Hello new member fist post. I have a Case 1835 Diesel that I have owned for some 15 Years. Its been a good machine all I have done is change Oil and Filters, one drive Motor, and couple of Starter solenoids. When I got the machine the Hyds sounded terrible and the Oil looked even worse. I changed the Oil and Filters and the above Drive Motor. 15 Years later it still sounds as bad as ever, but stills runs and moves dirt. The Hyds always sounds as though they are cavitateing. The Oil always has some Foam on the Top of the Tank. Any ideas? Next Question. When I removed the old Drive Motor I kept it. It was not the original Case one its an aftermarket replacement. I realize that Drive Motor Parts are no longer available for the Case ones but what about the Aftermarket ones? Can I not just change out a Cartage in the Motor I have, rather than buying another complete Motor. Is there an Exchange program for the same? Thanx....
Hi Mar-Gun, I can't help with the drive motor, but I will tell you I've got an 1845B with terrible hydraulic noise. The previous owner said they'd always been that way. They whine under any load, but like yours it's a real workhorse in spite of sounding like it's going to come apart. Greg
My 1845 B is noisy as well. I suspect that it was run without the additive. I got some additive and put it in and it quieted things down quite a bit, though it is still noisy. One thing I found on reading the manual is that they are supposed to be run at 3/4 to full throttle. Once I did that it runs much better, more control, and much quieter.
Next Question. My 1835 with the diesel 188D Engine has always started 4 out of 5 times fine. The one time it won't start the Starter and Ring Gear are at War with each other making the most offal sounds. I always figured the Ring Gear had a bad spot and needed replacing. So 15 Years later now was the time. Pulled the Engine and Dug 20 gals of Grease and Dirt out of there replaced the rear seal, the ring gear and Motor mounts. I turned in my Starter ( which was also a rebuild) for a rebuild so now everything is new. Now it won't start at all. Either the Starter makes the same old Grinding sound or it engages the Ring Gear and just Jams and stalls out the Starter with out turning the Engine. Searching another Forum ( yesterdays tractor) I found somebody else that had the same issue, and said that there was a 9 and a 10 tooth version of the same Starter. With the 10 tooth'er having the jamming issues. Mine has 10 teeth. OK so has anybody else had this problem? Since a Rebuild Starter is some $400 exchange at the Case Dealer, my local Auto Electric shop can get one for $300, the new replacement ones I see on line for less than $200 sure look temping. They look to be a more modern gear reduction one. Anybody try one of those ?
Can you just buy the 9 toothed gear and install it in you starter? Not sure what make of stater you have but most are not that hard to disassemble. If what you have is a Delco 22MT I did some searching and found at least one place that lists a 9 tooth drive for that starter: http://www.amscovf.com/STARTER-DRIVE-9-T-CCW--DR-10MT-20MT-22MT-27MT-30MT-35MT-_p_221603.html If you can be sure this is what you want to try I'd give them a call if you don't have a good starter rebuild shop in your area. Note they list both clockwise and counter clockwise versions so be sure you know which you need. I see you are in Seattle, how about checking this outfit out? http://www.ballardelectric.com/be_contact.htm From their web site it looks like they could be a place to start. If you were near me I'd offer another location.
What I have is a Delco Remy. Its known as the " Big One". Now my problem is is that my old starter was a rebuild that came from a local shop some 15 years or more ago. They don't stock one so its comes from a where house in Portland Oregon. So the Numbers on it don't mean anything anymore because apparently when one of these are rebuilt parts get switched from one unit to the other, and new numbers stamped along the way. On another forum I found somebody who has a bad ring gear and the way he fixes it is to replace the Starter Gear every couple of Tanks of Fuel ! He's getting them from his local NAPA store but no part number provided. I have also found that there are at least two starters from case fro the 1835 188D Engines, but there is no mention as to there Gear Count 9-10 in there description. Just to make things interesting, I have now replaced the ring gear, and not knowing any of this I never bothered to place the new one on top of the old one to see if they were the same. It kinda sounds as though we need to throw all the Part Numbers and science away, and figure that most of them use a 10 tooth, but if that doesn't work try a 9 tooth. Interesting enough the Ballard Electric Co You suggested is some 2 blocks away from the where the Machine is, where I have worked for the last 40 years or so, and I had never herd of them till now !
I had the same problem with a 188D engine in my tractor.I took it to the local starter shop they said they could put a nine tooth drive on it,or sell me a brand new nine tooth Mitsubishi for $165 I had them change the drive it worked fine.Then two weeks later the one in my 450 dozer with the 188D went south,so I put in a new Mitsubishi It works great (faster) Both were nine tooth.
