Hello Gang..Newbie here... I have bunch different iron.. New Project today,1997 Case 1840 Just off lowbed...now tore apart..I see wierd Mark's,from possible washers/bolts..Cant tell if supposed have bolts here, or from inside? Can anyone assist with this pls? Also pair Elec soliends without wiring,,not sure there application?
The markal looks more like a pressure sensor/switch.
Switch ok then.thx... But I'm lil worried that 2 bolts may have sheared off? Pump.is also bolted underneath still..
Probably a low pressure warning switch that is supposed to light in the control panel when pressure is low to warn of pump failure or the likes, wonder why it is disconnected???
First off yes you are missing bolts and washers. Hard to tell from camera angle but pump may be rotated away from holes. Holes on either side should be level. Bolts and washers are taged red in above picture. Good place to look for parts info on Case 1840 is: https://partstore.caseih.com Helps to know your S/N. Also if planing on keeping this machine I would suggest checking online for a service manual, can't vouch for anyone in particular but do see them from $30.00 to around $100.00, might sound like a lot of money but if knowing the correct information saves you damaging one part it could pay for itself on one repair
Switch is backup alarm switch. One on reverse circuit of each pump.
I was right then!!!
As I recall they are wired in a series so both motors have to be in reverse to sound the back-up alarm. Something like this: If that makes sense!
Ooooo, that's gonna go to his head....
That explains why it's disconnected.
I like when operators do something to alarm and those start sounding like Muscovy drakes!!!
Nope. Wired in parallel. Either reverse circuit sees pressure, backup alarm activates.
I don’t think it is pressure switch, this pumps has mechanical controls and pilot circuit not used.
I think I ran the number and case parts called it a pressure switch....
Maybe servo piston pushes the oil and activates it.
I've got a new switch in tool drawer on my truck. Usially, they stick on, leaving alarm on constant. Only have (had) 4 Case 1845 with same pumps. I can assure you that that switch is for a backup alarm.
That's awesome. Many thks.yes does possibly appear vertical bolts in, but your diaphragm shows horizontal into bell housing..guess I'm pulling pump.soon ..i have small old well used manual..new 1is on wish list too. Thks bunch for all info
Well that makes sense now..it has funny after market micro switch,now on shaft when you push levers backwards.with a workin alarm too.. Appreciate info,thk u
Next weekend I get to try replace the serpentine belt...Any one have short cut secrets to share? Goin be lota fun tryin to pull crankshaft pump, squeeze belt in..starter & alternator goin for quick rebuild,so have few days to complete. You guys rock,thx!
Well now that someone has posted a wiring diagram in another thread here I see I have the polarity backwards. Seems Case ran the +(hot) wire to the alarm and then the -(ground) for the alarm is by way of the two pressure switches. But the general idea is the same, both switches have to be closed to make alarm sound.
Does not look parallel in this diagram: See full schematic in thread : HeavyEquipmentForums
One thing I'd say is make a sketch before removing the belt! Might try removing the four bolts that hold the coupler on the crank pulley and slide it back on the pump enought to let you work the old belt out and the new one in.
Great ideas...I be on that Sat mornin.thx bunch
Better still, snap a picture, with yer phone!
Well not a "Belt and Suspenders" guy on everything but sometimes a sketch can show something a picture doesn't and the opposite can be true. So I'd lean towards doing both if there is any doubt!
Yip good idea 99... This routing is easiest layout I've every worked on,crank,fan,alt..and tensioner. Of which only need 3/8 ratchet.Gotta love them Cummins. Plus with the rad out...its all like open,better than my work bench! I'm so not lookin forward to pulling the pump,tryin wiggle that apart Thanks again you all ,for wisdom you have shared
So you were 100 correct, bolts were both broken, the last mechanical repair@ the dealer, dude used Grade 12 bolts..everywhere...;( I got real lucky,was able to slide pump back enough to remove plate, as I was drilling for my easy out, the broken studs.....walked right out, while process took less than hour & bonus I never touched hyd hose or lost any fresh oil Thx for your wisdom. She's all done.
Glad it worked out, thanks for the feed back on what fixed it!
4th pic is L side, all looks ok.
Well that's not good!
May I pls ask your opinion why that would happen? I have checked for any other wear,cracks,or outstanding issues...I cant figure out why...? Everything looks in gr8 condition,sprockets,housing,etc. Even bearing on otherside.. Thx u
Hard to say from here, best I could say is check everything over close on reassembly to make sure everything is in the right place. Did you say this machine was new to you? Could be someone who did not know or care how it went together was in there last.
No one EVER greases that shaft support bearing, (Except us of course) That + moisture in chaincase.
So as I was checking the L side bearing, seems dry. I know the last mechanic that did all the work, fancy shinny trk, & clean hands...thus no grease on the bearings...so may just replace both sides.Easy job.I will take pry bar & check pump also..appreciate your help thks. I also just drilled & tap the inspection covers,so after new gaskets & sealer, I can add oil easy if needed. Appreciate your help
I just had brain thought...bet I can take another 1inch pipe plug,drill & tap it for grease nipple...add this task to every service..long as I dont loose the new plug....
My big worry was I may have missed overlooking something else,that caused bearing failure ,now I'm really leaning towards poor mechanical install.& No grease! I have found some terrible patches on this..almost had to rewire the entire machine..multi butt splices & different color wire on run.etc..just wild stuff.& the grade 12 bolts..thx all for help. The wire diagram was huge help too
Added another step to every machine service
Well that's not far off the 1845C: Main difference is your machine has the hydraulic motor directly drive the chains to the axles where the 1845C has a gear on that shaft # 20 above and a third chain in each side that the hydraulic motor drive by a third chain in each side. Note that item #21 is a grease fitting!
You rock thxs
Regarding the butt splices, One of the worst problem areas on 1845C/1840 was the wiring harness connections between the rops and the engine, designed to "unplug" when rolling the rops forward for access, 100's of start problems seeing one person wiggling the harness while the other turns ignition switch, also many instances of jumping at the starter DANGEROUS PROCEDURE. Sooooooooooo, the guy that put all those butt connectors in place might have done you a GREAT FAVOR!!!!!
Many thks sir.. Yes your so right...so,I re-did almost all the harness..update few plugs too. Used soldering, shrink tube,wire loom and snap ties.Die-electric grease on plugs. Shes all good now for another 20 yrs Night switch & fuel solenoid kill also.Even mechanical water temp. I also was lucky enough to Just get orginal parts and service manuals. With all the factory updates. Really appreciate all the wisdom you wiser ppl share.Many thks
Hi Tuck I know this is an old thread but those parts from the hub were they dealer bought or after market in having the same issue, thanks
Yes,I bought direct from my Case dealer..i also drilled out the 1" inspection plug,& installed grease fitting
You wont belive this, buddy put 50hrs on my machine..I just got it back.did quick check up...Right side pump ,the new Gr8 bolt broken... I cant fiqure out why? All other bolts appear in place and tight...very puzzled here