temps get into the red when I'm pushing hard. It seemed to be using fluid too. I noticed fluid running out when It is parked on an incline facing downhill. I brought it home and positioned it on an incline, pulled part of the belly pan and it appears to be leaking at the torque converter pump gasket. I see a supply hose and a pressure hose to this pump, so why is there fluid at that gasket? Could this be related to my temperature issues? I found a broken piece lodged near pump pressure line, but it does not seem to be from the base of the pump, that all feels complete.
The torque converter housing is filled with oil, it lubricates all the drive gears - the gasket stops it leaking out. There is a small roll pin fitted to the housing, it is very important to engage it with the small hole in the pump during fitment for correct alignment of the drive gears. This leak will not have any thing to do with your overheating problem. The small bit of casting you found looks like it may be off the main hydraulic pump mounting flange. It is mounted above the charge pump. What is the last picture of?? Suction hose at fitted to pump?? Transmission overheating can be caused by a number of reasons. air flow through the cooler/s is restricted by dirt/grass charge pump flow is low - not circulating enough oil internal oil leakage in the converter will not allow enough qty of oil flow to the oil cooler for it to be effective transmission clutch packs could be slipping - super heating the oil There are oil flow tests that can be carried out to confirm these symptoms, but they require the use of a flow meter. Carrying out a stall test, may help indicate some of the issues. A service repair manual will be a great asset.
What is that in the 2nd pic?
When I pulled the pump I found the internal of the connector hose had seemed to bubble up and is about 80 percent blocked! It does not appear to be the original hose and Im wondering if they may have used hose that could not handle oil.
CORRECT I was hoping that could be my problem. Seems like that would cause poor flow to the transmission which Im assuming could cause overheating. I did not notice any slipping but I was seeing pressures on the low side when pushing hard. I never was able to find where that piece came from. possibly it has been there since the pump has been replaced? The pump gasket was folded at the top and not sealing correctly. Could not have sealed since install, whenever that was.
That definitely will cause a problem with oil flow - fingers crossed!
Exactly!!
If the cost on a pump was reasonable I would out a new one in since I feel this one has been starved, but at $1800 for what appears to be a simple gear pump, Im going to try to run this one longer.
Price an aftermarket. Ide bet its half that price.
Who sells aftermarket ones?
Google your pump part number. I'm sure 2000 will pop up.
Good bet, they are available for $735 https://gulfsouthequip.com/product/r25586-case-1150d-crawler-transmission-charging-pump-new-non-oem/
Worth a look huh. You can do that with most parts on your machine.
I have had good dealings with Joseph industries for transmission gears. https://joseph.com/
While you have fluid drained from tranny you should check your converter cooling bypass valve it's the union looking fitting kind of under the converter and to the left, make sure it's not stuck open and not letting oil go trough cooler.
replacing the restricting hose seemed to fix that. Now the motor is overheating when pushed hard in the 100 degree heat we are having in Oklahoma, going to pull the water pump this evening and see if that is the issue.
Unless you eater pump the s leaking that shouldn’t be an issue. Check your radiator make sure it’s clean, inside and out and thermostats also.
I opened up the thermostats at the job site and there were none in it. filled the radiator and started it up, saw no movement i the radiator, even when it was revved up!
No thermostat could be a problem too. Not letting coolant stay in radiator long enough to cool.
Fan belts tight ? Is there any chance they could be glazed ? If they are, they will slip no matter how tight they are. Is there a possibility there is a bent fan blade ?
Might be worth looking in the pipe from the thermostats to the motor. My 1150D was over heating and one of the thermostats had broken off and was partially blocking the flow. I fished it out and ditched both thermostats and it runs good now.
you are right the water pump.is fine. There seems to be a baffle in the top of the radiator that kept me from seeing the flow. Cleaning radiator out real good and see how that does.
I'll try checking that in the morning. It looks like there is a bypass hose that let's the coolant skip the radiator. Do the thermostats block the flow through that when they open? Seems like I would need to block that to run it with no thermostats
I did tighten the belts at the jobsite, I thought I heard them squeal a little at full rev. If these machines run standard v belts then the pulleys are worn worse than I have ever seen! Fan looks OK
Are you going to have it boiled out by a professional ? Solder bloom on the tubes may be a contributing factor to the overheating also.
I dont know what I should do. Not even sure who does that kind of work around here.
I dont know to be honest mate. I didnt change anything other than removing the thermostats themselves. We were pulling a cutterbar with it and it would over heat in about an hour from cold and now itll run a 10 hour day at about three quarters up the temp gauge.
Anyone ever try blocking this hose when running with no thermostats?
Not too impressed with case. Bearings went out in idle and case does not sell it or the shaft!
What bearing in what the idle
I'm guessing your talking about the track frame idler? Most times when the bearings fail, the carriers & hub are damaged in the seal retaining area, so it is usually more cost efficient to buy a new idler. ......BTW - I don't think this will fix your cooling problem
Those aint water cooled?
yes track idler bearings. do you mean I can buy a new idler that will have everything in it, or do you mean a used one?
Industrial Tractor Parts in Broken arrow. 918-258-6580 They should have some aftermarkets on hand.