Problem solved. I pretty much spent the Day driving around and learning more than I ever wanted to know about Case Starters. I had the attention of 3 Parts guys at my local Case Dealer and one of them ( the oldest ) was pretty familiar with the mid 70's 580 CCK backhoes which used the 188D Engine. Although they all used the same Ring gear some of them used a 9 tooth and some a 10 tooth AC Delco Starter. Must of been due to Machining differences of the Block near as I can tell. Caused a lot of headaches back in the day, Most of the time You could use a 10 tooth but sometimes they needed a 9 tooth. In the Case Parts Book the Delco Starter 1107874 is the 9 tooth, I verified this myself. By the time the 1835 188D Engine came along it looks as though this had all been figured out and everything was 10 tooth. So then I went to the NAPA Distributor and they told me I they didn't sell a 9 tooth or any other parts for a starter, just the whole thing. Then I went to probably the biggest Delco distributor in the NW and talked to the guy who rebuilds them. The 9 tooth Delco Gear Drive is available for $130 plus labor, or they could order a generic one for $17. Then he pretty much told me I'd be better off with a Nippon Denso, I took this as a bad sign for Delco. When I got back to my original Auto Electrical Shop who sold me the re-man Delco We checked availability of the Delco 1107874, there book showed it as a 10 tooth, go figure. They let me trade in on a Denso. It wasn't there fault it didn't work the core I traded in was a 10 tooth. For what ever reason for the last 15 years I figure the starter ( which was not the original ) was just catching the leading edge of the ring gear and never fully engaged, and sometimes wouldn't do that. Just the pressure of the Solenoid was all that was needed. The Old Ring Gear had Dirt that was filling in between the teeth cause they were never used ! So with the new Ring Gear I installed this wouldn't work anymore. There is some possibility that my 1835 has a mid 70's engine ? So a Nippon Denso 02800-5884 12V 08P08 is the replacement for a 10 tooth Delco, which wouldn't work. Assured that this was the correct one for my app I had my doubts when it had some 14 or so teeth. None the less with a couple of extended Wires it bolted right up. Despite it being smaller its very close to the Fuel Tank but it dose clear. My Case now sounds like a modern machine with its new gear reduction starter. The Re-man Delco was $300, same for NAPA, and the Denso was $320 brand new with no core needed. I have seen Gear reduction starters on line for $187, but I assume they are clones of the Denso, and was told to stay away from a clone. A Re-man Denso is probably available, but with out a core to trade in it might not be worth it. Hope this helps the next guy who has the same issues.
my 1835b hyds were acting like yours, the main hyd pump needed replaced. later a drive motor lost a seal and the replacement I got came from a case dealer. they seemed to think there would be no problem getting any parts for that little loader, which I dearly love.. uses very little fuel. dealer that I went through was coleman equipment in bonner springs ks. better pricing than just about any other case dealer I have tried, too.
You must be at Salmon Bay Sand & Gravel. Know the area very well. Freemont Electric used to be another good source as well as Aurora Carburetor & Electric. Blanchard Electric is also a very good source for the area.
I think most of the noise is going to be coming from the right side drive motor, of which I have one on order and should expect to see some time soon. I will update the noise once I have replaced the Motor. I understand that the Machine came with Motor Oil in the Hyds with an anti foaming agent added. My machine had Hyd Oil in it when I got it, and I sometimes rent attachments to use with auxiliary hyds. The rental shop would blow a gasket if they thought I wasn't using Hyd Oil. I use what used to be called AW 46, or Mobile GTE 16m, which now has a new name for the same thing.
My name of Mar-Gun just happens to be the name of a boat tied up at Ballard Oil just to the west of Salmon Bay Gravel but the machines next Job will be at 51st and 14th ave which is on the other side of Salmon bay Gravel. Fremont Electric is long gone, its now CARQUEST Auto Parts. So is Aurora Carb and Electric its long gone its now one of the better Auto glass shops around. Blanchard is still around and that's who I talked to about the Delco Starter, however they are no longer a Delco distributor. Acme Electric is still around, and that's who I got the Starters from.
are we servicing the suction side filter under sear area on early35 &45 models
Well this project kinda ran away on me. I replaced the right side drive motor. I had replaced the Left one some 1200 hrs or so ago and no it never drove in a straight line since I did that one. The Hyd Noise is much quieter now, so most of the sound must of been coming from the slow motor. I also found that one of the discharge ports on the double pump was both striped out and cracked. I did my best to weld it up and re machine it but it still leaked. Un able to find a front cover for the Pump I ended up buying a new pump. The replacement was a little longer than the old one but it worked. Wile waiting for it to show up I went threw both Hydrostatic Pumps and replaced the O-rings as I thought I might have a drip from one of the Control Arms. Turns out these Motors are very easy to take apart and re seal. I can't for the life of me figure out how they get $1200 each to rebuild them. The machined parts in mine looked to be in excellent condition. New Control Shocks, Heim Joints a Hose or two and all new Filters. Spent some time and have the Hydro Valves adjusted for neutral pretty good much better than it has ever been before. So hopefully this is it for a wile and I can get it back to moving dirt.