I have a 1992 1840 case uni loader i bought on an auction. the machine runs great and is in decent shape over all. I changed my hydraulic fluid and filter with 10/30 oil as per spec but the machine does not lift hardly any weight only a empty bucket basically also i have to idle it up to lift with any speed any help would be great
First thing I might want to check was if say with boom all the way down if you can roll the bucket back when full of dirt and have it pick weight that way easy? Just trying to get a feel if the pump is good but the hoist cylinders might be passing oil due to bad seals on one or more pistons.
the tilt seems to be ok I will test that tomorrow morning
Also, if the tilt is OK, make sure the lift spool at the control valve is getting full travel. You may need to check main relief pressure also.
I'm just guessing the original poster does not have gauges and fittings to hook them up so just trying to think of very basic tests to try and narrow down the problem. How about this: When rolling back on the bucket all the way to the end of travel does it sound like the engine is working hard and the same when rolled all the way in the tilt direction? Next how about when putting down pressure on bucket with boom controls and when boom is run all the way up to top.
Jason; Have you made sure that the floor pedal for the aux hydraulics is in the "neutral" position? SimS
Yes, make sure you double check this as it wouldn't be the first time I have ran into similar issues when people have uniloaders
I didn’t make it to the shop today to test it I made sure the auk was in neutral Also when tilting forward or back the engine doesn’t struggle at all That seems to function properly I do have to idle it up all the way through to tilt with any kind of speed
So If I'm now understanding how it's acting every thing you try to do with the hydraulics a very weak and slow? Don't like to jump to conclusions, but it is starting to sound like a bad pump. Before replacing it you might need to find someone local who can confirm that is the problem. Not sure I want to be spending your money from this far away not knowing how experienced you are with hydraulics.
Also...... did it work any differently before you changed the oil for the hydraulics? and how noisy is it, does the noise change when moving the controls to lift/tilt?
Yes any even seemingly minor bits of information you can offer can help. Very often a problem that someone might notice if there in person and be able to point to the problem in seconds can be very difficult if not impossible to diagnose by typed words. Maybe see if you can make a video of machine running and you trying to move the bucket and boom at different engine speeds. Then post that to YouTube and put a link in this thread. Many times something you might not notice will jump right out at someone more familiar with the machine.
ill try and get more info as soon as i can its been about 10 degrees here the past several days the problem is i haven't had the machine very long and have not been able to fully test it im leaning toward a bad pump but just really hopping for something simple im missing
If you want to get into testing things yourself you'll need a few things... I got some of these cheap test kits from china... they run around 60-100 bucks delivered...they work... you will probably need some extra adapters for the uniloader... I'm not sure what mine had for testing ports https://www.ebay.com/itm/XZTK-60-Ex...:oZIAAOSwR~5aC567:rk:16:pf:0&autorefresh=true
So I’m going to replace the pump on this machine any suggestions on where to buy And on install
Ask around locally. That's how I found the guy in Baltimore, that I use. Once you know the model# and serial #, of the pump, that's half the battle. You might try surpluscenter.com, sometimes I have lucked out, and they have just what I want. Other times, not so much. If you want info on the guy, in Baltimore, I can hook you up...
ok a bit of an update I decided to replace the service pump or equipment pump, the one under the radiator that supplies the loader valve. anyway I have a service manual and following the instructions removed bolts and it should just pull off the motor but it seems to be stuck on. I even tried to use a chain and porta power to pull it off but no go. so is there something I am missing? I also ordered the gauges to test pressure but they haven't come in yet so I am just proceeding with the pump as I am confident that is the problem.
well looks like the pump is driven off the front pulley of engine with two bolts holding the pump to the mounting bracket and then there are four bolts that hold the drive coupling to the pulley. Not sure if you can remove the four coupling bolts with the pump in place. It is possible that the splines on the pump are rusted into the splines in the coupling. I'd soak that area down with penetrating oil for a couple days and try working it around some to break it loose. Coupling is red in the drawing below:
Or the splines may have worn down and spun... if this coupling is like some it may have the pump splines stick in past the coupler splines so when it does 'spin' it will create a ring burr not allowing the pump shaft to retreat.... I don't see any king of retaining system in the blowapart kshansen posted but did you rotate the coupling around and check very carefully for roll pins or circlip inside the coupling?
No, there are no clips or pins. Once you pull the 2 bolts, it should just slide out, if the splines are not rusted or spun.
Look and observe, still, though. just because the factory didn't pit a pin in, don't mean someone else followed the rules...
Some good advise there Get the area in question clean... use a wire brush, solvent,etc... like Dave says you never know what someone else did to 'fix' things before you got to it I remember an old case 580ck a guy wanted me to look at cause the hydraulics lost power while he was using it... turns out the pump/coupler setup very similar to what the OP has had worn the splines off and was spinning but still had a little bit of grab to it so the hydraulics would still work but no power at all just an increase in 'noise' when you moved a lever to operate the bucket. So when I finally get things apart to access the pump I show him whats wrong and get prices for a new pump and he tells me "The pump that's in there is still pumping right" I tell him yeah, it's just the shaft is slipping.... so then he want me to weld it into the coupler Thankfully for the next guy trying to fix things I convinced him not to do it!!! Could I have done it??? sure. would it have worked? probably, but when you have to fix it down the road it will be harder and cost more.
You would probably burn the seal and it would leak like a sieve!!!
I would suggest that you replace your belts as well, hate to see you have to pull the pump again for a weak one giving out soon. If my memory is right I think the pump has to come off with the front engine mount so the engine has to be jacked up high enough to let the rubber mount to clear the frame.
Just for fun is there any chance of the original poster to post a couple pictures of this machine?
I'm not the OP, but here's a the same setup on mine if it helps.
That's about what I was thinking it looked like. Looks like the four bolts that hold the coupler to the front pulley should be accessible to get them out with a little effort. And if coupler won't fit through the hole in mount just remove the mount and work on it off machine.
LOL maybe, but I've welded on assembled pumps before. It's all about heat management. Will be interesting to see what the OP has going on to make it stick so hard.
Ok finally have an update the spline was just totally rusted solid so I ended up having to remove pump and motor mount all in one piece and then cutting the shaft with a grinder. I installed the new pump today and everything works perfect. so thank you all for the great help
Good to hear your machine is back in working condition